OT: Tool questions

[J Miller]

Several questions and comments:

C: I just recently purchased a Nickelson, U.S.A. made file and a file cleaning brush. The file came with a handle installed. It was less expensive than buying a file and a handle.

?a: How does the bought separately handles stay on the tapered ends of the files? To be honest I've never had files with handles, I just used them as is. I'm going to buy handles for all my files eventually now.

?b: Many many years ago I picked up two Heller Made in U.S.A. multi cut files for very cheep or free. They were both rusted then. I cleaned one using an old knife by carefully digging all the stuff out of the cuts. It's still a good file for general use. The second file didn't get cleaned till today with the new file cleaner. But both of them need a lot more cleaning.
Question is, what can I use to remove the rust? White Vinegar, or Navel Jelly is all I can think of. Not had good luck with Navel Jelly though.

?c: Is there different types of files for different metals?

TIA

Joe

[Cliff]

About files..... You can boil the files in water and a non-sudsing dish washing detergent or just about anytype of soap. This may loosen the crud, then attack it with a file cleaning brush. As far as the handles go, they push on and tighten up a bit and stay pretty good. Another thing old filers use chalk on their clean files to keep them from loading up. Get a couple of big chalk sticks at a hardware or building supply place. Rub it into the file grooves. After a bit of filing, clean with a file brush, reapply more chalk and keep going. One thing about files, to keep them working properly only use them on one type of metal. Once used on say steel, they don't work well on soft non-ferrous metals or wood. Also only cut in one direction, don't drag it back and forth on the piece being worked on. It can sometimes dull the files. You may be able to sharpen a used file by soaking it overnight in white vinegar. Dixie Gun Works, big catalog gives some hints on what works best. Files properly cleaned, used and taken care of will last for years. I imagine someone else will be along with more precise information. I was always told you cannot have enough files. Files are great tools if maintained and properly used. Good Luck.

[Catshooter]

I sorta step outside the box a bit with files. I love 'em.

All my files that I use for metal are covered in oil. I use 30 weight motor oil. After all, most if not all cutting tools cut better with lube. I esp oil a file when using it in the lathe. Oiling a file to be used on wood just helps to gum it up.

I threw away my file card (brush) once I realized that the spring tempered teeth of one are just about as hard as the file. They wear away the file teeth. I use a brass brush to clean.

When filing, I tap the file end on the vise about every second stroke to help keep it cleaner. All kinds of particles fall off.

Chalk does work but I don't use it. Hassle.

I don't believe you can dull a file by not lifting it on the backstroke. Nor do I think you should use a file for only one type of metal once you start.

You can epoxy the handles on if you like. I do like a handle on a file. If nothing else, it helps keep the tang of the file from getting stuffed into your wrist if the file jams up during a heavy stroke.


Cat

[LeverBob]

Jose....the better made filed handles have a screw threader built in the handle. When you put then on the first time (hard) they cut a thread in the tang of the file.

I don't return stroke the file. Tap on with a hammer & usually they stay put.

Best to you...

LB

[Gun Smith]

You shouldn't use any type of power brush to clean a file. Even though the wire may be flexible the file edges will round off in time and dull the teeth.

[Ben_Rumson]

Muriatic acid is what the old timers would use to "refresh" a file...it will eat the thin rolled over burrs and leave a sharp tooth... This acid can be got where mosonary suppies are sold... It's used among other things to clean hard concrete off of metal and clean up certain kinds of rock

[adirondakjack]

File handles are designed to slip onto the tang TIGHT. Grab any file by the handle, file sticking straight up, and rap the handle on the bench a time or two. It'll snug up nicely.

I card a file if need be. if it gets to be junk I toss it into my junk file box aka knifemaking stock....

[Sixgun]

Muriatic acid huh? Learn somethin' new everyday Thanx.

I must have 100 gunsmithing files in my junk box that no longer cut.--------------Sixgun

[Chuck 100 yd]

I sharpened a few using acid and they are very sharp when done. None of mine done that way will last long when put to work though. Seems that is is just a good way to fix them up
to dump on some unsuspecting chump at the flea market.

Good files are not expensive and when dull mine go in the scrap barrel.
Just like worn hacksaw blades and used sandpaper.

[dennie]

I have used files in my work and at home. I have used files with, and without handles. If you ever use a file while running a lathe make sure the file has a handle. The jaws of the chuck can catch the end of the file and shove the pointy end thru the palm of your hand! Do not ask how I know that, or how much it hurts to pull it back out!
Put the handles on.
Please be very careful with the muratic acid. Seems to me like a dangerous way to try to sharpen a file.
YMMV.

[J Miller]

Lots of great suggestions. Thanks. I'm not looking to sharpen the old files, just clean the rust out of the areas the file cleaner wont get to.
I think I'll try white vinegar first. That's pretty mild yet I've seen it strip a rusted piece of metal right down to the bare clean steel.

Joe

[Griff]

Several questions and comments:

C: I just recently purchased a Nickelson, U.S.A. made file and a file cleaning brush. The file came with a handle installed. It was less expensive than buying a file and a handle.
?a: How does the bought separately handles stay on the tapered ends of the files? To be honest I've never had files with handles, I just used them as is. I'm going to buy handles for all my files eventually now.

As described above, the screw on type and friction. On the drive on, DON'T use a hammer to drive on the handle. Hold by the file with the handle up, beat the file against a hard surface letting the handle impale itself on the tang.

?b: Many many years ago I picked up two Heller Made in U.S.A. multi cut files for very cheep or free. They were both rusted then. I cleaned one using an old knife by carefully digging all the stuff out of the cuts. It's still a good file for general use. The second file didn't get cleaned till today with the new file cleaner. But both of them need a lot more cleaning.
Question is, what can I use to remove the rust? White Vinegar, or Navel Jelly is all I can think of. Not had good luck with Navel Jelly though.

All I use to clean my files are a stiff wire brush, ACROSS the grain of the file. Clean & care just as you would any metal product. Keep out of moisture.

?c: Is there different types of files for different metals?

Files & rasps. Rasps CAN be for wood or metal, files are generally for metal. Rasps usually have individual teeth and are for coarser cuts. Rasps & files generally only cut in one direction, last longer if lifted on the back stroke & cleaned of debris often.

[Batman1939]

Lots of good suggestions here on file use. One additional recommendation I have is: don't throw your good files into a tool box with a lot of other tools. This is common sense. Bashing around in there they get the points (file teeth) dulled. For larger files like shoeing rasps and heavy wood rasps, storing them in short sections of firehose, the kind with heavy cloth outer wall and rubber lining, will keep them in good shape. I stumbled on this about 35 years ago and it works well for me. Smaller, unhandled files used regularly in the shop can be stored by putting their tangs into a heavy block of wood with holes for the tangs.

[J Miller]

Some one else, I believe on this forum, said they make cardboard sheaths for their files so they don't get banged against other tools.
That's what I'm going to do.
Another thing I need to do is pick up a second roll around tool box for my gun tools. I have accumulated quite a few and am always acquiring more. So I really do need a proper way to store them.

Joe

[Griff]

Lots of good suggestions here on file use. One additional recommendation I have is: don't throw your good files into a tool box with a lot of other tools. This is common sense. Bashing around in there they get the points (file teeth) dulled. For larger files like shoeing rasps and heavy wood rasps, storing them in short sections of firehose, the kind with heavy cloth outer wall and rubber lining, will keep them in good shape. I stumbled on this about 35 years ago and it works well for me. Smaller, unhandled files used regularly in the shop can be stored by putting their tangs into a heavy block of wood with holes for the tangs.

Aye, the firehose... forgot about that. Excellent point, even have some smaller files in garden hose, anything to keep them from bangin' into each other and other objects.

[Glenn]

Joe,
Years ago I bought some file handles at Sears that clamp onto the tang. The grip is plastic and the threads that draw the clamping action are steel. Easy to put on and easy to get off if you need to.
Also watch Sears for roll-around tool boxes on sale. Saw them in last Sunday's paper, 2 piece, upper and lower for $200.
Glenn

[Gobblerforge]

If'n you get too many dull files, find your local smith and give them to him. The steel from a file is good steel for making fire starting flint steels. For handles I use golf balls. Very comfortable on the hand and non slip. Just drill a hole that is a smaller diameter than the tang of the file, about 2/3rds the way through. Then drive the tang in. Done. I use different color golf balls to readily reach for the right file.
Gobbler

[Griff]

If<snip> For handles I use golf balls. Very comfortable on the hand and non slip. Just drill a hole that is a smaller diameter than the tang of the file, about 2/3rds the way through. Then drive the tang in. Done. I use different color golf balls to readily reach for the right file.
Gobbler

WOW!!!

[20cows]

I have an idea Gobbler has some experience in this area.

[J Miller]

Hmmm, we do have some stray golf balls around here .....

Joe

[Griff]

Hmmm, we do have some stray goof balls around here .....
Joe

That's "GOLF" balls, Joe; not goof balls!!!!

[Gobblerforge]

Hmmm, we do have some stray goof balls around here .....
Joe

That's "GOLF" balls, Joe; not goof balls!!!!

Depends on how you play.
Gobbler

[J Miller]

Griff,

I have only one use for "goof" balls ... shoot 'em! Who ever thought up the idea of walking around on a perfectly manicured lawn whacking a little dimpled ball with a funny shaped stick was an efite snob elitist and probably ...... well I should quit there.
Those little dimpled balls make the best reactionary targets. You never know where they're going when you hit them.

Joe

[Chas.]

Handle? Corncob works as well for me as it did for Grandad.

[bsaride]

On some old leather tools (all metal) that were rusty I used Cream of Tartar in an aluminum pot (don't use anything steel)
bring the pot of water with a couple tablespoons of Cream of Tartar to a boil. boil the tools for awhile and repeat as necessary.
might be able to do the files in an aluminum tray across a couple burners of a camp stove.