Done - new pics! 1952 Marlin 336 better than new project

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 2:29 am

Edit: See page 2 for finished pictures!
I have a .35 Remington Marlin 336 here that will see a major facelift. I can't call it a restoration, since even though it will look close to new when finished, it will not look factory original.

Marlin 336 awaiting a transformation.

The rifle is a 1952 Marlin 336. Marlin rifles used to look and feel slimmer and better than they do now. In the 1930s, Winchester worked hard to improve the design of the stocks for some of their fancier leverguns, like the Model 71 and 64. Marlin followed suit. While Winchester ended up with some very beautiful stock designs, Marlin stocks became fat and chunky, and the look and feel of Marlin lever actions has never regained the slim elegance of their early rifles. Marlin 336 rifles like this one come from the period in which the stock design was about as ugly as it ever got.

The wood looks like Marlin forgot to finish shaping it. The fat belly of the forend sags grotesquely below the natural lines of the rifle. The buttstock is chunky and shapeless, and has been cut short. I never liked the plastic Marlin buttplates when new, but this one is badly worn and ill fitting. The wood has the normal small dents and gouges, scratches and discolorations, but the stock is walnut and the grain is nice, if slightly plain, a lot better than later rifles that strayed from the traditional walnut.

The 1952 Marlin's fat forend leaves me feeling slightly unsettled, like seeing someone's beer-belly hanging out below his shirt.

The metal looks rough, with a lot of bluing wear and some rust showing. There is little actual damage to the surface of the metal, though, so it will clean up very nicely. The front sight is dinged and the brass bead is missing. The front sight ramp is ugly and angular. There is no rear sight and the rifle wears a Weaver K2.5-C3. I really like this scope and the way it is mounted on this rifle. I tend to dislike scopes on lever action rifles, but I like this setup, and it seems right for this type of rifle. This rifle will have iron sights, though, so the scope will be saved for another use.

The bore is beautiful, with Ballard rifling, and the action seems sound, though the trigger is a bit stiff and the hammer spring heavy.

What do you think we should do to this rifle to give it a better-than-new look?

Weaver K2.2-C3 scope mounted on the 1952 Marlin 336

Let me know what you think and watch for updates as the project progresses. http://762precision.wordpress.com/7-62-precision-blog/

Sixgun · Post by **Sixgun** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 1:18 pm

As you and I have the same likes in leverguns, (the way they used to look) it's a no brainer.

If you had the full mag barrel band version, I would suggest getting rid of all that nonsense by cutting a new dovetail for a half mag, but I see you already have the more desirable version.

Rasp out the forend halfway between your version and the too thin old version. Your a hunter and I'm guessing your guns will be used, so it does help to have a little bit of extra meat. I've seen too many old guns with split forends.

As for the buttstock, not much, maybe a little thinning of the heavy area. Keep the buttplate on while doing this and thin them together.

There's not much to gain from the hours of inletting your going to have to do to put a crescent plate on, but that's your call. A steel shotgun style buttplate would be half the work but would add a bit to "coolness". The factory buttplate, in my opinion is OK.

On to the metal. Your lucky to have a pit free gun. So it comes down to a complete removal of the finish and a 320 grit sand job, all the time keeping the edges sharp and no messing with the lettering.
Then........to me, there is only ONE finish that fits on a levergun......a rust blue.

Rust blue the barrel, receiver, sights, and any hanging hardware.

Fireblue the loading gate, but not the bright fireblue, a bit more subdued like you get by using stump rotter.

Take the hammer and lever and antique them. If you have access to color case hardening, then do it that way. I don't, so I antiqued mine.

I really like the scope you have on there. That scope, the gun, and the time they were made all go together. Have Parsons Scope Service go over the scope and make it like new.

This was a LNIB 336 in 375 with all of that nasty factory finish on the wood and the metal. I stripped it down to nothing, oil finished the wood, rust blued and antiqued the metal parts, and fireblued the loading gate. Pictures don't tell a lot sometimes but the metal finish on this gun is halfway between a polish and satin. Flat finishes may be great for military guns but I like a little bit of shine, not much, just a bit more than satin.------6

Canuck Bob · Post by **Canuck Bob** » Sun Dec 15, 2013 1:59 pm

Wow the above are great ideas.

The Marlins of that era need slim wood particularly in the forearm. My 444S has the barrel band forearm and it is down right elegant rivalling any Winchester in my view. One sacrilege is to ditch the white spacer and apply a Pachmayr Old English pad. Since you are using iron sights a peep sight would be a good choice. Brockman makes an interesting version with a military flair. I like the older receiver style but many folks consider them clunky. The new ghost rings like Skinner's are sleeker and well reviewed.

My Winoku 92 has some faults but the deep polished blue is not one of them. Not too shiny but very even and pretty. Someday my 444 will receive a fresh finish on the wood and a high quality blue job.

If money isn't a big issue then you lucky Yanks have access to gunsmiths like Steve's Guns, Mic McPherson, Brockman, and Wild West to name a few. Take down mods, extended COL, through bolt stocks, trigger tunes and such. My Winoku cries out for a visit to Steve but the Mounties and Homeland Security get in the way. Apparently terrorists are prone to use 32-20 lever actions. If your budget is like mine these are dreams not plans!

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 1:24 am

So the rifle will be going to a woman, so the shorter LOP is no problem. I have a Pachmayr Old English pad sitting here that could work, and I also have a checkered brass plate here that I could use. On the other hand, I have some nice goatskin and could do a leather covered pad. This rifle will be used for hunting, but I have seen leather pads that held up to hard use. Suggestions?

Iron sights are desired, so the scope will go to a different rifle some day, probably one of the same, since a Marlin is the right rifle for it. I don't have a Marlin to put it on right now, since the only Marlins in the house are my wife's two 1893s. The top of the reciever was drilled and tapped forward for the rear scope mount, but it was a waffle-top so does not have the rear top holes factory drilled. It oes have holes on the side of the receiver for a receiver sight.

The rifle was specifically chosen for the half-mag configuration.

The bolt will get jeweling, but I am not sure about the loading gate - what do you guys think?

Sixgun, I really like the looks of that rifle you did - nice job on the lever and hammer.

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 1:28 am

Sixgun wrote: I really like the scope you have on there. That scope, the gun, and the time they were made all go together.

I normally do not like a scope on a levergun, but that scope on that rifle I really like. Did you notice the placement of the scope on the rifle? That particular scope has generous eye relief. Mounted further forward like that and low over the reciever, it is a very nice setup, fast and natural without too much magnification.

BigSky56 · Post by **BigSky56** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 12:23 pm

If setting up for a smaller shooter put a thin recoil pad on it, shave some of that fencepost off the front end trim and slim the buttstock and relieve the extra length of the pistol grip. D&T the back set of scope mounts then cerakote the metal and tung oil the wood put a topmount peep and a firesight front on then load up some good cast or 220 speer for moose and elk. danny

BrentD · Post by **BrentD** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 12:39 pm

There is no doubt that I would slim over 50% of the wood away on that forearm. A near straight line from the nose cap back to the receiver face would be infinitely better -and easier to carry if your smallish shooter has small hands.

I don't like short barrels so that would go away if it was my project. 26" and a full length mag tube are my preferences, but preferences are personal.

The front sight would revert to the old Nickel-silver blade that gives the bead profile and the ramp would have to go to do this.

Rear sight would become a vintage Marbles Flexible Tang Sight.

No jeweling on the bolt - looks garish/1970s chic fashion to me. Something best left to bolt rifles I guess.

Case color the action, lever and maybe the nose cap on the forearm; rust blue barrel, mag tube, hammer and loading gate.

I would probably restock the butt, but at a minimum I would carve down the end of the pistol grip. Somehow relieve that sharp angled point to it. Maybe make it into a more classic "S" curve and even stick in a Winchester-like ebony insert.

Definitely the Pachmyer pad if you stick with that piece of wood.

Thin the stock towards the back so that the fattest part of the stock is about midway between butt and receiver, or maybe just a little aft of that. Should not be severe, but look at a Winchester 1885 original for an example.

Lots of work to trim that rifle up, but it sure could be made a lot nicer.

BrentD · Post by **BrentD** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 1:15 pm

Here is an idea I really like - be brave!

KirkD · Post by **KirkD** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 3:07 pm

I find those fat, chunky forearms a complete turn off. If it were me, I would slim that forearm down to almost the thickness of the original 1893's from whence the 336's eventually came.

Malamute · Post by **Malamute** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 3:44 pm

I skinned down the fore end on my first 95 Marlin and the 39. Made them even with the receiver and fore end cap. Its a huge improvement to me.

BrentD · Post by **BrentD** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 3:56 pm

Malamute wrote:I skinned down the fore end on my first 95 Marlin and the 39. Made them even with the receiver and fore end cap. Its a huge improvement to me.

I did the same thing with my 39a. I got a second forearm to do it with however. If anyone wanted to try this on a 39a and needs wood I still have my original fat forearm. I'm sure we could work out a deal. I thought that I might want to return to "original" condition, but I'll never go back and I leave to those who pick through my estate to grouse about its nonoriginal condition.

http://www.public.iastate.edu/~jessie/P ... 0small.jpg

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 5:14 pm

336 Marlin Time Travel

We are taking the stock back in time. The finished shape will be a nostalgic nod to a time when rifles were true works of art and stocks had graceful lines and glowing finishes. The style is reminiscent of the pistol grip stocks used on Marlin rifles in the late 19th Century. The lines are not exactly the same as those original stocks, as we had to adjust the style to fit the shape of the stock we are working with.

Bulky 1952 Marlin 336 furniture in the midst of a transformation to an 1890s style.

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 5:22 pm

So the stock is well on it's journey back in time.

The metal will be coated.

I know, sorry. The rifle has only a small budget and case hardening and bluing won't fit in it. Also, a coating gives it better protection.

The barrel, lever, magazine tube, and small parts will be a semi-gloss black to be as close to a blued look as possible.
The question is, should the receiver and forend cap should be the same, or a grey for a french grey look? What do you guys think?

BigSky56 · Post by **BigSky56** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 6:27 pm

all metal should be the same but I have seen exposed screws, pins and sights done in a different color. danny

jdad · Post by **jdad** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 7:59 pm

BrentD wrote:Here is an idea I really like - be brave!

The funny thing is that the seller thinks this is factory work.

Griff · Post by **Griff** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 8:28 pm

Looks like a worthy project!

BrentD · Post by **BrentD** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:23 pm

7.62. On a small budget, home rustbluing is the only answer. No coatings!

jdad, I don't give a rat's behind who did it. That stock is extremely well executed. I just might copy it.

Brent

pokey · Post by **pokey** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:24 pm

BrentD wrote:

beautiful, i might own a marlin like this.

7.62 Precision wrote:336 Marlin Time Travel
Bulky 1952 Marlin 336 furniture in the midst of a transformation to an 1890s style.

very nice start.

BrentD · Post by **BrentD** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:37 pm

pokey wrote: beautiful, i might own a marlin like this.

If you do, I sure hope you post a few dozen photos of it.

pokey · Post by **pokey** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:58 pm

BrentD wrote:
pokey wrote: beautiful, i might own a marlin like this.
If you do, I sure hope you post a few dozen photos of it.

i don't , but i would.

BrentD · Post by **BrentD** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 10:01 pm

I was just hoping to get lucky

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 11:20 pm

BrentD wrote:Here is an idea I really like - be brave!

That is beautiful - I'd like to do one like that, only with more professional checkering (not that I mind the well-done amateur stuff either, I would be happy as could be with that particular rifle in my hands!

The stock will definitely get some decoration, but a totally different style. Experimenting with some stuff now.

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Mon Dec 16, 2013 11:26 pm

BrentD wrote:7.62. On a small budget, home rustbluing is the only answer. No coatings!

jdad, I don't give a rat's behind who did it. That stock is extremely well executed. I just might copy it.

Brent

I agree, EXCEPT time is money, and for me, it would be cheaper to send it to someone else to blue than to take the necessary time myself. While I know how to do it, I don't do it, so setup for and doing the job would take more time than I can invest. Specialization is a wonderful thing for efficiency!

BrentD · Post by **BrentD** » Tue Dec 17, 2013 6:55 am

That checkering is not amateur. Everything about that stock is professional and a highly skilled one at that.

It is not my rifle, but there is no way I would ever spray coat it. If time is money, then I would charge for it, or send it to someone that would. Or even suggest that the owner do it herself.

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Tue Dec 17, 2013 3:00 pm

I coated a beautiful Colt Pre-Woodsman once. It made me want to cry.

After much debate with the owner, he finally told me, "This is my pistol and I will never sell it. It will be passed on to my kids. Even if you don't coat it, one way or another, someone is going to coat it, but if you do it, I know it will be done right."

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Tue Dec 17, 2013 3:08 pm

BrentD wrote:That checkering is not amateur. Everything about that stock is professional and a highly skilled one at that.

And beautiful, too.
I like that style of large checkering (for one thing, it is not as easily damaged as sharp fine checkering with fine points.) If I was doing it, I would just try to space the lines more consistently. On that rifle, the slightly inconsistent spacing does not bother me at all. I actually appreciate work like that more than the more collectible factory checkering.

John in MS · Post by **John in MS** » Wed Dec 18, 2013 5:51 pm

"It is not my rifle, but there is no way I would ever spray coat it."

Ditto. There's a guy trying to sell a nice, early S&W Model 19 around here --
he's been at it for a long time, because it's been Duracoated. Nobody will
touch it with a 10 foot pole. There are some guns that just should receive
traditional finishes, in order to prevent projectile vomiting

John

buckeyeshooter · Post by **buckeyeshooter** » Wed Dec 18, 2013 11:35 pm

Wow. The stocks on my 50's gun are my favorite Marlin stocks. I like the thick fore arms the best as they are comfortable in my hands. Here is mine. its original except for a peep sight.
http://i296.photobucket.com/albums/mm16 ... IM0075.jpg

Improvements? How about case finish for the receiver, lever and end cap?

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Thu Dec 19, 2013 4:16 am

John in MS wrote:There are some guns that just should receive
traditional finishes, in order to prevent projectile vomiting

John

Then you're really not going to like this one!

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Thu Dec 19, 2013 4:18 am

buckeyeshooter wrote:Improvements? How about case finish for the receiver, lever and end cap?

I wish, but it is not in the budget or the time frame.

2ndovc · Post by **2ndovc** » Thu Dec 19, 2013 7:14 pm

Must be me but I love those big, fat '50s fore ends! They fit my hands like they were made just for me.

I have that same scope, it's been on several different rifles but always ends up on a levergun!

jb

North Country Gal · Post by **North Country Gal** » Fri Dec 20, 2013 10:57 pm

I know I'm going against the grain, here, but since I have five 336s in 30-30, alone, of various vintages, I like to leave those older versions the way they come from the factory, other than giving the stock some finishing and adding a peep sight and so on. Kind of like that different feel and character you get from various vintages. Of course, easy for me to say since I have other vintages to grab when the mood strikes. Jeweling the bolt, though, would be very un- Marlin like to me. Each to their own, of course. Your gun.

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 2:11 am

Do you ever look at something and think it turned out so great that you are afraid to take the next step?

That’s how I was with this stock. But I pushed forward and there is no going back now . . .
Bears leave deep tracks.

Carving on the Marlin stock with Dremel burrs.

Some of you are NOT going to like this!

BigSky56 · Post by **BigSky56** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 2:24 am

so are you going to go light on the stock and dark on the tracks or the other way around. I like. danny

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 2:34 am

BigSky56 wrote:so are you going to go light on the stock and dark on the tracks or the other way around. I like. danny

Neither.

Do you like nephrite?

BigSky56 · Post by **BigSky56** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 2:48 am

Yep I like jade have some. danny

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 2:56 am

BigSky56 · Post by **BigSky56** » Sat Dec 21, 2013 3:16 am

mixed with epoxy and applied ? I have jade animals and statues. danny

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 2:27 am

Not quite jade-it would be too hard to work, so Inlace is the stuff:

Working on the final shaping, carving, and sanding.

BigSky56 · Post by **BigSky56** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 8:43 am

I like the look have you settled on a wood finish yet. danny

Mescalero · Post by **Mescalero** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 9:02 am

As the final owner is a woman, I think it is well done.

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 10:43 am

BigSky56 wrote:I like the look have you settled on a wood finish yet. danny

I would prefer oil, but it might have to be lacquer due to time frame.

JerryB · Post by **JerryB** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 9:49 pm

7.62 I really like the bear tracks, well done.

Griff · Post by **Griff** » Sun Dec 22, 2013 10:12 pm

Wow...

My stocks are on the way! Wasn't sure where to mail 'em, so I just addressed 'em to Santa, c/o 7.62 Precision, AK. If they don't arrive in time for Christmas, I'll send ya the tracking number.

Tracking... get it?

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Mon Dec 23, 2013 12:42 am

So I'm a bit conflicted on the metal. I can go one of two ways. I have a silver that is not a really metallic silver, but more of a smooth silver that looks like metal - like a smooth but not polished steel. If you looked at it (I have a S&W revolver here in front of me that is coated with it) it looks like metal, not like a coating.

I can do the receiver and forend cap with the silver, and put only a little artwork on them with black. This would be like a traditional French grey on the receiver, only a touch brighter.

Alternately, I can do the forend and receiver in black, with a semi-gloss clearcoat, and some artwork in black without the clearcoat, so it is very subdued, like a spot varnish over a matte laminate in printing.

I am leaning heavily toward the second, as I don't want it too gaudy, and I am afraid the silver will overpower the design of the stock.

What do you guys think?

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Fri Dec 27, 2013 5:45 am

Metal and wood finishing:

Stealing filler screws from a Winchester 94 (I have a filler screw kit that I couldn't find).

The forearm cap screws were both cross threaded. They would hold, but were obviously not flush. I looked for a replacement tenon, but no one listed one in stock for a 336. All listings said they were discontinued by Marlin. I looked under Glenfield Model 30 and found it at Brownells. Ordered some replacement screws, too.

Forearm Tenon installed and centered. I had to center the magazine tube stud, as it was way off center.

Fitting the metal to the wood. The wood was shy of the metal just a bit around the receiver and tangs.

Parts blasted and ready to coat.

Starting the oil finish. I could not bring myself to do a lacquer finish on the stock, since oil is so much better. I am using Formby's Tung oil as it still goes relatively fast. I used mineral spirits instead of turpentine to cut the oil, since I was not totally sure turpentine would not damage the Inlace.

Metal parts coated or cleaned up. The whole action was full of mud and dirt, mixed with some rust.

I always add a new Wolff magazine spring any time I am working on an older levergun. They only cost a few dollars, so I might as well.

JerryB · Post by **JerryB** » Fri Dec 27, 2013 5:11 pm

I like the stock, looks good.

BigSky56 · Post by **BigSky56** » Fri Dec 27, 2013 9:58 pm

The stock looks good with the oil finish is the metal finish duracoat? danny

7.62 Precision · Post by **7.62 Precision** » Fri Dec 27, 2013 10:39 pm

Metal is Duracoated black, templates applied for the tracks, and then a semi-gloss clearcoat. It can look very similar to bluing this way, and the artwork is subdued. It looks very good when applied right. If applied wrong, it looks like a coating - thick and filling in corners and markings.

Post by **Ysabel Kid** » Fri Dec 27, 2013 11:23 pm

BrentD wrote:Here is an idea I really like - be brave!

Dang, that is gorgeous!