OT - Trouble with Ruger BH - Transfer Bar

Scott64A · Post by **Scott64A** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:45 pm

So I went to the range today with a friend of mine to try some loads I'm working on: 158gr LSWCHP over 11.5gr 2400, some 158gr Norma jacketed round nose over 14.5gr of 2400, but more like a SWC profile, and some 160gr Speer RN over 14.5gr of 2400.

The LSWCHP, (swaged,) shot very well and I didn't get any fouling at all, though a handful of unburnt kernel from each round. Nice groups.

The 158gr RN shot well too, as did the 160gr bullets.

Trouble is, toward the end of the session of 50 bullets, the hammer started hanging up. More specifically, the transfer bar was catching on the back of the firing pin.
The firing pin looks to be fine, and it sticks out at the same height it did before these loads.

The transfer bar, however, rattles around a little now, and it's hanging up.

I completely stripped down the gun, lock, stock and barrel and inspected/cleaned. It's the first time I've ever done this with this gun, and aside from learning "how to" along the way, it was easy.

There was a bit of crud in there, so I wiped it all clean with BreakFree and reassembled it. It still hangs up unless you cant it back a bit.

What do you guys think is wrong with it? Transfer bar bent from heavy bullets?
Just worn?

How can I fix this?

JMiller, I am especially interested in your POV here, since you seem to be "the guy who strips all weapons down and then finds out stuff" like me.

Don McDowell · Post by **Don McDowell** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 10:15 pm

Down along the bottom side of the hammer is a small spring loaded plunger that actually runs the transfer bar. If that thing is crudded up inside , so it doesn't move freely it will not let the transfer bar back to clear the firing pin.
There's a really small drift pin that holds that plunger assembly in place. Should you determine you need to remove that plunger do so carefully and have someone help you watch where things go should they escape, because that spring is fully capable of flinging the plunger to the ceiling

and then richoceting around the floor.

I heartly recommend trying some penetrating oil to see if that plunger loosens up before taking it apart.

cas · Post by **cas** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 10:48 pm

The rattle may be annoying, but it's not bad or abnormal.

A little grease goes a long ways.

#2 Check your base pin. It has a spring loaded tip that bears against the transfer bar. If it's binding (the transfer bar hitting the bottom of the firing pin on the way up) this spring/rod may not be working right.

cas · Post by **cas** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:00 pm

FWIW.. here's half a web page I made close to a year ago but never finished. It has to do with broken transfer bars, but it still shows the parts in relation to each other.

http://www.cylindersmith.com/Transferbar.html

DPris · Post by **DPris** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:02 pm

Base pin. Make sure it's fully to the rear & locked in place.
Denis

Scott64A · Post by **Scott64A** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:10 pm

Ha ha...

I found this topic on Rugerforum.com and it was indeed the base pin. It was locked in all the way, but it had a little play. I oiled the pin and worked it in and out a bit and slid it home after putting the cylinder back in place.

It works fine now, and since I cleaned the parts inside and lightly oiled them, AND lightened the trigger spring a little, this gun is slick to cycle now, and the trigger release is crisp, but not too light.

Much better, and thanks.

J Miller · Post by **J Miller** » Wed Mar 12, 2008 11:52 pm

Well, there you go. You got it all fixed before I even found the thread. That's what I get for leaving the computer and watching a movie about the last Roman legion.

Joe

Griff · Post by **Griff** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 12:07 am

J Miller wrote:Well, there you go. You got it all fixed before I even found the thread. That's what I get for leaving the computer and watching a movie about the last Roman legion.
Joe

For shame. And just when someone needed you!

Scott64A · Post by **Scott64A** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 11:55 am

Funny!

Thanks to everyone.

Say, how do I get the spring out to clean in there? Are those notches there for a screwdriver to let it all out?
I'm always thinking ahead!

DPris · Post by **DPris** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 12:26 pm

OK, Joe-
Just to prove you're not a contrary cuss, I say the straight-edged gladiolus was the most practical between it & the wasp-waisted gladiolus.
Now, I dare you to agree with me!

Denis

Slick · Post by **Slick** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 1:27 pm

edited

J Miller · Post by **J Miller** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 1:57 pm

Scott64A wrote:Funny!

Thanks to everyone.

Say, how do I get the spring out to clean in there? Are those notches there for a screwdriver to let it all out?
I'm always thinking ahead!

Scott,
The spring loaded plunger in the base pin does not come out. The indents are stakings and they hold it in. The best way to clean that is stick the nozzle from a break clean, or carb clean can in and hose it out. Then lightly lube it.
Just watch your eyes.

The slots on each side of the base pin latch screw are to disassemble it. You'll need a specially modified screwdriver for the nut side. They are easy to make, a Dremel tool and a few minutes will get it done.
Wolff makes an extra strength spring for the base pin latch, and I highly recommend installing one.

Also here is a thread by adirondakjack about base pin latches:
http://forums.handloads.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=3081

Joe

J Miller · Post by **J Miller** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 2:05 pm

DPris wrote:OK, Joe-
Just to prove you're not a contrary cuss, I say the straight-edged gladiolus was the most practical between it & the wasp-waisted gladiolus.
Now, I dare you to agree with me!
Denis

Denis,

You have me on this one. I was able to Google the straight gladiolus sword, but not the the other one.

I do like the looks of the straight one, but not being a swordsman, I can't agree or disagree with you. Sorry about that.

Joe

DPris · Post by **DPris** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 2:21 pm

Denis

Scott64A · Post by **Scott64A** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 2:25 pm

So I can remove the base pin assembly, place the latch pin in a chuck and polish it so that it is "sqaure" and not worn to a taper and this will alleviate the problem?

Won't this relieving reduce the diameter of the base pin latch?

I am guessing mine malfunctioned because the spring was hung up and not letting the pin actually contact the transfer bar. It didn't seem to move much when I pushed the base pin in, but when I oiled the spring under the base of the pin that actually contacts the transfer bar, the problem was resolved.

I will keep this in mind though incase it does "spit the pin".

Good stuff, Joe, as usual.

J Miller · Post by **J Miller** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 2:31 pm

Scott,

If your pistol hung up because the little plunger was stuck in the retracted position, and not because the base pin jumped the latch, you shouldn't have any trouble.
I just posted that link for educational purposes really. I still recommend a Wolff extra strength latch spring. I have one in my OM BH .45 just for insurance.

Joe

DPris · Post by **DPris** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 3:38 pm

You can also replace with a Belt Mountain pin with a locking screw.
I actually had the pin walk forward on a .22 Single-Six recently, which was quite a surprise.
I think it's a good idea in general to replace the factory latch spring with a much stronger one.
And, way back in '76 I had the little plunger in the base pin on my first Single-Six freeze up. Cleared the problem with some good oil, has never repeated.
Denis

jd45 · Post by **jd45** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:18 pm

Joe, can I assume you'd recommend I get one of those extra-strength latch springs for my new Acusport? Thanx, jd45

J Miller · Post by **J Miller** » Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:25 pm

JD,

Normally I don't recommend after market parts but in this case it is an inexpensive replacement part that actually does help.
So yes, I'd recommend it.

Joe