We all know it is flat or round nose bullets (with the exception of the new Hornady flex tips) for use in tube magazines. But what about hollow points with very large openings? Specifically, how about the 30 cal. Speer 130 grain hollow point? The tip of this bullet is almost 0.15 inches in diameter, and, of course, flat. That is as big, or bigger, than most flat nose bullets designed specifically for tube magazines. The rim of the nose would contact near the outside of the primer on the round ahead of it in the magazine, a long way from the anvil. Would that be safe?
I realize this particular bullet has no cantilure, but set back could be managed with suitably compressed powder charges.
I'm sure we all have an opinion about this, but I would really like to hear from anyone who has actual experience with this bullet, or a simular one, in a tube magazine. Thanks.
Bullets For Tube Magazines
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- Levergunner 1.0
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Bullets For Tube Magazines
Unreconstructed
Re: Bullets For Tube Magazines
I never had much luck keeping non-cannelured bullets from scooting back in the case. I could never tell a great deal of difference in load performance, but it still made me nervous.
- AJMD429
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Re: Bullets For Tube Magazines
Never done it, but I'd rather have a hollow point butt up against a primer than a flat point, and a flat point rather than a pointy-point... I think the softness of the lead would be a factor, too.
Someone with some light but stiff plastic tubing (maybe with vent holes to relieve pressure) and a chunk of larger heavy pipe to make a safety shield, goggles, and so on, could easily enough make a device to test various bullets. Prime some cases, and to be 'authentic' even put a 'charge' weight of cream of wheat or something in them, load various bullets, and sequentially drop them down the tube (from a safe and shielded position) from greater heights until you start getting detonations from primers.
That still wouldn't be "actual shooting experience" with those bullets, but I think you could get a basic idea of which shapes and types were likeliest to detonate.
Someone with some light but stiff plastic tubing (maybe with vent holes to relieve pressure) and a chunk of larger heavy pipe to make a safety shield, goggles, and so on, could easily enough make a device to test various bullets. Prime some cases, and to be 'authentic' even put a 'charge' weight of cream of wheat or something in them, load various bullets, and sequentially drop them down the tube (from a safe and shielded position) from greater heights until you start getting detonations from primers.
That still wouldn't be "actual shooting experience" with those bullets, but I think you could get a basic idea of which shapes and types were likeliest to detonate.
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Re: Bullets For Tube Magazines
Maybe you could get a cannelure added to that particular bullet. Just need the canneluring tool.
Sincerely,
Hobie
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Hobie
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- marlinman93
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Re: Bullets For Tube Magazines
You can also cannelure the case neck. Most of the early straight walled BP cases had cannelures or indents built into the case to hold the bullets as old reloading tools had no crimping devicves built in them. I've got an old Ideal tool desgined to indent cases for a stop ring and have used it a lot to do so. It works very well.-Vall
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- Levergunner 1.0
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Re: Bullets For Tube Magazines
AJMD429, your idea for a test is a good one. I will do just that and report the results.
Hobie, do you know who currently makes a canneluring tool?
Hobie, do you know who currently makes a canneluring tool?
Unreconstructed
Re: Bullets For Tube Magazines
Could always use the Lee Factory Crimp die.
JDL
JDL
Re: Bullets For Tube Magazines
I've used a Lee FCD with non-cannelured bullets (Berry's plated) in .44 mag in my Trapper, and never had an issue. I generally use a moderate to light-heavy crimp. However, I am not a reloading expert...just providing another data point.
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- Levergunner 1.0
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Re: Bullets For Tube Magazines
The particular round I have in mind is a 30-30 Ackley Improved and Lee does not list a Factory Crimp die for that. I've use a number of Lee FC dies for straight wall cases, but I know the design is different for bottle neck cases. Would the design of the Lee FC die allow the 30-30 FC die to work for the 30-30 AI?
Unreconstructed