Rolling Block 45/70

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.Dirty-.Thirty
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Rolling Block 45/70

Post by .Dirty-.Thirty »

After looking at the Rolling Blocks posted in the military rifle thread, I was wondering if there is a go to forum for info on learning of these rifles? I noticed a couple in my local pawn shop. I know nothing of these rifles but do love the way they look, their age and I already love the 45/70 cartridge, where should I look for info?
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71fan
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Re: Rolling Block 45/70

Post by 71fan »

I would start at the Remington Society of America forum, in the pre-1898 rifles section. There are a few resident RB experts in there, including Roy Marcot, who seems to be the most prolific author on the RBs, at present.

I have (and shoot) a No. 1 Sporting in 45-70, all original. Fun rifles.
Chad
stanforth
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Re: Rolling Block 45/70

Post by stanforth »

I agree with Chad.
I have had good results from the Remington Society forum.
A cheap alternative (certainly here in the UK) is the Swedish Rolling Blocks in 12.7X44R. The round is similar to the 50/70 Govt. and can be reloaded with 50/70 dies. I have 2 of these and they shoot well.
M. M. Wright
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Re: Rolling Block 45/70

Post by M. M. Wright »

I have a Danish 11.7x51R which I had reamed to accept the 45-70. I know, desecration for the purest but this was when it was worth about $12. Shoots well with 300 grain bullets but it won't stabilize heavy bullets. Almost always use ffg (case full naturally) and the bore is kinda large as it needs .461 diameter bullets. I've had it since I was 12, the first centerfire rifle I acquired. I love it.

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Hobie
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Re: Rolling Block 45/70

Post by Hobie »

This is one I don't have but should. Elmer Keith's telling of the Nelson Story story makes me want a .50-70. I know, these might have been the earlier guns but...
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awp101
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Re: Rolling Block 45/70

Post by awp101 »

stanforth wrote: A cheap alternative (certainly here in the UK) is the Swedish Rolling Blocks in 12.7X44R. The round is similar to the 50/70 Govt. and can be reloaded with 50/70 dies. I have 2 of these and they shoot well.
What brass are you using? .50/70 or 12.7x44R?
Nothing so needs reforming as other people's habits.
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Pete44ru
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Re: Rolling Block 45/70

Post by Pete44ru »

You can get a quick education on RB rifle actions, and how to alter/gunsmith them, by picking up (amazon.con, etc) any one of the Frank deHaas (Mister SingleShot) books on "The Single Shot Rifle". (There are several different single-shot rifle books, with different titles, etc - some relative inexpensive)

http://www.dehaas.com/guns/

I have a copy of his "Gunsmith's Idea Book"

.
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JReed
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Re: Rolling Block 45/70

Post by JReed »

Nother vote for checking out Remington Society lots of info there. http://www.remingtonsociety.com/forums/index.php
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awp101
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Re: Rolling Block 45/70

Post by awp101 »

awp101 wrote:
stanforth wrote: A cheap alternative (certainly here in the UK) is the Swedish Rolling Blocks in 12.7X44R. The round is similar to the 50/70 Govt. and can be reloaded with 50/70 dies. I have 2 of these and they shoot well.
What brass are you using? .50/70 or 12.7x44R?
Bump to see if anyone can answer this... :mrgreen:
Nothing so needs reforming as other people's habits.
-Mark Twain

Proverbs 3:5; Philippians 4:13

Got to have a Jones for this
Jones for that
This running with the Joneses boy
Just ain't where it's at
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KWK
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Re: Rolling Block 45/70

Post by KWK »

The ASSRA fourms might be helpful as well.
adirondakjack
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Re: Rolling Block 45/70

Post by adirondakjack »

While I agree with the above for a good education, a Roller is about the easiest gun in the world to check out for condition. Eyeball real close where the big fat pins cross through the frame, the ones the hammer and especially the block rotate on. If the frame is not cracked by the pins, and the pins are not loose, good.

Now move to headspace. Ya gotta have a fired or unprimed case to check this. Load the gun with the fired case, close the block, hold back the hammer and pull the trigger, now lower the hammer. If properly locked up, the hammer will be wedged under the block, and the block will have ZERO wiggle as it is wedged against the back of the case.

Now cock the hammer and roll the block back. If the extractor is working right, the case will be extraced a little bit, enough to get hold of it and pull it out.

That, and proper operation of the trigger are about all there is to the action. Eyeball the bore and the wood, and make yer offer.
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