trimming and crimping 30-30

[happyhunter]

I have been reloading pistol ammo for a few years. Just recently started reloading bottleneck cases. Weird. The 30-30 is especially confusing with crimping the case. I don't think I do it right. A friend told me to skip trimming the case and to "bounce" crimp it. I don't think I am crimping enough because I found a couple that were pushed back after unloading after a hunt.

So first question: What is the trim to length for the case? My Hornady book does not list a trim to length, just a case length (I guess max length). I have the data from the Sierra book. It lists trim to as 2.029" but I have no other source to verify that.

Second question: after all the cases are the same length, how do I crimp? What should it look like? Like a 357 Mag case? All the factory 30-30 ammo I have seen has some crimp that looks like several "things" came in from the side and smashed the mouth against the bullet (not at all like a 357 Mag case)

Thanks for the help,
HH

[FWiedner]

My Hornady lists the trim length as 2.029", 8th Ed. Pg 459.

Buy a Lee Factory Crimp die. 30/30 SKU 90822, $14.98

[pokey]

trim length is not critical 2.019 to 2.040 will work.
uniformity is more important, so you can set your crimper
to have the same effect on all cases.

i don't know what bounce crimp is.
the two kinds you will find are roll crimp [similar to a .357]
and the lee factory crimp [ a collet die, "several things pressing in"]

i like the lee factory crimp die, some do not. personal preference.

also lee makes a case trimmer that has a built in measure, just spin until it stops cutting.
mostly 30wcf doesn't stretch enough to need much trimming, though.

[Griff]

I trim mine to 2.020. Usually never have to trim them again. Are you using a bullet with a cannelure? If so, here's my tips on setting the seat/crimp die on a RCBS standard dies. (Although it's using a .45Colt, the theory is the same).

[happyhunter]

I have been using a Sierra 125Gr HP bullet. It does have a cannelure.

Thanks,
HH

[Nath]

I too used the Lee factory crimp die thing for my 30/30 loads but have gone off it!

I sometimes wondered if it caused the brass below the crimp to come away from the bullet!

All my hornet, 222 , 6.5 and 308 have been roll crimped over the years and I will stick with that from now on.

Best wishes.

N.

[J Miller]

I sat down one month and trimmed all my empty 30-30 cases to the same length. I "think" it was 2.029" but don't quote me cos I'd have to check my records. After trimming them I inside and outside chamfered the cases.

Then when I started loading them I found out that I could get a really nice roll crimp from the seating die crimper as the bullet was seated. I also found out that the Lee FCD doesn't work worth a hoot with Hornady bullets. Their crimp grove is so deep the LFCD can't crimp enough to get to the bottom of the grove.

My crimp with the seating die crimp ring looks basically like the edge of the case mouth is turned into the crimp grove till it contacts the bottom of the grove. That's it. No crushing of the case mouth, no great ridge around the edge of the case, just a nicely turned in case mouth.

If you keep your cases trimmed to the correct length and set your dies correctly the Lee FCD is an unnecessary expense. It's basically a shortcut for those who don't prep their cases and dies properly.

Joe

[Pisgah]

Another thing -- if you are seating and crimping in one step, make it two steps. Adjust your die to seat only and seat all your bullets; then, go back and adjust the die to crimp only and run each round through. Takes a bit more time, but gives a much more consistent crimp. AND -- be sure your resizing die is adjusted for a full-length resize. Proper neck tension has more to do with keeping bullets in place than crimping, and failing to acheive full sizing leads to loose bullets and inconsistent crimp.

[336A]

Some of you may remember the hard time I was having withgetting reloads to shoot well out my Marlin, as I posted all sorts of various questions.I found that in order to get my Marlin to shoot accurately that I must trim my brass to 2.029". I then seat a Sierra 150gr bullet to the specs used in the Sierra manual using they're accuracy data for H322 which IIRC is 29.7gr. When I do that whew look out because that rifle shoots like a target rifle no kidding, as in three bulets in one hole at 100yd I spent a lot of long and frustrating hours trying to figure my rifle and loads out. I tried all sorts of different bullets, primers, and powders, all combinations were nothing short of futile. Then I found out quite by accident that if my brass wasn't trimmed to 2.029" forget about it.

I do use the LFC though as at this point I don't dare mess with anything. It took a lot of my time, head banging, and hair pulling frustration to get this ironed out. At times I wanted to take that rifle and wrap it around the nearest tree post haste. Now that I now what the problem is I'm all set, I didn't know what a big deal trimming brass in a levergun gun made until then.

[Chuck 100 yd]

I seat and crimp as separate steps also.
I do it that way with every caliber that I load and that get crimped.

[FWiedner]

If you keep your cases trimmed to the correct length and set your dies correctly the Lee FCD is an unnecessary expense. It's basically a shortcut for those who don't prep their cases and dies properly.

Joe

I clean and trim all of my rifle cases, and then I clean them again. Seems to me that the roll crimp applied by the seating die doesn't alway apply a firm enough crimp. I'd call it undependable in many cases. I seat and crimp as two steps for every caliber I load.

The FCD applies a good firm crimp, and it also works well on bullets that either don't have a factory cannelure or where the factory cannelure might not be placed for a preferred seating depth.

As an example, consider the Hornady .358 200gr RN bullets. The cannelure is placed perfectly for use in a .358Win but makes the OAL too long for a .356Win. It's got to be seated deeper and crimped off the cannelure.

[Griff]

Three loaded rounds, left, RCBS roll crimp using one seating/crimp step; middle, Lee Factory Crimp Die; right, uncrimped; and the bullet, a 6:1 WW/Linotype Saeco #316 mold, gas-checked. These were shot with 27-½ grains of RL-7, a fairly max load.

As I said back in Feb, 2009 before a comparison test:

Some pre-shooting thoughts: 1-I don't do a heavy roll crimp, and I've never had a bullet pushed back into a case. 2-Trimming, deburring and then adding the factory crimp, seems more work, so if the factory crimp eliminates the trimming and deburring that entails... maybe... tomorrow will tell. 3-The Lee factory crimp seems heavy, leaves a couple (4) burrs on the outside of the brass. 4-I can definitely see its value with bullets without a cannelure. I have a BUNCH of Sierra bullets seconds in their .307 125grain hollow point that don't have a cannelure... picked 'em up at the factory before they moved to Missouri. (Another of CA's sad losses.)

My final three 5-shot groups with each crimp type were:
1st group of 5: Roll: 3-½", LFCD: 5-15/16"
2nd group of 5: Roll: 5", LFCD: 5-15/16"
3rd group of 5: Roll: 5", LFCD: 5-15/16"

Poor shootin', even for me! I might redo this, now that I ain't under job pressures, and when it's WARMER!

[Dave]

Lee makes a good case trimming tool that goes on your drill. That way you never have to set a trimmer. Easy and always the same.

You need a tight enough crimp that your bullet is not pushed back into the case. That can cause too much pressure if it gets seated too deeply. Usually if you crimp enough that you can put the nose of the bullet of the loaded round on the side of your bench and push without it moving that is enough crimp.

The crimp is just like a crimp on a pistol round. I seat and crimp in one step and get good accuracy.

http://leeprecision.com/case-conditioni ... ing-tools/

[rjohns94]

lots of good info. I love learning and this seems to be the place for learning on this topic.