lee sizing die question

[kingemandigger]

I recently set up my lee challenger press and wanted to test the lee decapping and resizing die on some new brass before I primed it. I have new starline 45 colt cases and lee resizing lube. I tightened the die to where it was just touching the shellholder. after sending one through the die, I noticed that it sized the case a little small. there is a slight bulge at the base and to test the size, I tried to put the lee case trimming measuring rod through the case, It didn't fit. Now I know that new cases should come at right width to begin with. Also, I will not be able to trim cases after depriming them Does anyone have any suggestions, is this normal, etc. I certainly dont like anythin less than precision for reloading

[Cast Bullet Hunter]

The Lee case trimmer is intended to be used in fired cases, not sized. Read the instructions.

All Carbide dies, all sizer dies for that matter, slightly over-size the cases with the expectation they will then be expanded. This is why they leave a ring if you try to size to the base. I don't recall where I found this, but it excellently describes this sitiation and how carbide sizers should be used.

“Don’t Resize More Than Needed
Carbide sizing dies can create a ring or slight bottleneck effect ahead of the rim that is largely a cosmetic problem but could eventually overwork the brass. Resizing for most revolvers needs only to make the case small enough for reliable chambering and a good bullet grip. Not all combinations of dies and cartridge cases will suffer this ringing, but the first time it happened to me, I didn’t like the effect.
I’m not talking neck-sizing. We’re going to size most of the case, but set the die so it’s not as close to nearly touching the shellholder as normally prescribed. Typical instructions for carbide sizer dies have you turn the die into the press until it is about the thickness of a matchbook cover from touching the shellholder. I’ve found that leaving the die as far as 1/4 inch from the shellholder reduces the ringing effect without affecting reliable chambering. Your gauge for checking this is your revolver’s cylinder; have it handy while setting your sizer die.”

You mentioned sizing lube. Since you are using a carbide die (Your mention of the ring shows this!), why are you using sizing lube? One of the great benefits of using carbide sizers is there is no need to use lube!

[kingemandigger]

thanks, ill try leaving the die 1/4 in. from the base to minimize the effect. Just depends on how the bullet seats whether I try and fix the problem or not, just need a chance to cast some more boolits. However, the decapping die is also the resizing die, and the lee case trimmer requires that the primer be removed in order to work. therefore, i can't trim my cases. I may end up fixing this by getting a lee universal decapping die. Just wondering if anyone has had the same experiance or if it can harm the case. I'm a little worried about the alleged hour glass shape after seating boolits.

[alnitak]

Guess I'm confused...why do you want to trim new brass??

[kingemandigger]

i dont need to, im just thinking about what will happen after I fire it and want to load it again. However, I got a good opinion from someone. If my rounds turn out ok in the end, I might just attach the thing to a drill an file it down a bit. just needs to be a hair smaller to fit into the round.

[Hawkeye2]

Straight wall cases rarely need trimming as it's the expander plug used in bottle neck cases that stretches them, not a bad idea to check after a few loadings though. Cases should be trimmed before resizing. I keep a Lee universal decaping die permenantly set up in an inexpensive Lee C frame press to one side of the bench. Once you do that you will be supprised at how often you use it!

[FatJackDurham]

How do you know it was a carbide die? Did it say that in the post? I must be blind, I dont see that.

I use the carbide die on my 357 brass, but I get a reverse bulge where the brass seems permanently narrower just next to the rim, and expands out to where the sizer reaches.

I do find that when I resize, if I use over sized projectiles, like .360, the round is fat where the bullet seats, bows in where the brass was resized, out again at the base. I ususally dont resize now unless I can't get the bullet to seat, then I just resize the neck a little.

[J Miller]

When you size straight wall pistol cases with a carbide die, back the die out so it does not size down past the web of the case. No need to go that far.
All carbide dies except the Redding dual ring dies over size the case all the way down. That's just the nature of them.

When you size a straight walled pistol case with a standard die, it will not fully size the lower end of the case. There will be a slight bulge down towards the web. That is normal and to be expected.

Straight walled pistol cases rarely stretch, they usually shrink. Been loading them for over 40 years now and I've never seen them grow enough to trim. Not even .357 cases loaded hot.

If you start with 50 cases all trimmed to the exact same length, size them the same, load them the same, fire them in the same chamber, you'll be hard pressed to find a dozen the same length. Don't know why that is, but that is the way of it.

So if your using a carbide die, back it off a bit so it's not sizing the web of the case and ignore the little ring that sometimes forms where the die stops. Backing the die off a bit usually prevent this little ring.

Use a regular case expander and beller, they are easier to work with than the Lyman M die that requires the cases to be the same length. Seat your bullets to where you want them then crimp them.

Now go shoot 'em.

Joe