New member and Rossi 92 .357 owner

slamfire · Post by **slamfire** » Tue May 18, 2010 12:02 pm

Greetings,
Just acquired an new (yes, new in-box, believe it or not) Interarms Rossi 92 in .357, which I will be picking up soon. I would like to install a spring kit and I wonder if someone can tell me what size/type punch is ideal for removing the bolt pin?
Thanks for any help.
s

Griff · Post by **Griff** » Tue May 18, 2010 12:19 pm

and Welcome to The Forum.

J Miller · Post by **J Miller** » Tue May 18, 2010 12:59 pm

Welcome to the forum.

Wow, NIB rifle. Don't have it yet. Haven't shot it yet. Don't know what it might or might not need. Don't even know if it needs fixed or not and you're already getting ready to tear into it.

The best way is to shoot it first. Put a couple hundred rounds through it, then you'll know better what it does need.

JMHO

Joe

gamekeeper · Post by **gamekeeper** » Tue May 18, 2010 1:17 pm

Welcome to the Fire

All my .357 Rossi needed was a lot of rounds putting through it.

It was pretty stiff from new.

rjohns94 · Post by **rjohns94** » Tue May 18, 2010 1:24 pm

welcome . hope you enjoy the forum. I don't have the answer to your question. perhaps our resident '92 slicker-upper NKJ will chime in. He did my Rossi and I am well pleased with his work. There are many others here though that have the answer to your question. They will be along in good time. blessings.

Post by **Hobie** » Tue May 18, 2010 3:01 pm

We should congratulate NKJ (Nate Kiowa Jones aka Steve Young of Steve's Gunz) as he is now featured in the EMF catalog as an expert on the Rossi 92s.

bdhold · Post by **bdhold** » Tue May 18, 2010 3:24 pm

that's quite a step - good on Steve.

welcome, slamfire - in case you haven't noticed, we like photos.

Booger Bill · Post by **Booger Bill** » Tue May 18, 2010 3:58 pm

I also just bought one recently and posted about it today on another thread. Steve sells a CD on working on your 92. I am also thinking of buying one from him and a few parts. I am going to shoot mine a little first to see what it needs before I jump. For me, being a big guy, I found out I needed a pad for extra length of pull. I also belive I will be getting a reciever sight too. Hear are a couple leads, check them out!
http://www.buffaloarms.com/browse.cfm/4,848.html
http://www.stevesgunz.com/

slamfire · Post by **slamfire** » Tue May 18, 2010 5:51 pm

Thanks for all the comments.
I do plan to shoot it before I undertake any work on the gun - I simply want to be prepared. I have done quite a bit of research on the Rossi 92 and am already familiar with Steve's work and the issues some of these rifles have. This one dates from late 80s, early 90s, according to the guy at M&M Gunsmithing, who is a former Interarms GS. It was some time after that when Rossi changed to CNC machining in their manufacturing process and, apparently, some pre-CNC guns were shipped with niggling problems. I enjoy tinkering and, from what I have read, the 92 dissasembly and reassembly is something I could tackle and lighter springs make a big difference. So why not? Don't plan to do much with the sights unless they are just whacked. The Skinner peep looks interesting as an easy replacement but it I think the front sight might have to be raised to make it work. Don't really want to go there as the FS is on the barrel band. I just want it to be snot-slick. I am not into CAS - just a recreational shooter.
It was difficult to find one of these rifles in .357 (I have a .357 wheel gun) by the time I started looking. I may have over-paid a little bit but the prices seem to be going up fast. In fact, the new versions from Taurus/Rossi, to be called the "El Jefe", will be priced significantly higher than previous models and they will come with the Taurus lock on the hammer as well as the cross-bolt safety. The blue, 20" round barrel carbine will carry a suggested retail of $649 according to their website.
Anyhow, I'm looking forward to some fun shooting. I'll get a photo up on here later. Levers rock!

Booger Bill · Post by **Booger Bill** » Tue May 18, 2010 6:17 pm

$649s ??? I just gave $367.91 + $22.26 tax for total of $390.17 for mine NIB last month from cal ranch store here. Mine is a 20" blue, not case hardined. Maybe it wasnt moveing or something. Think I did get a cut for some reason.

slamfire · Post by **slamfire** » Tue May 18, 2010 7:09 pm

Bill, I believe you got a smokin' deal, to say the least. I'm sure they are out there - I just couldn't find one.
Was that the newest Taurus/Rossi El Jefe or one of the several previous importers? I think the importer history goes something like this:

Interarms for decades until they got into trouble in the late 90s.
Then EMF, Navy Arms, Legacy and Hartford were importers for a while. Sometime around then they started putting the cross-bolt safety on.
In 1997, Rossi formed Braztech to handle their own exports.
Taurus made a deal to take over Braztech and then, in 2008, acquired Rossi Firearms S.A., the manufacturer.

There are still some Braztech (and a few other) imports out there but .357 is scarce (thank you, CAS).

Here is a link from the Taurus USA website. There used to be a link on this page to specs, which had the suggested retail price.
http://www.rossiusa.com/2010catalog/?catalog_page=14

Booger Bill · Post by **Booger Bill** » Tue May 18, 2010 7:51 pm

slamfire, mine says rossi on the barrel, braziltec on the tang, rossi 92 lever on the box and in smaller letters on the end of the box says made by taurs for rossi braziltec.
Back in the early 70s I had a winchester 92 octogon barreled rifle in shot -out 25-20 I had since a kid in the mid 50s. I had it completly restored to .357. I had new wood put on it and reblued. It was a fine job and unless you really what to look for, it looked like winchester made it yesterday. I stupidly sold it or traded it off. Right after that I had a shot-out winchester 73 in 32-20. I had that one rebored to .38 special! That one is gone too!
I really would like a bunch more of them in .218 bee, .256 winchester mag. I would really like them all in case hardened frames, short rifle configuerations, with special longer pull fancy wood stocks. Hows that for dreaming? When I bought the .357 I knew it was marked down about $70s or so, but I didnt know it was THAT much! Thanks!

slamfire · Post by **slamfire** » Tue May 18, 2010 8:51 pm

Bill, unless it has the Taurus locking system on the hammer it is a Taurus/Braztech import and not the latest Taurus model. A few months ago the price you got was the going rate for those guns.

My understanding is that the older Winchester receivers were made of steel that was not nearly as hard as the Rossi rifles. There are some who think they were not safe to chamber in magnum pistol calibers. But those original Winchesters are dearly priced today, regardless of caliber, even re-chambered. I would love to own one.

Here is the link with the MSRP:
http://www.rossiusa.com/2010catalog/?catalog_page=7

ByronG · Post by **ByronG** » Tue May 18, 2010 8:59 pm

J Miller wrote:
Wow, NIB rifle. Don't have it yet. Haven't shot it yet. Don't know what it might or might not need. Don't even know if it needs fixed or not and you're already getting ready to tear into it.

The best way is to shoot it first. Put a couple hundred rounds through it, then you'll know better what it does need.

JMHO

Joe

In any event he's going to need the punch at some point to be able to strip it down and nobody has actually addressed that question.

Been quite a few fellas here, if I'm not mistaken, bought a new already slicked up Rossi direct from Steve Young and there's been talk aplenty on what's needed to get 'em to run better.

Maybe little harsh, methinks.....

Jaguarundi · Post by **Jaguarundi** » Tue May 18, 2010 9:07 pm

Welcome aboard and congrats on the new rifle.

willygene · Post by **willygene** » Tue May 18, 2010 11:11 pm

i haven't had any problem finding the mod 92 in 357 there are plenty of them on gunbroker 500 or less. my braztec 357 trapper or as it is marked puma was 420 new in the box.

slamfire · Post by **slamfire** » Wed May 19, 2010 3:12 pm

ByronG, thanks for the support. I had similar thoughts but, as a newbie, didn't want to come off as too confrontational. It's well known that springs and a little smoothing can improve the action. Why does anyone do action jobs on any gun?
Had one done on my S&W M19 years ago and what a difference.

Willygene, you are right. I found 3 listings, all under $500. Those auctions have some time left so we'll see what they actually sell for. Interestingly, two of them won't sell to me, a CA resident. Major internet gun dealers like Bud's Guns and Able's show Rossi 92s on their websites but all the .357s are "out of stock". In fact, Bud's currently has no Rossi 92's in stock. I believe the Interarms Rossi 92 (pre-safety), which are even harder to find, may get into the same price range as the Browings and Japanese Winchester 92s some day. I did find this:
http://www.armslist.com/posts/33296/ind ... -mag-rifle
which someone should jump on right now. It came up after I bought mine, dang it.
When the new Taurus/Rossi 92s come on the market, I think the prices for used R92s will go up, especially as more folks get into CAS. There will always be exceptions.

Griff · Post by **Griff** » Wed May 19, 2010 3:18 pm

MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU HAVE A ROSSI! The New "PUMA"s are made by ArmiSport and do not use a pin for the lever/bolt. It is a screw.

slamfire · Post by **slamfire** » Wed May 19, 2010 4:43 pm

Thanks, Griff.
I am absolutely sure this rifle is an Interarms Rossi. I like the Chiappa 92 but they are a lot more expensive than the Rossi. I suspect the Italians make a better rifle, however. The take-downs look really nice.

Griff · Post by **Griff** » Wed May 19, 2010 5:05 pm

In which case, I think the largest punch that will fit thru the hole on the right side of the receiver, as, IIRC the lrver/bolt pin is about 3/16" in diameter. Check here for details.

slamfire · Post by **slamfire** » Wed May 19, 2010 7:08 pm

Thanks, again, Griff. Fianlly, someone answered the original question. The easy link is appreciated, the instructions there are what led me down this dusty road in the first place. I'll let everyone know how it turns out.
In looking around here I discovered a member called Slamfire1. Didn't mean to hijack his name. He must be a pump gunner. I wish someone made a modern, hammerless, pistol caliber, slam-firing pump.

slamfire · Post by **slamfire** » Mon May 24, 2010 2:32 pm

OK, picked up the gun this weekend and only got chance to look it over real good. It was well oiled and in its original oily plastic sleeve. Working the action produced some rust in the excess oil on the locking bolts. This rifle has definitely been sitting around for a long time (ten years?) probably in Florida for a good part of the time. So I think I need to tear it down for a good cleaning, anyway - gotta get that rust out of there. I think I will just put a wire wheel on the inner surfaces and working parts. The stiff action is especially hard and rough for the last quarter-inch before closing. There seems to be a very tiny gap between the front of the left locking 'lug' and the bolt that does not exist on the right 'lug'. Will this condition "shoot in"? I'm going to inspect for burrs. The stock could be better fitted but it's not terrible.
Photos later.

Tycer · Post by **Tycer** » Mon May 24, 2010 4:11 pm

slamfire wrote:OK, picked up the gun this weekend and only got chance to look it over real good. It was well oiled and in its original oily plastic sleeve. Working the action produced some rust in the excess oil on the locking bolts. This rifle has definitely been sitting around for a long time (ten years?) probably in Florida for a good part of the time. So I think I need to tear it down for a good cleaning, anyway - gotta get that rust out of there. I think I will just put a wire wheel on the inner surfaces and working working parts. The stiff action is especially hard and rough for the last quarter-inch before closing. There seems to be a very tiny gap between the front of the left locking 'lug' and the bolt that does not exist on the right 'lug'. Will this condition "shoot in"? I'm going to inspect for burrs. The stock could be better fitted but it's not terrible.
Photos later.

No. That last quarter inch is the ejector spring being too stiff. You'll find the gun will throw brass a long way.

Order Nate's DVD, an ejector spring and a metal magazine follower if yours is plastic. It really makes a 92 SWEET. http://www.stevesgunz.com

slamfire · Post by **slamfire** » Mon May 24, 2010 7:26 pm

Hard to believe it about that spring but that's what everybody says. Something just feels gritty, too.
I'm going for this kit:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=5918 ... Spring_Kit
There are intructions available on the internet.

Tycer · Post by **Tycer** » Mon May 24, 2010 8:27 pm

slamfire wrote: There are intructions available on the internet.

Are there instructions for slicking the extractor? While it's apart need to work that too.
Don't forget the fired case. Gotta use that on putting it back together.

Post by **Ysabel Kid** » Mon May 24, 2010 8:36 pm

Late to the party, but welcome aboard!

Nate Kiowa Jones · Post by **Nate Kiowa Jones** » Mon May 24, 2010 11:27 pm

Howdy and welcome to the fire.

There are a couple spring kits available for the Rossi 92's. But I don't much care for spring kits in general and specifically those sold for the Rossi's.
The reason most guns come with excessively heavy springs is because the makers don't want to spend a lot of time hand fitting the parts for lighter springs. They would rather just get the parts close then depend on the heavier than needed springs. So, if you use a spring kit with the poorly fitted parts it may not work for one and at best you don't get the benefit of properly fitted parts.
One of the kits sold for the Rossi's can actually ruin your hammer and trigger. It has a “U” shaped wire trigger spring that tends to weaken. When that happens the trigger gets way too light then the next thing you know, the gun miss fires because the quarter cock notch on the hammer is hitting the trigger nose as it goes by because the trigger didn't get pulled far enough back to clear. Then the hammer starts following the bolt too because it's slipping off the battered trigger nose. One of the kits has an ejector spring that is just too long and if you cut it, chances are the ejector will stick. One has a new hammer spring that is too small OD that lets it slip into the spring stop binding the hammer strut. Like Tycer said, neither kit addresses the extractor which adds to the bumps closing the action. The last 1/4" or so of closing the action is the ejector collapsing and the extractor hook climbing over the rim. The extractors are left really thick/stiff so it can be milled along with the top of the bolt at higher feed rates. If it were thin it would at best loose it's temp or worse it would warp. I have my own ejector spring I use and just modify the other stock springs once the parts are refitted to work with the modified springs.

As for the Italian made 92's. They are much better finished for sure. The lines are more historically correct, too. But, they have had some functionality problems. Think about this. All the folks that made the original 92's are long dead and gone. The folks with the most experience building 92's now are the Rossi folks. They have been doing it for 30 something years. They aren't finished as nice as some of the others but they don't cost twice as much either and it’s closer to the original than the others when it come to working like it should.

BTW, Interarms didn't get in trouble. The owner passed away and the heirs elected to sell out(late 1990's). Then some of the Interarms employee's started Legacy. Navy and EMF started importing the Rossi about this same time. (Hartford is EMF's model designation. I'm the guy that spec-ed the EMF Rossi's) The legacy imported Rossi had the bolt top safety. The EMF and Navy didn't until 2006.

slamfire · Post by **slamfire** » Tue May 25, 2010 4:47 pm

Thanks, NKJ, for your enlightening post. There is certainly a lot to know about these rifles and their peculiarities.
I fear I have a more serious problem, at the moment, however.
The left locking bolt does not come to bear, at all, on the rear of the bolt. The right locking bolt bears so hard on the bolt that it cants the bolt face slightly to the left on closing with no case in the chamber. The left locking bolt floats free at all times and there are no wear marks where it should bear on the bolt. This can't be normal. I'm sure I am feeling heavy locking-bolt-to-bolt friction at that last quarter inch. There are heavy wear marks on the right rear of the bolt and there may be some irregularity there. I haven't tried to close it on a case, yet. I dread to think about the prospects of doing so but should I send this rifle to Rossi? I would hope they would still honor the warranty.

Post by **Hobie** » Tue May 25, 2010 5:07 pm

Ummmm, my thought was if you have the gun you just use one of your punches that fits. I guess you don't have a SET of punches. Silly me.

madman4570 · Post by **madman4570** » Tue May 25, 2010 5:21 pm

Welcome slamfire! (sounds like a bummer on your gun)

Guys I just dont get it.This is a new gun?
A brand new gun (why should it need anything)until its been used and broke in/then evaluated?
If I had to monkey around with that kind of stuff,that would be one gun I wouldnt buy???????

Bruce Scott · Post by **Bruce Scott** » Tue May 25, 2010 6:57 pm

slamfire wrote:Thanks, NKJ, for your enlightening post. There is certainly a lot to know about these rifles and their peculiarities.
I fear I have a more serious problem, at the moment, however.
The left locking bolt does not come to bear, at all, on the rear of the bolt. The right locking bolt bears so hard on the bolt that it cants the bolt face slightly to the left on closing with no case in the chamber. The left locking bolt floats free at all times and there are no wear marks where it should bear on the bolt. This can't be normal. I'm sure I am feeling heavy locking-bolt-to-bolt friction at that last quarter inch. There are heavy wear marks on the right rear of the bolt and there may be some irregularity there. I haven't tried to close it on a case, yet. I dread to think about the prospects of doing so but should I send this rifle to Rossi? I would hope they would still honor the warranty.

I remembered seeing this problem discussed on another forum - the buyer in this case was able to exchange the gun (twice).

"Before Rossi went to CNC machining, sometime in the mid-90's, I bought a 92 in .44 Mag. While looking at the locking blocks at the top of the receiver, I noticed some light coming through on one side. I held it up to a sunlit window, and darn if one locking block wasn't bearing on the bolt at all! This was when Interarms handled their importation and was located in Old Town Alexandria, Virginia. I lived close by so called ahead and they said to bring it by the warehouse and they'd replace it. Took the replacement home, and a few days later noticed the barrel wasn't in line with the receiver...pointed left a few degrees. Called ahead, brought it back, the gunsmith there brought another one out of stock...this one I examined while he waited (impatiently I might add...like it's my fault their products sucked!)...no go, another one with one locking block not bearing. He stomped off to get another one, which I proceeded to examine for 10 minutes before leaving.". http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=114373

Is there any chance of taking this up with the seller?

slamfire · Post by **slamfire** » Tue May 25, 2010 7:35 pm

Thanks for posting that, Bruce. I read it some time ago and couldn't find it again. That's one reason I looked at the locking bolts so closely - this is a pre-CNC rifle, too. I wonder how many just got shot-in, eventually. Not what I want to do, though. Too bad Interarms is not still in business and just down the road.

Yes, madman, this is insanity. Guns are sometimes like women in that regard. We love them for how they make us feel and we think that we can just fix them if there's a problem. In fact, we sometimes like fixing them if they're worth it and will stay with us forever. And we always think we'll be the lucky one. Me, not so much, anymore.

Tycer · Post by **Tycer** » Tue May 25, 2010 8:34 pm

madman4570 wrote:Welcome slamfire! (sounds like a bummer on your gun)

Guys I just dont get it.This is a new gun?
A brand new gun (why should it need anything)until its been used and broke in/then evaluated?
If I had to monkey around with that kind of stuff,that would be one gun I wouldnt buy???????

The Winchester 1892, designed by John Moses Browning is one of THE finest firearms ever designed IMHO.

I cannot afford a mint original 1892 of any caliber.

I like the .357 round very much.

If I have to spend $40 and a couple hours hand fitting a gun to that same buttery clickety clack of an original JMB with less than $500 in the gun I consider that a sweet deal!

Thanks to Nate and Shawn, I have just that.

I have a new BLR and Win 1886 EL that I spent considerably more time on due to barrel issues. Love them too.

Some people don't care about detail. They suffer through mediocrity in a until they forget it's mediocre or they sell it or bury in the back of the safe. Not me. I love that hand-finished perfection in any machine. If I can't afford it, I finish it myself.

Tycer · Post by **Tycer** » Tue May 25, 2010 8:36 pm

So is it the receiver or the bolt that is out of whack?

slamfire · Post by **slamfire** » Tue May 25, 2010 8:50 pm

I think it's the bolt. Don't know for sure.

AJMD429 · Post by **AJMD429** » Tue May 25, 2010 9:05 pm

As far as 'punches' go, SETS of them are cheap, and I'd just be sure you have a good set of steel straight-pin punches, a few brass ones, and even a nylon one or two. I don't think I've ever bought a specific single punch.

I'd not 'fix' much until you see how it does on its own. Then, I'd get some spares of all the breakable parts while you're ordering the 'improved' ones.

AJMD429 · Post by **AJMD429** » Tue May 25, 2010 9:18 pm

slamfire wrote:The left locking bolt does not come to bear, at all, on the rear of the bolt. The right locking bolt bears so hard on the bolt that it cants the bolt face slightly to the left on closing with no case in the chamber. The left locking bolt floats free at all times and there are no wear marks where it should bear on the bolt. This can't be normal.

I've often wondered about that issue on bolt-action (manual and semiauto) rifles, with the two-lug, three-lug, and however-many-the-AR-15-has-lug bolts out there - how many truly share the load between those surfaces, when you get right down to it, and does the eventual friction from the bolt's use or peening from pressure eventually 'fix' it...?

I suppose a 'loose' bolt with only two or three lugs could rock a bit to share the load, but that has always bugged me.

madman4570 · Post by **madman4570** » Tue May 25, 2010 10:35 pm

Tycer wrote:
madman4570 wrote:Welcome slamfire! (sounds like a bummer on your gun)

Guys I just dont get it.This is a new gun?
A brand new gun (why should it need anything)until its been used and broke in/then evaluated?
If I had to monkey around with that kind of stuff,that would be one gun I wouldnt buy???????

The Winchester 1892, designed by John Moses Browning is one of THE finest firearms ever designed IMHO.

I cannot afford a mint original 1892 of any caliber.

I like the .357 round very much.

If I have to spend $40 and a couple hours hand fitting a gun to that same buttery clickety clack of an original JMB with less than $500 in the gun I consider that a sweet deal!

Thanks to Nate and Shawn, I have just that.

I have a new BLR and Win 1886 EL that I spent considerably more time on due to barrel issues. Love them too.

Some people don't care about detail. They suffer through mediocrity in a until they forget it's mediocre or they sell it or bury in the back of the safe. Not me. I love that hand-finished perfection in any machine. If I can't afford it, I finish it myself.

ya know, really that makes darn good sense!
Good info for someone (myself)that dont know much about Rossi guns .(and not much about many other types of guns too)
Point well taken--------Thanks

Tycer · Post by **Tycer** » Wed May 26, 2010 8:35 am

I just inspected mine. The right locking lug is tighter than the left and there is a tiny visible gap on the left. The bolt does not cant to the left in the least. It seems to me that some fitting of the locking lug channel on the right side of your bolt might be in order. Just enough to keep the bolt from being forced left. My 1906 is also tighter on the right-ejector?

I would not touch that part of it until I removed both the ejector and extractor to eliminate any possibility that they may be the culprits.

I also consider myself above average in the love-to-tinker-mechanical-aptitude-shade-tree-mechanic-jack-of-all-trades-just-enough-knowledge-to-get-myself-in-trouble kind of guy and attack this stuff with a fearless abandon.

If that ain't you, Nate would be my choice.

slamfire · Post by **slamfire** » Fri May 28, 2010 7:15 pm

Just ordered an ejector spring from NKJ. And I wanted to thank him for laying out the simple history of the Rossi 92 and its importers. Someone ought to write a book. Nate?
I kinda wish I had waited to find a later model than mine, post-CNC, pre-safety. This one has some niggling, small machining irregularities and the aforementioned problem. I'm sure it will all get sorted out with some shooting and a little work. It will cycle ammo. It will go bang and send bullet down range. Over and over, again, hopefully.
As far as the punch goes, I only want to own the punches I use. Don't need a set. But thanks.

O.S.O.K. · Post by **O.S.O.K.** » Fri May 28, 2010 7:39 pm

Just wanted to say welcome to the fire and when you get ready to purchase another one - like a 44 Mag or 45 Colt, then just ask and we should be able to point you to a good deal.

Looking forward to the range reports!

slamfire · Post by **slamfire** » Fri Jun 11, 2010 7:50 pm

Thanks, OSOK. I wish I had looked in here before taking the plunge. I just got a little impatient and didn't know quite enough to make the right decision.

The spring I ordered from Steve was shipped in 3 days and I received it a few days later. Can't ask for much more than that. Now I just have to find time to work on the rifle.

Got a chance to go to the range for a short time yesterday - no time to get fancy with targets, just wanted to see how it ran. Not bad on 100 yd silouettes though with .357. Glad I had a slip-on recoil pad. Shot some older custom 160g jsp hunting loads and Hornady Frontier 125g jhp, which flew a little flatter. The gun cycled 10 rounds of both .38 and .357 with no problem so at least that's OK.

An interesting thing happened: The older gentlemen next to me was shooting a Uberti lever in .357 and was into CAS. We talked about the rifles and he offered to let shoot his Uberti. So I load a few of the Frontier cartridges and get ready to rock. The first round had a full case separation, blowing back onto my forhead, mostly (that's why we wear glasses). And then the round did not extract. He had to did the base out with a small screwdriver and then drive a cast bullet down the barrel with a long rod to force the rest of the case out (he had a lot of stuff with him). Never seen anything like it. I like the feel of the Rossi better, incidently, and it's a lot less expensive.

When I get done with this rifle it will be faster but not much of a looker. Just a little too rough.

firefuzz · Post by **firefuzz** » Sat Jun 12, 2010 7:11 am

slamfire wrote:As far as the punch goes, I only want to own the punches I use. Don't need a set. But thanks.

IMHO a good set of punches and a better set of GUN screw drivers are the first tools a gun tinkerer needs. The punches are really fairly cheap...the screwdrivers (key words here are good and gun) not so much.

BTW, welcome to the fire and good luck with your rifle.

Rob

slamfire · Post by **slamfire** » Thu Jul 01, 2010 8:01 pm

Haven't had a chance to dissasemble the rifle, yet, but I have noticed a problem I need to tackle when I do. Rounds seem to hang-up about half way in when loading. What should I look for when I get it apart? I have shortened the tube spring and cleaned-out the tube - pretty dirty in there - and Gun Juiced it.
I do have a set of good screwdrivers.
Thanks for everyone's comments and help.

Pete44ru · Post by **Pete44ru** » Fri Jul 02, 2010 10:26 am

FWIW, you can save yourself quite a bit of agita during Model 92 re-assembly, if you remember to snap an empty case into the bolt face/chamber to keep the EJ confined.

.

COSteve · Post by **COSteve** » Fri Jul 02, 2010 11:13 am

madman4570 wrote:Welcome slamfire! (sounds like a bummer on your gun)

Guys I just dont get it.This is a new gun?
A brand new gun (why should it need anything)until its been used and broke in/then evaluated?
If I had to monkey around with that kind of stuff,that would be one gun I wouldnt buy???????

Not to be argumentative, but it's clear you haven't bought a new firearm in a while. Everything I've bought in the last 10 years gets an action/trigger job before I even bother to shoot it as none have fitted parts like they use to. I'm talking about Rossi leverguns, Uberti SAAs, RRA AR15s, Ruger 10/22s, Marlins Model 60, Glocks, and I even slicked up my Henry 22 a bit.

I've looked at new Marlin 39As & 336s, Mossberg 424s, Win 92s, Win 95s, Uberti 73s, Colt & Bushmaster ARs, Ruger Blackhawks, Colt SAAs, among many others and they all need some action and trigger jobs before they're as smooth as I require.

gak · Post by **gak** » Sat Jul 03, 2010 12:05 pm

COSteve wrote:
madman4570 wrote:Welcome slamfire! (sounds like a bummer on your gun)

Guys I just dont get it.This is a new gun?
A brand new gun (why should it need anything)until its been used and broke in/then evaluated?
If I had to monkey around with that kind of stuff,that would be one gun I wouldnt buy???????
Not to be argumentative, but it's clear you haven't bought a new firearm in a while. Everything I've bought in the last 10 years gets an action/trigger job before I even bother to shoot it as none have fitted parts like they use to. I'm talking about Rossi leverguns, Uberti SAAs, RRA AR15s, Ruger 10/22s, Marlins Model 60, Glocks, and I even slicked up my Henry 22 a bit.

I've looked at new Marlin 39As & 336s, Mossberg 424s, Win 92s, Win 95s, Uberti 73s, Colt & Bushmaster ARs, Ruger Blackhawks, Colt SAAs, among many others and they all need some action and trigger jobs before they're as smooth as I require.

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Steve, you make some good points. I'm the same especially with single actions regardless of make from Ubertis to Colts--with a very few exceptions, they do not make it to the range without some initial tune up. Some are better than others out of the box. None have needed nothing--whether it's timing, trigger, hammer, deburr, etc. (But sometimes just some shooting or 'dry' levering does it). I just about include this in my original budgeting of the gun--and am fortunate to have one of the best in the country just down the road to accommodate me.

I'm also the same with guitars. With the ones I've bought new (or used for that matter) over the years, they've gone straight to the "smith." Actually not a bad analogy. I view just about all of them as a projects in progress, and some from the get-go as strictly potential, great platforms for the eventual guns I want them to be.
Real life budget considerations intervene all too regularly in this scheme, but it makes it interesting to me. Like overtly buying the "runt" of the litter, I've purposefully taken the one others have passed over, the "dinged one" or the one with a little hiccup in the action, knowing they're (usually) easily fixable--and therefore not deal killers. I'm talking when decent savings are realized or other more perfect guns at a decent price are not--and won't soon be--evident, as well as being inherently good firearms--which I believe virtually any Rossi 92 to be--and not a substandard manufacturer from the start.

To madman's credit, he did acknowledge a learning curve a few posts back. Gotta respect a guy/gal admitting to needing a little learning.

COSteve · Post by **COSteve** » Sat Jul 03, 2010 3:38 pm

Hey, I've learned a ton from forums like this over the years and I'm not ashamed to admit it when I don't know something. I figure that's how we do learn new things.

As far as my comment, I too enjoy tinkering with a less than perfect firearm because I know I can get a better price because of the roughness and I also know I can figure out how to make it right. My comment really was meant to 'dis' the manufacturers for putting out some really bad stuff these days.

Heck, people sing the praises of Henry Arms producing a decent product these days because it's so unusual. It's a sad reflection on the manufacturing quality (or really lack thereof) that people have come to accept.

slamfire · Post by **slamfire** » Tue Aug 10, 2010 8:29 pm

I finally got around to doing the action job on this rifle and I have hit a dead end. My problem is that I can't get the ejector and spring to stay in place. I replaced the spring with one of Nate's and cleaned up the ejector with some mild stoning to make it work easier. I have tried about five times now to reassemble the rifle and everything seems to go alright except that the ejector becomes dislocated when I install the lever. I am using a .357 case to hold everything together and I have tried different ways of holding the gun during assembly. I am getting pretty good at the process but this is extremely frustrating. Any help would be appreciated before I lose my mind.

Griff · Post by **Griff** » Tue Aug 10, 2010 8:57 pm

slamfire wrote:I finally got around to doing the action job on this rifle and I have hit a dead end. My problem is that I can't get the ejector and spring to stay in place. I replaced the spring with one of Nate's and cleaned up the ejector with some mild stoning to make it work easier. I have tried about five times now to reassemble the rifle and everything seems to go alright except that the ejector becomes dislocated when I install the lever. I am using a .357 case to hold everything together and I have tried different ways of holding the gun during assembly. I am getting pretty good at the process but this is extremely frustrating. Any help would be appreciated before I lose my mind.

Yes, it can be frustrating... the '92 can be a bear. But... if you have the case hooked under the extractor claw, started into the chamber, you should be able to push the bolt all the way up to where the holes line up for the lever/bolt pin. The "ears" of the ejector must be in the bolt before the ejector will stay in place.