OT- rawhide lashing

[firefuzz]

My step-son accidentally broke my walking staff this summer at camp. It was a good cause, killing a copperhead snake that had just bitten a camper...he was just a tad too slow. Anyway, it's just a cane handled staff that cost about $10 but I've had it for over 20 years and it and I have more than a few miles together and I'd like to try to fix it.

It's badly cracked on two different planes in the grain about a third of the way up from the bottom. I bought a 2"x6' piece of rawhide that I'm thinking about splitting into two strips and wet wrapping the break area with. I've never done this before and and seeking advice or info on how would be the best way to go about it.

Should I try and fill the cracks with epoxy before I wrap it?

What's the best way to secure the ends?

Anything else?

Thanks,,

Rob

[shooter]

I don't have much experience with the rawhide lashing, so I can't help much there. I do repair a lot of wooden furniture for the company I work for, and I have found that Titebond wood glue seems to hold better and be stronger than any epoxy I've found. We did some tests on a couple of different epoxies vs. the Titebond, and the epoxies were beaten out in short order.

I would use the Titebond and some clamps to glue it, then do the lashing after the glue is dry. There are a couple of ways to do the repair. You could also drill it out and use a wooden dowel depending on how it's broken.

[AJMD429]

If you're depending on the cane for actual support while hiking or walking, I'd either replace it, or make sure there's lots of epoxy and strong reinforcement throughout it.

If it's just a thing you use to poke dead things with, or hit obnoxious cub-scouts with (just kidding, Y2K, really... ), you have a bit more latitude.

[Blaine]

I'd superglue, or epoxy, and wrap it real tight until it sets and cures, then dowel rod it with same glue in a couple places. Prolly be stronger at the repair than anyplace else.

[KCSO]

Get some Brownell's Acra Glass Gel and glue and fill the cracks. Then cut yur rawhide into strips and wet well. Bind the staff with the wet rawhide and tuck under the end of the wrap. Let it dry hard and then coat it with waterproofing, cactus juice works ok and so does Tru Oil if you don't have any prickly pear handy. I did a stock on my son's M/L this way in 1988 and it's shot over 1000 rounds since then with no problems.

[octagon]

If the cracks will open slightly, use your fingers to force Titebond wood glue into them, opening and closing the cracks by flexing the wood gently. You can thin the glue with a little water if you need to get more penetration. Use plenty of glue. Wipe off excess with a damp cloth and wrap lightly with saran wrap. Take a bicycle intertube and cut it across so it is one long tube. Cut a one inch wide strip so you have a giant rubber band. Tie it a few inches above the cracks and wrap the staff very tightly along the length of the cracks, tying off the loose end. This band supplies a crushing amount of clamping power you cannot get with regular clamps. Allow to dry 24 hours, remove the band and saran wrap, and clean off excess glue with a wet towel.
Have your band cut before you begin. Wetting the crack slightly before you glue will provide extra penetration through capillary action.
Do not use super glue - it is brittle.
Dot NOT dowel it - that only removes original material, and makes a weaker joint.
Do Not store your wood glued staff in a summer-hot car trunk, wood glue gives way at 140-150 degrees or so.
Good luck, This message will self destruct in 7.3 seconds.

[Blaine]

Dot NOT dowel it - that only removes original material, and makes a weaker joint.

Just like re-bar in concrete, eh? Interlocking wood pieces are used for nearly ALL joints.

[Gobblerforge]

Also a little compressed air can be used to shove glue deep into a crack. Just short shots though.
Gobbler

[octagon]

Gobblerforge: the compressed air sounds like a cool technique - will have to try it!

TTT: I have operated my own repair shop for about 20 years - full time since '96. As a Luthier, I fix mostly busted guitars, violins etc. I fix ALOT of cracked wood, many times they have been "fixed" by amateurs before they reach my shop. I could not count the number of failed doweled "repairs" I have encountered. Outside of furniture repair, they are in my opinion seldom a good option for cracks. In fact using dowels to repair cracks is THE hallmark of the neophyte repairman. I have used the giant rubber band method many dozens of times, and have never had one fail - this is a good thing as I offer a 100% guarantee on my work - no questions asked!

[Blaine]

Gobblerforge: the compressed air sounds like a cool technique - will have to try it!

TTT: I have operated my own repair shop for about 20 years - full time since '96. As a Luthier, I fix mostly busted guitars, violins etc. I fix ALOT of cracked wood, many times they have been "fixed" by amateurs before they reach my shop. I could not count the number of failed doweled "repairs" I have encountered. Outside of furniture repair, they are in my opinion seldom a good option for cracks. In fact using dowels to repair cracks is THE hallmark of the neophyte repairman. I have used the giant rubber band method many dozens of times, and have never had one fail - this is a good thing as I offer a 100% guarantee on my work - no questions asked!

The thin wood on stringed instruments is a bit different, don't you think? Furniture is exactly what comes to mind when discussing this repair. I am not disputing the wrapping with an elastic piece. It's the best way to hold a repair while gluing.

BTW, how are you on old Gibson (1930s) guitars? I'd like to find out what one is worth.

[octagon]

TTT: The Banding technique I refer too is almost always used on necks: guitar, banjo, uke, uprights etc, not the thinner wood on tops, backs and sides. I used to be a fair hand at pricing old guitars - fire away! Any pics?
I'll be gone tomorrow to the ranch for chores etc. for two days but I'll check this thread in the AM.