How much does it cost to get started?

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86er
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How much does it cost to get started?

Post by 86er »

Folks - I am looking for realistic data to present to groups of new shooters/hunters. What does it cost to get into shooting, including all the necessary accessories? What do you consider essential? What does it cost to get into hunting? Please include and mention leverguns specifically and name other types of rifles if you have something in mind. Figure the inital cost to get up and running and the cost over the first year to accumulate other must-haves.

For example:
Shooting - New Henry .22 standard model $270 with tax; brick of ammo $35; earplugs $4; eye protection $20; targets (commercial) $12/pack. So about $345 up front. Later that year - hunting license $100; replace ammo; $35; cleaning kit $30; case $40. About $200 more over the year.

Give me your ideas - both shooting and hunting set-ups, new or used equipment. Something realistic to show interested people.

Thanks!
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shooter
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by shooter »

Joe,

Are these people like me and looking for the most cost effective way of getting started? Or do prices matter at all? Minus the gun, which I believe should be quality, you can get into shooting pretty cheap if you stay away from premium ammo or reload, although the initial cast for reloading will be more.

For example, a cost effective way to get set up for both shooting and hunting:

Marlin or Winchester 30-30/$400, Box of Federal ammo at Walmart/ $11.97, pack of foam ear plugs/$3.00, shooting glasses/$10, hunting license/$60, range membership/$10 for a card + $10 for every visit, targets/$5.00 a pack.

You can get set up for quality shooting and hunting for less than $500. I didn't count the camo, but IMO, it isn't absolutely necessary to wear camo, especially if hunting from a box blind. I won't get into cost of reloading, etc. If you're talking about a lease and decent cool weather camo, I'd throw in at least an extra $1500-$2000 depending on location and going rates for leases.
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brno602
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by brno602 »

Well for big game hunting I would say you need a good pair of boots that will keep your feet warm and dry in weather from +10°c to -30°c, plan on at least 200.00+ for the boot's, next would be 2 good knifes cost I don't really know I have not bought a knife for 20 years but you get what you pay for. Also a small bone saw comes in real handy much better than a small axe and less messy only around $ 30.00 for the saw.
So much depends on what kind of hunting where you are hunting and how long you will be hunting do you need camping gear?
If your Moose or Elk hunting and your car is a Honda Civic you will need a truck too :lol:
But just to get started in shooting does not cost much a used .22, cleaning kit, ammo, targets (you can print them for free off the net)
You could start shooting with $250.00
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by brno602 »

I thought I would make another post to this just thinking about someone I work with.
Last year he went hunting got into it all by himself. He had a truck and camper but bought a Quad $8000.00 then a Rifle a savage Bolt on sale for $500.00 a bushnell trophy scope $230.00 3 boxes of .270 ammo $40.00 each and spent over $800.00 in fuel driving around.
I have to hand it to him he tried hard will have to take him out so he can see some game and maybe fill a tag.
He never hunted before and out of the blue thought he would, he never field dressed a animal before.No one in his family hunts and he never had a teacher, he took Hunter ed and a firearms coarse that's it! He bought all the tags he could get WT, Mule, Elk. Mule Deer are draw in most of Southern AB and only a few Zones that are far away have a general season.
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by adirondakjack »

I would assume a person has halfway decent clothes for where they live. My kid started hunting deer with a used Marlin 1894 (I already had one, but bought it used years ago) that on today's market would be worth about $350.) I bought him boots for $100. License was like $29. Figure a $25 knife from wally world and a box of .44 manglems, (if we didn't reload and I hadn't made him a custom knife), and he would be ready to rock-n-roll for like $550, if he had a coat and gloves (he did.)

Somebody without access to a good used gun selection could get a low end savage or an NEF single shot for under $300......
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El Chivo
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by El Chivo »

I don't know how much it costs but if you are getting those kinds of inquiries, you might consider offering "packages" which include everything, and close the sale right there. A great gift for the All-American kid.
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Pete44ru
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by Pete44ru »

Venison = $3,278.52/lb, rabbits a little less. ;)

.
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horsesoldier03
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by horsesoldier03 »

IMO, if someone was interested in hunting and was a friend, I would offer one of my guns that I have just for the purpose of loaning. Old Marlin .22 model 60 or JC Higgins Bolt 12 ga. All they need to worry about is their license and shells if they go through more than a box that I would offer for them to find out if they like it.

to answer your question, I would suggest $50 to start if you help them along a little.

If they are doing everything on there own, they could probably poor boy it for about $300 if they found a good buy on the gun
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Marlin32
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by Marlin32 »

This would be for a youth, to start out deer hunting:
Marlin 30/30 $400 (no scope, at young age, wouldn't need it)
$5-6 boxes of ammo @ $15/box. $75-80
Good pair of boots $50-80
Hunting jacket or coat (is cold here in Neb, may be a sweat shirt in TX?) $50-90
Orange Vest and Cap $20
License and tag $25-50
Good buck knife or KaBar $35-65
Total is around $700

Just to get a person involved in shooting would be less, cost of gun, ammo, and ear plugs.

To get someone into Bird Hunting would be about the same as above, Shotgun, a BPS would be a bit more than the Marlin, but a single shot will do, and that you can get for $150

Need a hunting vest, $25-65 bucks depending on how fancy you want to get.

To start shooting a shotgun, bare minimum, single shot $150, ammo $5/box and 10 cent ear plugs. Done. You are shooting.
Pisgah
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by Pisgah »

What it costs to "get in to" shooting or hunting is entirely dependent on what type of shooting/hunting you are interested in and where you live. Take big-game hunting (which in the US usually means deer hunting). Where I live, $50 will get me a statewide hunting/fishing license plus big game permit and game management land permit. This gives me access to close to a million acres of hunting land, thousands of acres of which are located within a 20-minute drive of my house. A beat-up but serviceable Marlin 336 can still be found in area pawn shops for no more than $200, often quite a bit less, and WalMart has plenty of .30-30 ammo for less than $20 a box. Hunting clothing - what's that? Camo - who needs it? Weather around here is moderate year 'round. Yes, it can get a bit chilly and damp in the fall and winter, but no one "needs" $200 boots or GoreTex camo clothing. If your closet doesn't already hold suitable clothes, $20 spent at a thrift shop will outfit you just fine.

I think many folks get discouraged because they believe all the hype marketing that surrounds the shooting sports. High-dollar, high-tech equipment and clothing, expensive vehicles, hunting guides, etc., etc., may all be nice, but they are rarely, if ever, really necesssary.
RKrodle
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by RKrodle »

Pete44ru wrote:Venison = $3,278.52/lb, rabbits a little less. ;)

.
:lol: That's pretty close to right.
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Griff
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by Griff »

Pete44ru wrote:Venison = $3,278.52/lb, rabbits a little less. ;)
I'ma thinkin' that when my wife did that calculation she was pretty close to that number over the course of 2 deer and 5 years of CA hunting. And rabbits were a LOT less! :twisted: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by AJMD429 »

This is a GOOD IDEA for a thread topic!

I have a 'newbie shooting course' that takes about four hours, and I've been thinking about posting the course, and the ammo typically gone through, after I total up the cost estimate. With the price of ammo, many would-be participants offer to pay for what they'll use, and it isn't practical for them to just buy a few rounds of each gun they'll shoot.

I'll mull over and post some on it soon.
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Chas.
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by Chas. »

What'cha huntin' - quail or grizzley. Necessary equipment would be very different.
madman4570
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by madman4570 »

Have em take a Hunter Safety Course ($18 up here)
Get them a New H&R/NEF Pardner 20ga Modified ($100) I like Single Shots for newbies.
Get them started shooting some of your empty beer cans and then go to a single skeet thrower.
The skeet(clay bird thing gets em hooked on shooting)
After they demonstrate safe gun handling and can shoot cans easily and get some of the clay birds they are ready for small game(rabbits/squirrels/birds) license $20


So you have-------------------example in Pa
Gun--------NEF/H&R 20ga ----$107
(4) 25rd boxes of 20ga---------$36
Hunter safety Course-------$18
Hunting license--------$20
ear plugs--$4
shooting googles---$10
Orange hat/cheaper vest----$15
MTM EZ1130 19" EZ Throw Clay Target Thrower $13
Box of 100 clay pigeons-----$20
Nylon Soft Gun case----$14
Cleaning kit----$15

-----------------------------------------Total-------------$272

let em hunt big game the following year after first becoming good on small game. :wink:

Walmart has everything up here!
Normal clothes/boots or even walking shoes can work with vest/cap if absolutely need be.


Also the person could buy say a new H&R Handi in like a 7mm-08 for $230 then cost of add $74
for the shotgun barrel either 12 or 20ga(that includes shipping gun to H&R and labor cost for them to fit other barrel.(now you have a new rifle and shotgun)

Single shots are safest and makes them always think make the first shot count!
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by Hobie »

I guess you've about got it right. One MIGHT need a place to shoot. However, I have to admit I never CARED about the cost. I just spend the money or don't as I can or can't afford to. I won't stop shooting, reading about shooting, etc...
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TedH
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by TedH »

I thought Jeff Foxworthy explains it pretty well. :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJa8kxPfPoU
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madman4570
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by madman4570 »

Hobie wrote:One MIGHT need a place to shoot. However, I have to admit I never CARED about the cost. I just spend the money or don't as I can or can't afford to. I won't stop shooting, reading about shooting, etc...
+1 :wink:
rjohns94
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by rjohns94 »

I think I took my first deer with a topper in 12 gauge. I paid $80 for it. In virginia, u can use buck shot, and i think the ammo was $5. License wasn't much. I had the clothes. The topper 12 gauge is a great all around game getter. Extra barrels could reduce the cost of shooting and plinking. Doesnt take much. My next several deer were all taken with a long bow and wooden arrows. In fact, I hunted exclusively with that for combo for 6 years. A black powder rifle can be built from a kit and fed rather inexpensively. A smootbore can act as shotgun and rifle with ball. You can find them for $300 or so, or the skies the limit. All depends. A used .22 and a brick of ammo is dirt cheap.
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by Streetstar »

I think how much it costs depends partially on the goal --- as shooting and hunting can definitely be separate endeavors. I'll base my answer on new equipment that is widely available from a sporting goods or outdoor type store. Obviously a ton of money can be saved with secondhand stuff

I have an entry level Henry .22 I use to set up "shoot house" type scenarios with multiple targets and different shooting positions. It is a blast ! (no pun intended) --- The little gun is also a perfect plinker to have beside a pond as well. The thing is great out of the box, needs nothing but ammo , earplugs and targets and is relatively quiet.

I pair it with my Single Six to run mock "Cowboy Action" type drills at my range -- when nobody is around of course. Total outlay for the rifle, 2 bricks of .22 LR's, earplugs, and a couple of boxes of clay targets and maybe a small spinner target would be around $375 plus $30 worth of cleaning equipment -- factor in a couple hundred more dollars for a Marlin 39, but i dont really like the yard long barrels that i've seen on most of them -- so $400 to get rockin' or 600 with a Marlin 39


If i want to put tiny holes in paper, I would start with one of Marlin's heavy barrel bolt action repeaters (I use a tricked out 10/22, but i don't recommend a semi-auto for a brand new shooter), I have seen these in the $300 - 350 range and a "rifle appropriate" target scope such as a 12x fixed power BSA would cost another $150 with mounts and rings --- more for a variable ---- some shooting bags and a modestly priced tripod rest or Harris bi-pod would be a good addition for a target setup, then you need a target carrier (make your own or find an old real estate sign) --- $600 to get started with style

Hunting setup --- well, either one of the above .22's will work for squirrels (although a dedicated 12x target scope would not work for small game) ,


but for larger game,

Since this is a levergun site, i will recommend the Marlin 336 --- $350-375 new (I love Winchesters, and a later model 94 can be found in this price range easily too ) --- I think Marlin's stock open sights are pretty poor, so i would budget 50-75 bucks for a better set of open sights, possibly an aperture type, but if you hunt a lot in low light, the Marlin can mount an optic easilly and still look sleek.
For more open country, a Stevens or Savage bolt rifle in .270 or .308 can be had for low coin (less than the levergun ) , but will also need an optic in most cases -- again, roughly $500 for a complete , new rifle with a decent scope (the new Redfields look perfect at 140-150 bucks) , sling, a few boxes of ammo-- so i would guess a $600 cash outlay to start hunting with new stuff from a sporting goods store

Thats strictly for firearms costs plus a couple boxes of ammo and enough cleaning equipment to basically maintain it ----
----- Doug
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by AJMD429 »

Here's a 'handout' I printed up for patients and drug reps and other people I encounter who ask about "getting started" with gun ownership and shooting...
It obviously has MY 'biases' but could be modified in content or concept if it would help your purposes


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

So you want to buy a gun...? Here’s some suggestions:

BEFORE buying a gun, however, get:
  • a couple pairs of hearing protectors,
    shooting glasses, and
    an appropriate-sized gun safe (sized to be useful for other household valuables as well).

BUDGET about the same amount for an initial stock of ammunition as you pay for the gun to shoot it with. A gun without ammunition is a very expensive paperweight.

First Handgun - .357 Magnum Ruger GP100
(alternatives - .357 Ruger Blackhawk, .44 Mag or .45 Colt Ruger Redhawk, Ruger SP 101)
This is the first* gun, because if you could only have ONE gun, it would be one which you could use to protect yourself (by carrying concealed), your home (it is portable and powerful), and even to hunt with if needed. The Rugers are sturdier than any other common brand, and easy to find at gun stores. Get a 4" barrel for one an adult male can conceal with a bit of effort, or a 3" if easier concealment is needed. Get a 6" barrel if concealment is not at all likely, as the longer the barrel, the less noise and recoil. You can shoot .38 special in a .357, and it will recoil less, generally cost less, and work pretty well, if you are still ‘learning to shoot’; use the .357 Mag loads when you are more experienced or need more power. The Blackhawk is a larger, ‘single action’ revolver like the ‘cowboy’ guns, and is more for field or hunting use, but some like the way they handle better. The .44 Magnum or .45 Colt guns are also larger, and not for the inexperienced, nor as easy to conceal. At the other end of the size spectrum, the Ruger SP-101 is a smaller, five shot (vs. six) revolver which is the easiest to conceal, but generally regarded as ‘unpleasant’ to shoot, whether with .38 Special or .357 Magnum loads.

* If you haven’t shot much, or have a family member who needs to learn - STRONGLY consider a Rimfire Handgun that is similar to your Centerfire Handgun above. Since factory ammunition will cost $0.05 or less per shot vs. $0.50 or more per shot, AND since it takes maybe 500 shots fired to be really comfortable handling and shooting a gun, you’ll save enough money to pay for the cost of a basic .22 Handgun very quickly. Learning to shoot a centerfire handgun without lots of experience shooting a rimfire handgun is like learning to ride a motorcycle without first having ridden a bicycle; it can be done, but just isn’t as easy, or as safe.

First Rifle - .357 Magnum Marlin 1894
(alternatives - .357 Magnum Rossi Puma, .44 Mag .45 Colt Marlin 1894 or Rossi Puma)
This is the second gun, because it uses the same ammunition as your first one, simplifying issues of supply, and offers an easier-to-use yet less-concealable firearm to keep at home, or use for hunting or target practice. It is not ‘intimidating’ looking (so less likely to be banned, or raise neighbor’s eyebrows), and yet is fully as able to stop ‘bad guys’ as an AR-15, unless you really anticipate dozens descending on you at once. In addition, in contrast to most AR-15 type guns, the .357 Mag (or .44 Mag or .45 Colt) guns you now have can use a wide variety of ammunition in terms of power and even quality, and still function reliably. The ammunition is among the easiest to reload, as well, with equipment often costing less than a box of ammunition. Buy a Williams FP sight for the gun (easy to mount on the Marlin with only a screwdriver, the Rossi’s require drilling and tapping - gunsmith work); a scope is generally not that necessary, and hard for novices to get used to, and the ‘open’ sights which come with the gun are also difficult for the novice to use or adjust. The Williams FP is easy to adjust and easy to use, and once sighted in, you can remove the ‘aperture’ for a ‘ghost ring’ rear sight effect that will enable both fast and accurate shooting.

If you’ve bought ‘new’ guns, you have probably spent about $1,200 now, but you have GREAT guns.

First Rimfire - .22 LR Ruger 10/22
(alternatives - .22 LR Marlin 39A, Henry, or Ruger 96/22, 77/22; or other semiauto .22 LR’s)
This gun would be your third gun, a ‘rimfire’, which uses non-reloadable ammunition casings, that are far less expensive to shoot. Ammunition is not very powerful (although still lethal), not very noisy, and is so compact that 200 rounds take up about the same space as two decks of cards. It is a gun made for practice, since it is inexpensive and easy to shoot, yet perfectly capable of use to control pests in the garden, for instance, and in a pinch, self or home defense. The Ruger 10/22 semiauto, 96/22 lever action, and 77/22 bolt action guns all can use up to 50-round magazines, vs. the 10-round ones they come with. Semiautos fling empty brass out, which reloaders dislike, but this doesn’t matter with the non-reloadable .22 LR, and sometimes rapid followup shots could be important, with a low power cartridge like the .22 LR. An advantage of the lever action Ruger, Marlin, or Henry is that they will work very similarly to your ‘main’ .357 Mag lever action gun, facilitating safe and accurate shooting, and easy transition from your practice and plinking gun to your hunting and home-defense one. For sights, consider another Williams FP for whatever .22 LR rifle you get, or if you like, a scope of the ‘red-dot’ variety or the ‘magnification’ type. Laser sights aren’t often that practical, but you can even try one of those - they are helpful sometimes for training.

Second Rimfire - .22 LR Ruger Mark II
(alternatives - .22 LR Ruger Single Six, many other .22 LR semiauto or revolvers)
This would be your fourth gun, completing a second ‘pair’ of rifle and pistol in the same chambering. It is likewise a good practice gun, and while not the ‘one-shot-stopper’ that is best for self-defense, it does give a second household member the potential for a concealed carry firearm in a pinch. Again, the semiautomatic has more ‘firepower’, but the revolvers are going to be better for gaining familiarity through practice with a gun similar to your ‘main’ .357 Mag self-defense revolver. See notes above*

At this point, if you’ve been buying new guns, you’ve spent about $1,700 total. You have not only the ‘basics’, but a couple ‘extra’ or ‘training’ guns, which you may in fact find you enjoy shooting more than your ‘main’ guns, due to the quieter cartridge, lesser recoil, and much less expensive ammunition.

*** *** *** At this point you have all the ‘Basics’ covered...! *** *** ***


Find a good place to shoot, whether it be a commercial indoor or outdoor range, conservation club, or friend who lives in a rural area, and go shooting. If you’re a novice, find a serious instructor (not one who likes to show off their macho skills, etc.) who will help you get started safely, sight in your guns, and gain confidence. If possible, shoot your rimfire guns first.

Use a bench if possible, to rest your gun-holding hands on (or a padded gun-rest), just to get started.

Use PAPER targets at first, pretty close up (15' for handgun and 30' for rifle isn’t too close), so you can SEE where you're MISSING, vs. just knowing that you're missing the pop-can, but not knowing in which direction (and therefore just wasting ammunition, and NOT learning). Later, you may want the ‘fun’ of appropriately-sized metal ‘flip-up’ targets, or the occasional pop can full of water, etc. - just clean up your mess when finished.

Learn where your guns hit (it may not be where you aim), and once you find out, either adjust your shooting style, or adjust the gun’s sights, so your sights show you where your shots will be hitting.

It is quite possible to take a man or woman or mature child, who has never shot any type of gun, and within a few hours, teach them to safely handle and shoot even ‘heavy hitters’ like a .44 Magnum or .30-06 well enough to consistently hit a five-gallon bucket at 50 yards.

The secret is starting them from a bench, with a rest, with hearing protectors, and with a rimfire rifle, using a red-dot sight. Then they gradually move to rimfire handguns, then low-powered centerfire rifles and handguns, then medium-powered ones, then finally the high-powered ones.

Beyond the Basics - Here are some other firearms you will want to consider...

Backup Gun - .22 LR/Mag North American Arms Pug
(alternatives - other ultra-compact .22 Mag or LR guns)
This one is mentioned, merely as an example of an ‘inside-the-bra’ or ‘hideout’ type ultra-concealable, if not powerful, handgun. The .22 LR is commoner ammunition, but as a ‘backup’ gun for self-defense, getting the extra cylinder which enables it to shoot .22 Magnum ammunition would be a good idea. The idea of such a gun is that on days you may be naive enough or careless enough to leave your ‘main’ self-defense firearm home instead of on your person, the much lighter ‘Pug’ type gun might be likelier to be taken with you on that errand you thought was safe. For the average person whose primary concern is not getting raped in the parking lot, this may be the most practical, if not impressive, other gun to own.

Shotgun - 12 gauge Mossberg 500
(alternatives - 20 gauge Mossberg 500, 12 or 20 gauge Remington 870)
Shotguns are very versatile, able to fire one projectile, or a few to several dozen small pellets. It is NOT true that you can just ‘aim in the general direction’ and hit your target, as the pellets do not spread out very far apart until rather far away, but certainly if you wanted to hunt birds, you’d need one. The power is awesome, as well, in terms of a home-defense gun, but many people find the recoil intimidating. A 20-gauge may be better for novices for that reason, and ammunition is widely available. Other gauges, like 16, 28, or “.410" have many limitations in ammunition availability; if you absolutely need a very low-recoil shotgun, a “.410" will do, and they definitely are lethal, in terms of home-defense, when used at rooms-length distances. In some states, hunting deer is not legal with a rifle, but you can use a shotgun with an ordinary or a special ‘rifled’ barrel, and single-projectile ‘slugs’ designed for that purpose. The closest other gun on this list would be the “.45-70 Guide Gun”, which isn’t designed for multiple-pellet loads, but has a similar power level able to stop something BIG if need be - even a bear.

Bear Gun - .45-70 Marlin Guide Gun
(alternatives - .444 Marlin XLR, .45-70 Thompson Center Encore Rifle)
This is also an ‘optional’ firearm - covering the end of the spectrum where you want to shoot a really heavy bullet, which can be vital if you need to stop a really big critter, or want to make a really big hole. Reloaded ‘light’ ammunition can be used for much lighter game, if desired. The ‘Guide Gun’ will be far more accurate than most shotguns if you want to hunt or make a precision shot out past 100 yards, and the shotgun will be more useful to most people as a ‘home defense’ firearm, or to hunt birds. Most gun afficionados will have both a pump shotgun, and a lever-action rifle. The Encore rifle is a single-shot firearm worth mentioning, in that you can buy extra barrels to shoot nearly any cartridge in existence, including .22 LR, 12 and 20 gauge shotgun shells, .357 Magnum, .223 Remington, .308 Winchester, .45-70 Government, and so on - even muzzleloading ‘black-powder’ barrels (which need no brass cartridge case). As a single-shot, the Encore is not a great ‘home-defense’ firearm, but is capable of great accuracy, and versatility; one ‘gun’ with multiple barrels enables a wide variety of hunting or target shooting, for instance.

(So-called) ‘Assault’ Rifle - .223 Rem AR-15, various brands
(alternatives - .223 Ruger Mini-14, .308 Win Springfield M1-A or Garand, AR-10)
These are often (inaccurately) termed ‘assault’ rifles, but basically are high-capacity carbines and rifles which are typically very durable, and in the case of the ‘AR’ family of guns, very MODULAR, meaning you can buy just the ‘stripped lower’ (about $130, and legally constituting the ‘gun’ part), and add mix-or-match stocks, barrels, and so forth to create anything from a short-barreled, folding-stock ‘carbine’, to a heavy-barreled, long-stocked ‘rifle’, often with extreme accuracy. The Ruger Mini-14 is more ‘traditional’ (like the levergun, less ‘threatening’ so raising fewer eyebrows), and is not ‘modular’, but is a handy little rifle to shoot .223 ammunition in. A Mini-14 version is also available in 7.62x39 - the ‘eastern bloc’ cartridge used in the SKS and AK-47 firearms. The Springfield and Garand are much larger rifles, shooting heavier and more powerful (and expensive) cartridges, which predominated in the 1920-1960 era. The fully-automatic “M-16" which replaced them uses a .223 cartridge that is basically the same as the AR-15 semiautomatic version civilians typically buy. Of note is the fact that far from being “an assault weapon purely designed for killing”, the .223 guns were specifically brought to the military with the goal of having a rifle which would more likely wound the enemy rather than kill him, since a wounded individual is more distracting to comrades, creates a worse morale problem for the enemy, and creates logistics and supply problems for evacuation and medical care. These guns are awesome for a ‘just one gun’ scenario, but only IF there is adequate ammunition (and they are far pickier than most lever-action guns, for instance). They are also the most likely for a government to ‘ban’, if that government is planning on doing anything to its citizens they might not care for, and their looks intimidate neighbors, which can be good or bad, depending on what the neighbors are up to. They would likely be great ‘barter’ items in times of social breakdown, since parts are fairly generic and the guns are considered desireable by everyone, yet they could become a ‘prohibited’ item as has happened in California.

Long Range Gun - .300 Win Mag Savage Accutrigger
(alternatives - .300 Win Mag Remington Model 700, many other cartridges and brands)
This type gun is mentioned, merely as an example of ‘long range’ rifles, with a bit more power than the M1A or Garand, and much more power than the AR-15 and other ‘assault’ rifles. Mostly useful in terrain where you may need to shoot at something several hundred yards away, and want enough impact to drop game, for instance, vs. just make a hole in a paper target. Not for the novice, because once the bullet is in the air for more than a fraction of a second, wind, barometric pressure, humidity, and target movement and position become challenging even for the expert. Don’t discount the inexpensive ‘Handi-Rifle’ that is a break-open action - you can get one in some very impressive chamberings, and save enough money vs. the ‘brand’ guns to get a really good scope sight on it. The Savage ‘Accutrigger’ is mentioned specifically, because it is probably the best buy if you want a really accurate firearm, and part of the reason is the innovative trigger, plus the fact that as a non-‘status’ brand, there is no huge markup for the logo or needless cosmetic features.

Semiauto Handgun - .45 ACP Para Ordnance or Rock Island double-stack
(alternatives - other brands, single-stacks (if you don't have large hands), and .40 S&W or 9mm semiautos)
This one is mostly an alternative to the ‘main’ revolver, for those who prefer semiautomatics. They are pickier about ammunition, but most function nearly as reliably as revolvers with the proper ammunition, and have a bit more rounds available in their magazine. They are NOT guns for the novice, as they are far too easy to accidentally discharge - they cock and reload themselves, and they will still have a loaded cartridge in the chamber, even after the magazine is removed. Like the .357 Magnum and other cartridges generally used in revolvers, there are .45 ACP and .40 S&W and 9mm semiautomatic carbines one can get to form a ‘pair’ with a semiautomatic pistol. Some even can share the same magazines, and extra loaded magazines can facilitate sustained and rapid shooting.

Muzzleloader - .50 Muzzleloader Savage ML-10
(alternatives - many other brands of muzzleloaders on the market)
This one is one of many muzzleloaders, meaning guns which require only a primer, powder, and projectile - no cartridge case. Most muzzleloaders require ‘black powder’, which as a true explosive, tends to be harder to find, more heavily regulated, a bit more dangerous to handle, and important to thoroughly clean the gun after using. The Savage ML-10 is more costly than other muzzleloaders, but is extremely accurate, more powerful per shot than any other gun listed above, and CAN use several other ‘smokeless’ powders, which lack the disadvantages of black powder. You can shoot ordinary ‘pistol’ bullets like you’d use in a .357 Magnum or .44 Magnum in a muzzleloader, by putting them in a plastic cup called a ‘sabot’, which goes out the barrel with the bullet. Given the variety of powders and projectiles useable, a person with a Savage ML-10, and a bunch of the proper primers, could certainly get by quite well as far as hunting. For home-defense, no muzzleloader is very practical, as after each shot, loading the next one is cumbersome and takes nearly a minute.

Hopefully this will get you started.............
Doctors for Sensible Gun Laws
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Ysabel Kid
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by Ysabel Kid »

Hobie wrote:I guess you've about got it right. One MIGHT need a place to shoot.
I was thinking the same thing. For many of us, without access to land we can shoot on for free, one of the most expensive parts of shooting is the range fees. :(

I like starting any total newbie with a .22 rimfire. Young or old, there is no cheaper way to "get in the game", and this is often the one that gets everyone hooked! :D
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AJMD429
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by AJMD429 »

Ysabel Kid wrote:I like starting any total newbie with a .22 rimfire. Young or old, there is no cheaper way to "get in the game", and this is often the one that gets everyone hooked! :D
I AGREE...!

One of the things I really get angry about is the times someone thinks it's "funny" to give a hard-recoiling firearm to a newbie. That's like giving someone who'se never sat a horse some raging half-broke stallion. Talk about a SURE way to get that newbie to fear and dislike guns, and the people who shoot them... :evil:
Doctors for Sensible Gun Laws
"first do no harm" - gun control LAWS lead to far more deaths than 'easy access' ever could.


Want REAL change? . . . . . "Boortz/Nugent in 2012 . . . ! "
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Re: How much does it cost to get started?

Post by reddnek »

darn this sounds expensive :lol: My dad gave me his old 20 gauge single shot,I already had boots and gloves.If it was as expensive then as it is now I never would have got started
GIT 'R done
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