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Moving the bolt to battery seemed a little stiff so I took the action apart and cleaned and inspected everything and put it back together.
Up front I have never shot / handled a different 94 so I don't know how to compare the last portion of the cycle .... as the rising lug comes up it seems I have to squeeze or press fairly hard to get the bolt to complete battery. Also, I noticed the notch on the barrel face seemed to have a wear spot from a possible alignment from the bolt face notch? I could not get the bolt to close completely by hand ....but the rising lug presses in fine / consistently .... does the wear spot on the barrel face seem correct? (Horrible picture attached)
94-2.jpg
2nd issue:
Hoping that i put everything back together correctly i notice the (not sure what you call it) 'dowel' in the rising lug can be pressed by hand and doesn't have any tension.... (When in battery) .....I must have not done something right as i would think that it should have some tension? i believe i have the pin oriented correctly ... but, i can also move it by hand with no tension with the lug down. I have no way to test fire without driving 60 miles.... and don't want to get there and can't shoot the gun
94-1.jpg
Sorry for the newb questions ... but, i learn by taking things apart.... ...
dan
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First when the bolt goes into battery the extractor at the top has to pop over the top of the case rim. Many times the extractor is rough on the underside of the hook where it contacts the rim. This causes resistance. And yes the extractor hook can and does sometimes leave wear marks in it's slot in the barrel.
I would polish the bottom of the extractor smooth first and see if that helps.
Second the little plunger in the locking bolt has no springs at all. It's just pinned in. With the locking lug out it will just move back and forth with no effort at all. In the rifle it contacts the rear of the firing pin witch limits it's travel. Your second picture shows a correct installation of the parts.
I don't think you have much if anything to worry about. As old as that gun is if something were wrong it would have broken by now. Some of the post 64s were not a nicely fitted as we'd like, but they work.
Joe
***Be sneaky, get closer, bust the cap on him when you can put the ball where it counts .***
That last little fraction of bolt travel when closing it is also compressing the ejector spring, which is fairly stout.
Your picture isnt very clear, but it looks like the shiny spot is from the front/lower face of the extractor. I believe all make some contact there. You will see the extractor move up slightly as you close the bolt.
"Far better it is to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs even though checkered by failure, than to rank with those poor spirits who neither enjoy nor suffer much because they live in the gray twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat." -Theodore Roosevelt-
Isnt it amazing how many people post without reading the thread?
You will get the best info right here on levergund, but... I have found some very good videos on Youtube with step by step dis and re-assembly of the 94 and the different models.
Thanks again for the help ... It dawned on me that I could take an empty round and see if it would strike / fire the primer. Worked like a champ.
Next question ..... I noticed when the bolt is completely closed the top portion (assume extractor?) raises up quit a bit. I see that the piece is hinged and returns to a flat / even position when pulled back / released from a closed position.
Does the portion being raised that much seem to be correct? Apologies for not using the correct names for the parts.....
Thanks in advance --
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Way better pics. Yes, the center portion that you're observing raising up is the extractor. It HAS to raise to go over the case rim and be able to pull out the case after firing (or not, if you're just cycling). But, yes, it will either rise because it's going over the rim of a cartridge, or if it's just being pushed into the extractor cut in the breech of the barrel. It is spring steel, and is pinned into the boltl. Usual problems encountered are dirt and grit under the extractor that don't allow the extractor enough downward force to grip a tight case in the chamber and extract it... wear on the face of the extractor that also won't let it function properly.
Griff,
SASS/CMSA #93
NRA Patron
GUSA #93
There is a fine line between hobby & obsession! AND... I'm over it!!
No I ain't ready, but let's do it anyway!
In addition to what Griff just said, I have noticed a big variation in the strength or tension of the extractors. Some are stiffer than others. As long as they work properly, other than polishing the angled face and making sure they are clean underneath, I just ignore them.
Joe
***Be sneaky, get closer, bust the cap on him when you can put the ball where it counts .***
.***
