OT: SA base pin lube question

[J Miller]

OK, I just bought a Belt Mountain over sized Colt style base pin for IJ. For some reason this receiver needs the .255" size, and so I spent the dollars and got a nice fancy B.M. unit. Unlike the stock base pins the B.M. pins do not rotate in the frame.
I also have three Ruger SAs. Their base pins do not rotate in the frame either.

My question is, what is the best lube to use between a non rotating base pin and the bushing or inside of the cylinder?

I won't be shooting any black powder so that isn't a concern.

Joe

[20cows]

Light gun oil (sewing machine oil)?

[Malamute]

I've discussed this a couple times with Mr Linebaugh. His assertion is that a heavy gun oil on the base pin and, more importantly, between the ends of the cylinger and frame, tends to act as a cushion to slow the battering and loosening of the cylinder in the frame, even in standard caliber guns. The more play that develops, the faster it will wear. The parts get more of a "run" at each other, accelerating the battering process.

[Griff]

I generally use a heavy grease on the basepin of my 3rd gen SAAs, even when shooting BP. In the 2nd gen Colts I use the same between the cylinder and bushing. In my C&Bs I've used a variety of lubes, but have tended to keep it to a minimun in an effort not to have fouling stick to it as much. Maybe I'll go back to heavy grease after readin' Malamutes post.

[J Miller]

Thanks for the answers.

Another question:

Rugers have no bushings, and the base pins don't turn. So any wear is between the base pin and ID of the cylinder.

Belt Mountain's instructions on fitting their over sized bushing to a Colt cylinder is to fit it so the bushing turns freely.

How many of you with Colts and copies have cylinder bushings that turn freely, and do you see this as a problem?

Joe

[kimwcook]

My Colt SAA's don't have the seperate cylinder bushing, the bushing used on mine are the pressed style. I have Belt Mountain's cylinder pins in both and I don't see a problem. I just make sure they're well lubed. Now, ask me after I've shot 10,000 rounds through them and the answer might be different. I've only shot probably 2,000 through them at this point.

Eddie Janis, Peacemaker Specialists actually told me one time that he prefers the non-bushing cylinders. Less things to wear out. Again, ask me after I've shot a considerable amount of ammo through my Colt's and the answer might be different.

P.S. I usually use a synthetic lube as I've found in my experience it doesn't disappear like most traditional lubes. Especially in the heat of summer.

[C. Cash]

I've discussed this a couple times with Mr Linebaugh. His assertion is that a heavy gun oil on the base pin and, more importantly, between the ends of the cylinger and frame, tends to act as a cushion to slow the battering and loosening of the cylinder in the frame, even in standard caliber guns. The more play that develops, the faster it will wear. The parts get more of a "run" at each other, accelerating the battering process.

That's exactly what I do to my Rugers. Everytime I pull the cylinder I do a heavier coat of oil the inside of the pin hole on the cylinder, light coat on the cylinder pin and a light coat on both ends of the cylinder with Hoppes. It has worked well over many years, with little wear apparent.

[Lefty Dude]

On my Colts & SAA, I use a light oil on the bushing and the same on the base pin, Rimoil seems to do the trick.
I use a small amount of high temp. grease on the frame where the cylinder contacts fore & aft. I bought the grease at the gun shows, it's the small container made for the M-14, red in color. A good wheel bearing grease is also usefull.

A little dab will do ya.

[JustaJeepGuy]

I like Gunslick. I also like Super Lube grease, but I don't know if it's available any more.

[adirondakjack]

I agree with Linebaugh's notion. I generally use Tetra gun grease because it's handy. I think a dab in the base pin hole, and on the cylinder ratchet don't do any harm, and may well help cushion eventual battering.

[Paul105]

Joe,

Based on this article from Grant Cunningham's website, I've been using Synthetic Auto Trans Fluid from Wal Mart -- about $2.98 per quart. I don't clean my guns a lot, but lube them frequently. The single actions get a dab of the ATF on the cyl nose, ratchet, cyl bolt cut, pawl cut and along the entire length of the cyl pin. I shoot a lot, use a lot of this stuff, and am happy with the results. Just my opinion.

http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

About 2/3 of the way down the page is a the title

Cut to the chase! What should I use?

"Ironically, the product that scores at or very near the top of just about everyone's testing is also the most available, and the cheapest. It also has good migration, a good boundary lubrication package, is the right weight (thickness) for general firearms use, doesn't oxidize over long periods of storage, and is compatible with a wide range of metals and plastics. In addition, it is recommended by at least one real degreed firearms engineer! Just what is this miracle elixir??

Dexron-type Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). That's right, plain ol' ATF. The kind you get at every gas station, auto parts store, and even most convenience stores. Synthetic or regular, either will work just fine. (ATF does have a slight odor to it. If you find that objectionable, a decent alternative that is still readily available is "NyOil." Check your local auto parts store, in the aisle where they keep the miscellaneous lubricants and additives.)"

Paul

[Jaguarundi]

I agree with Linebaugh's notion. I generally use Tetra gun grease because it's handy. I think a dab in the base pin hole, and on the cylinder ratchet don't do any harm, and may well help cushion eventual battering.

+1 on the Tetra all around.

[Noah Zark]

I agree with Linebaugh's notion. I generally use Tetra gun grease because it's handy. I think a dab in the base pin hole, and on the cylinder ratchet don't do any harm, and may well help cushion eventual battering.

+1 on Tetragrease.

Noah

[Pisgah]

For anywhere in a gun's mechanism that requires oil, I have long been a convert to Singer All Purpose Machine Oil --- that's right, the stuff for sewing machines. Super-slick, enough viscosity to stay put, comes in a bottle with a handy one-drop-at-a-time spout, $1.89 for a 4 oz. bottle -- which is enough to last a long, long time.

[J Miller]

Paul,

Dextron ATF I have by the case full. I even have some Ford Type F. Anybody want it?

Where does one get this Tetra Gun grease? I've heard of it but never seen it.

Singer All Purpose Machine Oil. I used to steel my moms when I was younger. It did work very good. Sewing machines are, or used to be, a thousand whirling bits all moving together.
Now my mom is gone and my wife steels my gun oils for her machines.

Joe

[Rusty]

Not sure about the Singer oil but I still have a bottle of Outers gun oil with the needle applicator. To me the needle is the important part. That way I get it exactly where I want it and it seems to have a smaller drop at well.

For a lot of things I also use G.I. LSA oil when I can find it at guns shows. It's the same stuff used for the inards of the M-60's. It's a white oil that seems to have a bit of Teflon in it as well.

[kimwcook]

Joe, I just pick it up at gun stores and sporting supply houses when I see it. A tube runs me quite a while. I've never ordered it online, but I'm sure it can be found.

[Mike D.]

Hmmm, interesting. My 1st Generation Colts wear their "original" base pins and I haven't noticed any problems with them. Why do you need a non-rotating pase pin and why replace the original Colt pins?

[J Miller]

Hmmm, interesting. My 1st Generation Colts wear their "original" base pins and I haven't noticed any problems with them. Why do you need a non-rotating pase pin and why replace the original Colt pins?

Mike,
I don't think you really need a non rotating base pin. The guy at Belt Mountain says he makes them that way because he's seen a lot of frame wear from rotating base pins. I don't know this from personal experience though.

The gun I'm tinkering with isn't Colt, it's my Iver Johnson's Cattleman (Uberti). The one NKJ rebuilt for me. He put it together with used parts and being the knot head I am I didn't like the used base pin he put in. Nothing wrong with it, it just wasn't purty. This gun also requires a larger than normal base pin. The only source of a base pin that large is Belt Mountain. So that's why I got it.

Now that I've spent that bunch of $$.$$ I wanted info on lubes to keep it in good shape.


Joe

[adirondakjack]

Joe, a fair sized wally world carries tetra gun grease. It's in a squeeze tube, hanging on a card.

Good tip on the ATF.

To qualify my remarks, I use grease on base pins, especially the ends of the cylinder, the ratchet, and the hammer face, and slide rails on a semi (stuff that might get pounded). Everything else gets oil.

[Terry Murbach]

I HAVE LUBED THE BASEPINS IN ALL MY SA SIXGUNS OF EVERY CALIBER WITH MAGNALUBE GREASE FOR THE PAST 35? YEARS OR SO. THIS IS A FUNNY LOOKING GREASE THAT SMELLS LIKE METALLIC BABYSHIQ, IS FULL OF TEFLON, AND HAS THE EXACT SAME HEAT SPECIFICATIONS AS THE LIQUID LUBE BREAK FREE. I AM STILL ON MY FIRST TUBE AS I APPLY IT WITH TOOTHPICKS AS A LITTLE GOES A HECK OF A LONG WAYS.
I THINK I REMEMBER THE FELLOW WHO GAVE ME THAT TUBE WAY BACK WHEN TOLD ME IT WAS SOLD IN MOTORCYLE SHOPS AS CHAIN LUBE OR SOMESUCH.

[J Miller]

I HAVE LUBED THE BASEPINS IN ALL MY SA SIXGUNS OF EVERY CALIBER WITH MAGNALUBE GREASE FOR THE PAST 35? YEARS OR SO. THIS IS A FUNNY LOOKING GREASE THAT SMELLS LIKE METALLIC BABYSHIQ, IS FULL OF TEFLON, AND HAS THE EXACT SAME HEAT SPECIFICATIONS AS THE LIQUID LUBE BREAK FREE. I AM STILL ON MY FIRST TUBE AS I APPLY IT WITH TOOTHPICKS AS A LITTLE GOES A HECK OF A LONG WAYS.
I THINK I REMEMBER THE FELLOW WHO GAVE ME THAT TUBE WAY BACK WHEN TOLD ME IT WAS SOLD IN MOTORCYLE SHOPS AS CHAIN LUBE OR SOMESUCH.

Ewwwww, yuck. Well, at least it works on the gun and that's the important part.

Now I gotta go back and take notes of what greases and oils have been recomended.

Then to find some.

Joe

[Buck Elliott]

A little dab of white Lithium greas on the pin and the ends of the cylinder. Clean it off after shooting, and apply a fresh dab or two... Basically the stuff they use to assemble new or reworked car engines.

If that bothers you a little, maybe a dab of the Lithium to the brain-stem might be in order...?!?

[J Miller]

A little dab of white Lithium greas on the pin and the ends of the cylinder. Clean it off after shooting, and apply a fresh dab or two... Basically the stuff they use to assemble new or reworked car engines.

If that bothers you a little, maybe a dab of the Lithium to the brain-stem might be in order...?!?

Good idea. I have somewhere around 10 or 15 pounds of that White Lithium grease. Got it free for nuthin from my ex employer. He was gonna toss it cos the cans was old and icky looking. With that I could grease the gun for rest of my life X 10.

Why would I want to put some on my brain-stem

A quick trip to the garage and here is my 10X life time of gun grease, one of three cans, this one completely full:

It is so OLD it has no bar codes, and the company address is:
SILOO INCORPORATED, NEWARK 5, NEW JERSEY. No zip code.
On the uses label it actually mentions guns. Wow, how cool is that?

I wonder if it would make a good bullet lube mixed 50/50 with bees wax?

Joe

[marlinman93]

Kroil! Slipperyest stuff I've ever used. It goes on anything where wear or friction might be a problem in my guns.

[Hillbilly]

I use the GI grease that in those little MI-M14 cups too. On base pins in the Uberti... I have a New Frontier and the cylinder pin is pretty simple ... that gets the grease too

Every time I find some I buy it up... my local "source" has it 4 for a Buck... but it seems to be hard to find at gunshows.

Maybe its something else I should hoard?

Jeff

[JustaJeepGuy]

...the company address is:
SILOO INCORPORATED, NEWARK 5, NEW JERSEY. No zip code.

No zip code means it's from 1963 or earlier. That's plenty of grease for an SA or two for a l-o-o-o-o-n-g time!

[Noah Zark]

Joe, a fair sized wally world carries tetra gun grease. It's in a squeeze tube, hanging on a card.

+1. Got my last tube at Wal-Mart.

I also use Tetragrease on the gas seal area of my Uberti Schofield and beretta Laramie to prevent cylinder lockup from soot and hot gas escaping from the cylinder/barrel gap. Without grease, after three cylinders full of those sooty Winchester factory Cowboy loads the cylinder'd start getting tight. With Tetragrease, I can fire two or three boxes of ammo at one session and the cylinders still turn freely.

Noah

[Fairshake]

I have for a while now used Mobil 1 synthetic grease on my SA base pins. I shoot BP and the gun will fire all day without a bind. Before using this grease I tried all types of gun oils to no avail. You can even put them up without cleaning and they spin easy the next day. Not so with other oils. The pins also slip out when time to clean. It provides that cushion from firing also.

[Buck Elliott]

Kroil! Slipperyest stuff I've ever used. It goes on anything where wear or friction might be a problem in my guns.

Kroil penetrates a tad TOO much... You can't let it anywhere near a cartridge. where it could contaminate a primer...