Having difficulty removing the magazine cap on Rossi M92

[TriggerPhinger]

I can't remove the magazine cap crew on my Rossi M92. I have an octagon barrel and the screw appears to go through the magazine tube and into the lower barrel flat.
I purchased a screwdriver to fit the cap screw but I can't turn the screw! I have tried tapping the screw head with a soft hammer and finally a brass hammer but still the screw won't budge! I wonder if anyone on this forum has had the same problem? I would appreciate some help!

Thanks

[AJMD429]

I've had two of them (and one Marlin) where that screw had essentially no real 'threads', but had a sort of 'thread-like' grooving on the end, like they were pre-stripped (all guns were new in box).

They'd turn just fine, but the only thing holding them from just falling out was the friction from the 'thread-like' grooves.

Maybe yours was one of the same kind, somebody 'fixed' with a bit of epoxy...?

[TriggerPhinger]

This is a new Rossi M92 and I hope they didn't use some rusting agent on the threads! If you coat the threads with iodine before assembly the screws set perminantly! I could try heating my mag cap screw but I don't want to screw up the finish!

[AJMD429]

Having many times been too impatient to wait for several sets of advice, then choosing among that advice and proceeding with deliberation - resulting in broken parts and so forth. . . . . . I'd keep waiting for some more answers before proceeding.

[earlmck]

Ouch! When they don't move like they're supposed to it is painful. From your post, I'm afraid you may already have performed my suggestion, which is to fit the screwdriver in the screwhead and then give a sharp rap on the top of the screwdriver like you are trying to drive the screw in deeper. That almost always works a miracle. If you did that, and are still stuck, then I don't have a better idea.

[piller]

You might try using an electric soldering iron to heat the screw up. If it is epoxied into place, that should be enough heat to break it free without ruining the finish.

[Nate Kiowa Jones]

This subject comes up about once a month. It's really not a problem if you have the right equipment. To start with you have to have some means of holding the gun so it doesn't move and I'm not talking about one of those cradle type gun stands. I use a machinist vise with padded jaws.

Next you have to have proper fitting driver tips. The problem is you can't always find the correct one. Learn how to hollow grind them to fit. I don't try to buy specific tips. I use oversize tips and hollow grind them to fit. (Dremel and sanding drum) That is the only way to insure the fit.
Next, you need this;

7 Piece Reversible Impact Driver Set



This will be the best 6 bucks you will ever spent.

[Chas.]

I work on vintage outboards quite a bit and an impact driver is an absolute MUST. They work wonders.

[TriggerPhinger]

Thanks for the many suggestions. I have an impact tool and I have used Steve's method of hollow grinding bits. I am glad to hear that I am the only guy with this problem!
I'll get to work and see what I can do and report back with my results.

Thanks again ....

[Jeff H]

........This will be the best 6 bucks you will ever spent.

You're the MAN, Steve!

Brownell's is a great place, but I can't afford everything in their catalog that I might need once or twice. That tool would have been handy on a couple of crusty old Mauser projects I've done too, but the levers have more screws than I am used to ans some day...... I always seem to get into trouble with stuck screws on vehicles more than guns though. I have to get me one of these.