Waaay OT- April Visit to the California Coast?

[Woodtroll]

Hello, friends,

Although I live towards the east coast, I was fortunate enough to get the opportunity to visit the Big Sur area of California as a wildland firefighter early in my career (and that’s been YEARS ago!). I thought it was a beautiful area, although of course much different than my Blue Ridge mountain homeland. Additionally, I have always wanted to see the “big trees” along the Northern California coast, specifically Redwood National Park and some of the similar parks in that general area.
Years later now, I find myself with some time off coming up in mid-April, and my wife and I are toying with the idea of flying into Monterey, renting a car and driving up the coast along Highway 1, visiting some of the redwood parks, and then flying back home out of Crescent City. These destinations are very tentative, but will combine both areas that I’d like to see. We have a week or so to make the trip, but this will be a once-in-a-lifetime trip for us and so we’d like to take in as much as we can. We like scenery, history, and natural beauty, but that’s not to say we wouldn’t like to see the Golden Gate bridge, Bixby bridge, or any other sites that are tourist attractions (but not tourist traps!).

I know a lot of folks on this board are either from this general area or visit often, so would you mind giving me some advice, please? What kind of weather can we expect in mid-April; is this a decent time of year to visit if we don’t plan to get in the ocean? I would expect there would be at least some flowers blooming and trees leafed out by then, given that the coastline would moderate the weather? What points of interest would you recommend as “must see” places, keeping in mind our interests listed above? We have not yet decided whether we will be camping or staying in motels or lodges, but what are your favorite places to stay (campgrounds, cabins, motels)? We are considering staying mostly in state park cabins or something similar, if these are to be found along our route. Neither of us care for the bed-and-breakfast environment. Any particular airport or car rental company you might recommend?

We haven’t had time to do any extensive planning or research yet, as this opportunity just now fell into place, but I’m hoping some of you would be kind enough to get me started with ideas and suggestions!

Many thanks,
Regan

[M. M. Wright]

Don't use Alamo! Got hit in the side and they wanted to charge us for front end and rear end damage. Isn't that fraud?

[JReed]

It will be damp and chilly in the mornings and evenings. But its a nice time of year to go. Try and hit Hearst Castle.

[Larkbill]

My wife and I drove a big loop out of Oakland for our 30th ten years ago. I'm sure some things have changed but here are our favorites:

Jack London Square in Oakland. DON'T drive into San Francisco! We parked for free by Jack London Square and rode the ferry, my favorite part of Fisherman's Wharf were the various parts of the Maritime Museum. Ships on display plus several very good displays scattered through the area.

The 17 mile drive around Monterey

Winchester House in San Jose

Muir Beach overlook (my wife wouldn't walk all the way out to the very tip)

State Forest in Guerneville , even though not part of the Redwood Coast it has some of the largest examples.

We also drove through Sequoia Natl Park. But that's pretty far from the coast.

Towns along the way we enjoyed were Paso Robles, and Petaluma.

[Mike Armstrong]

Plenty to see if it isn't covered with fog and rain! The last time I drove from Monterey to Cambria along the cliff (Rte. 1), it was so foggy one morning near Big Sur (Garapata Creek) that I had to walk along in front of the car and direct my wife to keep her on the road and out of the ocean until we found a turn-out so we could wait for the stuff to blow away. Like driving in white paint!

However, I did see a very large bobcat sitting on the cliff above the road about 25 yards from me, watching me with his big yellow eyes. And lots of sea otters in the kelp, once we could actually SEE the ocean. And dolphins. And two whales.

And when you can see, you need go slow, stop every few turnouts, and then take in the scenery.

Don't try to do it while you are driving. I almost BECAME part of the scenery that way!

Binoculars!!! Camera!!!! Have fun!

P.S. You'll need a designated driver; many wineries along there.....

[Blaine]

If you can get a bit north of that, Eureka is pretty dang nice. I loved all the Victorian Houses. I think it's where all the old Hippies go to die, too

[jdad]

Following up the coast.............

Don't forget the Monterey Bay Aquarium. It will take at least a half day.

The Winchester Mystery House, in San Jose, is literally on the corner of Interstate 280 and Winchester Blvd.

Santa Cruz or Santa "Crud" as it has become has the boardwalk and next to it, at Lighthouse Point, are the surfers.

[getitdone1]

Although it's further inland than you plan to be, Yosemite National Park would be the number one choice, for many people, of what to see in California. Believe May is the prime month for the beautiful water falls but maybe April is also pretty good. A really beautiful place.

Don

[gak]

Your fly and rent idea's a good one. One good thing about that time of year is it's still prior to bad summer traffic, Winnebagos and such. I forget some of the specific redwood locations, but a few are an area just off (west) of the highway from San Jose to Santa Cruz, closer to the latter than former. Also much further north through the Jedediah Smith (?) Redwood park that spans from 1/101 over toward I-5 south of the Oregon border. Also, south of there, just east of Hwy 1 beteeen the Russian River, Mendocino and where the coastal highway veers inland a ways. An area called Three Rivers comes vaguely to mind. With proper planning, California has some nice state park camping grounds -- one just immediately south of Mendocino just across the highway from the beach.

Much further south (forget north or south of Bixby bridge) is one of my favorite spots on the whole coast, outlook wise is Ragged Point. One if the very few service station/restroom break spots from San Simeon to Big Sur, just a short walk puts you right among the cypresses on the cliff 500 feet above crashing surf. There's also a nice motel there, Ragged Point Inn I think, with very nice restaurant associated. Not cheap but not ultra hoyty toyty, a nice spot for a real bed and nice eats. We used to camp one night, motel the next on drives like you're contemplating, for a good mix of $ savings, but getting at least an every other day shower and good bed to keep the humor snd spirits up, as a plan. There's a state park/beach campground near iSan Simeon (just walk under the highway for beach access). ..then overnight with a real bed at Ragged Point...then camp in Big Sur, motel again on Monterey (a little known nicer-than-usual Motel 6 near Marina just north of Monterey off the 101 that also has nearby access to the beach), etc etc. Some of the campgrounds have hot showere. I know the above mentioned Mendocino one does. Sightseeing-wise, a neat tip in Big Sur is the very easy to miss access Julia Pfeiffer Big Sur beach....this is the one on all the post cards with the waterfall. Only public road access to a besch in the mostly inland-oriented Big Sur area. Ask locally and get a good detailed map. Last I was there (admittedlly several years now) the little windy 1.5 laner down through the woods to the beach wasnt even marked off the the main (1) highway. Once at the bottom, surpisingly there's a bona fide parking lot with rest rooms nearby...then a short walk through the trees and you're on the beach. As you may know, most if the area north of Santa Barbara is hyoothermia ciuntry and no one ever goes in the water (great whites too) except die hard surfers in required wet suits....so this is strictly strolling and sunbathing territory at most.

a nice spot to spend a fee hours is the Point Lobos (?) Natural area just south of Carmel. Great easy hikes overlooking seal rookeries, etc.

Another great pullover is at or near the often photographed Pigeon Point lighthouse north of Santa Cruz...a great strolling beach there that, last I checked, didn't seem to belong to anyone. No state park or private signs anywhere oi could see, I used to informally pitch my tent right on the beach, not a soul in sight, though those days may well be over. Frsnkly, I hope the state's taken over by now making it into a state park, protecting against someone stringing a fence snd keep out sign...even if it means just a day-park and no more informal beach camping,

Some nice map references here to flip through to help plan your redeood tour -http://www.google.com/#q=map+of+califor ... lDx1T5M%3A

[new pig hunter]

My suggestion would be to fly into San Luis Obispo, which is the southern end of the best parts of Hwy 1. Driving north, you'll pass all those places the other posters are telling you about: Cambria, Hearst Castle, Big Sur, Bixby Bridge,etc etc. (Those places are south of Monterey, and if you visit them you'd have to ultimately backtrack to get to Crescent City).

Or fly into Crescent City and do the drive south to SLO.

Cheers,

Carl

[Old Ironsights]

And for an opposing view from the Peanut Gallery...

Why in the effing hades would you want to go where the State .gov would happily incarcerate you forever for simply being a Constitutionalist?

Yes, Cali is pretty. Yes, there is fun/cool stuff to do there.

The same can be said for NYC and DC as well... and if you step out of their Statist Line they will feed you to Petunia in the Pokey.

I will NEVER, EVER, set foot on the Left Coast again... unless it is to Repel Boarders with Gun in Hand.

[Woodtroll]

Thanks very much for the input and advice, folks, especially those who made specific suggestions. I work a 24-hour shift so I can't always get back here to reply, but I really do appreciate all of the help. The only time and place I have been in California is in a fire camp along the Big Sur in August '85, so it's been a long time and my exposure was limited to just the one area. I do remember it being fairly cool and often foggy along the coast, which made for good sleeping after a long night shift on the fire line, but once we moved inland the climate changed dramatically!

Politics aside, I promised my wife I would take her to see that coastline some day. I'm all ears if anyone else has any suggestions.

Thanks again for all your help,
Regan

[rjohns94]

Lived in Monterey and San Diego. We use to ride our tandem north and hit weekends along the coast. Ran the big sur marathon out there. Also played pebble beach gold course with Clint Eastwood. (Worked as a bar tender at his ranch in Carmel during the ATT pro am and he offered that as a bonus). Use to mountain bike inMarion county above the San Fran bridge. Spent time in Muir woods taking in the sequoias. Beautiful country. Lots of people but highly worth the trip. Loved my two years in Monterey. I think you will enjoy ur trip

[Old Savage]

Thing to consider in April is the unpredictability of the weather - lots there to see, beautiful stuff. Never been any further up than Bodega Bay.

[mikld]

FWIW; Crescent City airport is small, one room about 20x30, you have to go outside into another building for security check, then walk out across a short path, outside to the airplanes. Fog is a major problem, both at Crescent City and at San Francisco (If S.F. is fogged in, flights at Crescent City can be delayed or canceled, and many times Crescent City is fogged in). We've had friends flying up from S.F. get stranded for 6 hours, and once flights were cancelled a whole day.

I don't know all the aircraft names/designations but the airport won't service a plane as large as a 727. All are twin engine, turbo prop (?) mebbe 40 passengers (Otter comes to mind). We live in Brookings, 25 miles north in Oregon, and really enjoy going to, and flying out of Jack McNamara field. Heck of a lot better (IMHO) than LAX...

The Avenue of the Giants is a must see. In Humbolt State Park, 15 miles south of Fortuna, CA (which is 12 or so miles south of Eureka, CA. We almost settled in Fortuna, but even though it's way up in Northern CA, it's still in CA!). http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avenue_of_the_Giants

[mikld]

And for an opposing view from the Peanut Gallery...

Why in the effing hades would you want to go where the State .gov would happily incarcerate you forever for simply being a Constitutionalist?

Yes, Cali is pretty. Yes, there is fun/cool stuff to do there.

The same can be said for NYC and DC as well... and if you step out of their Statist Line they will feed you to Petunia in the Pokey.

I will NEVER, EVER, set foot on the Left Coast again... unless it is to Repel Boarders with Gun in Hand.

Wow O.I., tell us how you really feel. The OP stated he wants to visit the CA coast, not live there. The area he mentioned is one of the most beautiful places to visit in the US. Yep, CA residents are treated like dog dookie, but they love to see visitors/tourists. Unless the OP plans to carry (which would be a good trick getting his guns passed security/TSA) he will be treated as well as any citizen anywhere in the U.S. I also doubt he will try to make any firearms related purchases, and not have to put up with the politics, as he is only vacationing there. I left CA, with the CA craziness/politics as a major reason, but also I wanted to be able to enjoy the outdoors and unpolluted ocean, so I came to Oregon. I was in NYC for a while, and nope you're wrong, nuttin' there worth seeing enough to put up with the crowds and filth. Never been to DC, so I don't have an opinion yet. Just like the Grand Canyon, Mt. Rushmore, Florida Keys, The Alamo, The Blue Ridge Parkway, and a bunch I can't remember right now, everyone should at least once see the Northern CA and Oregon coast, and the Northern CA Redwoods...

[CowboyTutt]

Woodtroll, I'm a local who lives up in Ukiah, CA and I've previously explored the Big Sur coastline when I lived in Hollister, CA and have explored the Sonoma and Mendocino county coastline for the last 5 years on my motorcycle either by myself or on group rides. I've also done a fair amount of tent camping up here (anyone can "hotel camp"). I don't have the energy for a long post, but if you want to get a map of CA with some good detail and a pen (I recommend a high lighter), please call me and I'll give you tons of information. I'll PM you my phone number. I'll try to find a trip report I wrote some years ago here and post the link for you also. -Tutt

[CowboyTutt]

Found it.

http://www.levergunscommunity.com/viewt ... =1&t=28633

-Tutt

[Woodtroll]

Thanks, everyone, for all your help. There is a lot of very useful information here that we will try to absorb and use for our planning. Thanks also for those who took the time to offer messages and phone calls for individual discussions- I really do appreciate that.

Based on some of the things we've learned here, and the different prices of flights into different cities and the varied rental car costs, we are now considering the following: fly into Sacramento, rent a car, drive southwest to the coast near San Louis Obispo, drive north looking at the sea lions, sights, and little towns until we get to the redwoods, spend a day or two up there, and then turn inland and drive back down to Sacramento. We'd really like to squeeze in at least a day trip to Yosemite if we can manage the time. I know that we will only have time to scratch the surface in lots of places by trying to cover this much ground in 7-9 days, but we'd like to take in a broad overview of the state. Any suggestions on this plan?

Thanks again!
Regan

[jazman]

Your new plan is much better. Go directly South East from Sacramento to Yosemite, which will take you through the California Gold Country, lots to see. Spend the night at a hotel by Yosemite, then spend a day in Yosemite. Then head South West to San Luis Obispo and continue on North like you have stated. You will love the trip and see beauty like you won't believe. El Capitan in Yosemite is the largest single piece of granite ever discovered on earth, better than 3,000 feet high. Great to stand at the bottom, look up and see little tiny moving things, and realize they are climbers who love big walls. Personally, I think they are crazy; if I put on 2 pair of sox in the morning I get a little dizzy, but they are fun to watch for a bit. Enjoy your trip!

[jnyork]

Your new plan is much better. Go directly South East from Sacramento to Yosemite, which will take you through the California Gold Country, lots to see. Spend the night at a hotel by Yosemite, then spend a day in Yosemite. Then head South West to San Luis Obispo and continue on North like you have stated. You will love the trip and see beauty like you won't believe. El Capitan in Yosemite is the largest single piece of granite ever discovered on earth, better than 3,000 feet high. Great to stand at the bottom, look up and see little tiny moving things, and realize they are climbers who love big walls. Personally, I think they are crazy; if I put on 2 pair of sox in the morning I get a little dizzy, but they are fun to watch for a bit. Enjoy your trip!

This sounds like a good plan.

[Griff]

Your new plan is much better. Go directly South East from Sacramento to Yosemite, which will take you through the California Gold Country, lots to see. Spend the night at a hotel by Yosemite, then spend a day in Yosemite. Then head South West to San Luis Obispo and continue on North like you have stated. You will love the trip and see beauty like you won't believe. El Capitan in Yosemite is the largest single piece of granite ever discovered on earth, better than 3,000 feet high. Great to stand at the bottom, look up and see little tiny moving things, and realize they are climbers who love big walls. Personally, I think they are crazy; if I put on 2 pair of sox in the morning I get a little dizzy, but they are fun to watch for a bit. Enjoy your trip!

This sounds like a good plan.

+1.

But... Check on weather predictions for Yosemite. April, as someone else said, can be "iffy" weather-wise. Yosemite Spring. However, crowds will be at some of the lowesst, unless you're there during Easter Week break. Whatever you do... make sure you have plenty of SD cards for that camera. I would almost suggest going as far south as Santa Barbara, and make sure to include the missions on your itinerary.

[gak]

All of the above plans sound good, with i agree Sacramento the most sane transportation connection especially if Yosemite's on the menu..
I'll offer a slightly revised variation on the same theme. IF you've got the time, you can have (most of) it all. In my dozen or so coastal trips over the years I've found driving DOWN the coast to br the most rewarding. You're generally trending down slope in terms of coastal perspective, the coastline laid ot before you versus trying to peer over...and as a driver and especially your wife/companion that much closer to viewing the coast without either excessive craning of the neck or distraction from the road as a driver. A lot fewer white knuckle moments when trying to both drive (on a highway that demands focused attention) and respond to "look honey!" Over time, I've found this to be a big deal in enjoymrnt and full appreciation of the grandeur of the coast. Also makes pullovers at view points much easier snd safer, and as a result you'll find you'll do a lot more if them.

To accomplish this, do Yosemite last. Fly into Sacramento, then blast up 5 , thereby seeing Lassen and Shasta, (or cut over to 101 connecting via Clear Lake if wanting to get cliser to the coast early on)...then connect over to the coastal highway (1) via the Jedediah Redwoods just south if the Oregon border. Now begin the coastal drive south. First major stop Mendocino, then gotta see Bodega Bay just to say you did if just because of Hitcock's "The Birds." Then Pt Reyes seashore/nature preserve...then Golden Gate Bridge (before crossing, you gotta stop at the overlook on the Pacific side (where we had WWII gun emplacements) for an unparalled view of the bridge and city...and envision our battleships, destroyers and troop ships returning from Pacific action, the thought will leave a lump. After partaking what SF has to offer, making your way south checking iut the areas I and others have mentioned earlier, Monterey, Big Sur, etc. As someone mentioned about San Luis Obispo as the southern extreme of this journey, cut over from Santa Maria ?) To 5 to make time back toward Sacramento, but well shy of that city cut over (east) to Yosemite or even other national parks south of Yosemite if you've got time.

With this plan, there is admittedly a bit of dead time north and south on 5, but that's inevitable with any Sacramento-based trip..and at least it's fast dead miles, efficiently getting you to (and affording you more of) the spots or routes you want to spend quality time on.

[carbluesnake]

Go to the Avenue of the Giants if you are looking for Redwood. It is in the neighborhood of Eureka. Also, just south of Eureka is a town named Fortuna. It is a throwback in time. Many houses in Fortuna are in calendars showcasing victorian homes. Also, a beautiful cemetery there on a hill overlooking Fortuna, I believe it to be the town cemetery. As a forester in love with Redwood forests, this is the place to go. Don't miss it.

[Booger Bill]

I lived and worked in california for 40 years. Been to all of it. To start with, it wont be the best weather of the year. You WILL NOT be able to get over tioga or sonora pass`s in april! Its not like go just a couple miles farther up or down the mountain range and pick another road over the sierra range, it could be a days ride in itself one way. Weather should be nice in death valley. If there vegas aint much farther. I worked in yosemite, way up in willow creek in the trinity alps etc. The country you are wanting to see could be miserable in april. I dont want to be a killjoy and hope I am wrong. It just isnt the best time of the year up there by a month or two. You still will have fun though.

[Mike Armstrong]

Woodtroll, if you are 62 or over, you should soon visit a US Forestry headquarters or any National Park or National Monument near you and buy for one-time $10 a "Golden Eagle Senior Pass." Or if you're not there yet and somebody else in your party is, they should get one.

This is a LIFETIME pass for the owner of the vehicle that displays it to any federal park or forest; it'll get you into Yosemite free (the whole car) and you won't have to drive umpty-nine miles to a Forest Service station to buy an "Adventure Day Pass" every time you want to hunt or hike in a National Forest. I got mine five years ago and use it all the time. It got me and my brother into Yellowstone FREE several times on cross-country drives, not mention Devils Tower, the Custer Battlefield, etc. But I mostly use it for hunting on federal land.

I suspect that this program might well be in jeopardy with the nation's finances in such dire straits, so if anybody is over 62 and wanders the federal lands at all, I'd get one NOW.

There's also a "Golden Bear" $15 annual pass for seniors in CA that allows access to all state parks and beaches EXCEPT in high summer. If any of your party is a CA resident over 65, that one could also save you time and $$$.

[CowboyTutt]

I agree with Gak, I prefer to drive DOWN the coast, not up it for the reasons he said. Weather will also be unpredictable in Yosemite and the coast as mentioned. That being said, some of the best coastal rides I have had have been in February! You just don't know. I also agree with stopping in Fortuna after you have driven over to the Lost Coast and perhaps even camped there like I did in my link. The road in takes you right through the heart of redwood forest and along the Eel River and the road out to Fortuna while extremely bumpy (but paved) is gloriously scenic if the weather is good. I did it once in the spring time and the wild flowers and colors were amazing.

The Rim Fire devastated a lot of forest some of which is in Yosemite Nat. Park around Hetch Hetchy. You will drive through some of the damaged area if you enter the park on 120 from the north. If you do Yosemite last, you can take 140 in. Yosemite Valley was not damaged so your good to go there.

Use the NWS website to check weather. You can click on the map to move it to coastal areas for a more accurate forecast. Its the only weather site that allows you to do this. Here's an example. http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.ph ... qkTHTp3uP8

-Tutt