Nice Blue?

bsaride · Post by **bsaride** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 4:19 pm

This was a half hour of Sweets (on jag) followed by Kroil.
I have gone thru this barrel (Marlin 1893 t/d 30 wcf) 3-4
times in the past or more. Used Butch's, Kroil and copper
wool with Kroil.

This is my setup with barrel moved to air the front notch,
Sweets was eating around the front sight. Always clean outside
and the side step seems the best for me.

I got the buggered screw out

of the action.

Anyone going to the SoCal Fam Reunion?
If so, I would like to know if you want me to order patches
(see pg 6 of sticky).

I still have lots to do and will hit it with copper wool and Kroil next.
More than half way thru what I expect is 100 yrs of buildup.

J Miller · Post by **J Miller** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 5:18 pm

bsaride,

It's a lot of work cleaning years and decades of fouling build up out of a rifle barrel. Been there, done that.

You mentioned using copper wool. Since the bullet fouling is copper, and you're using copper wool you might be getting a false blue from the copper wool. I've had that happen from brass and bronze brushes.

What I do now is use stainless brushes for a couple strokes, then let the chemicals do it. That way the only thing the chemicals are reacting to is the crud in the bore.

One question, what is the gun on sale on the add? Some kind of bolt gun with a scope is all I can tell.

Joe

bsaride · Post by **bsaride** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 5:56 pm

J Miller wrote:bsaride,

You mentioned using copper wool. Since the bullet fouling is copper, and you're using copper wool you might be getting a false blue from the copper wool. I've had that happen from brass and bronze brushes.

There is alot of lead fouling, that's why I'm using the copper wool.
Alternating from lead copper fouling techniques.

What I do now is use stainless brushes for a couple strokes, then let the chemicals do it. That way the only thing the chemicals are reacting to is the crud in the bore.

I will have to pick up stainless brushes and try them, not sure how old
steel (1908) works with the stainless which is why I didn't go that route.

One question, what is the gun on sale on the add? Some kind of bolt gun with a scope is all I can tell.

It's an old ad for an air rifle

Joe

John in MS · Post by **John in MS** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:02 pm

"I will have to pick up stainless brushes and try them, not sure how old
steel (1908) works with the stainless which is why I didn't go that route."

Not to start a flame war or anything, but I would definitely NOT, repeat NOT use stainless or steel brushes on any of my firearms. They can ruin a bore in very short order, particularly on stainless guns.

Quality bore brushes in copper/bronze with a brass core (soft to prevent bore damage) can be purchased relatively cheaply by the dozen (last I ordered were under $1.00 each) through benchrest suppliers such as Sinclair International, etc. I "recycle" mine by using the .30's until they no longer fit tightly... they then make great 7mm brushes... after that, if not too badly abused, they make great 6.5mm brushes... you get the picture.

Hope this helps!
John

hartman · Post by **hartman** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 7:08 pm

You might try a product called Wipe-out, it is a foam that you leave soak in the barrel. I've had very good luck with it for removing copper before cast bullets.

Hartman

J Miller · Post by **J Miller** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 8:51 pm

bsride,

Stainless brushes will not hurt steel barrels. The thing is you run them in and all the way through from one direction, and then pull them back all the way out in one direction. You don't stop in the middle and change directions.

I've used them on both rifle and handguns for some years now. I do not use them on a regular basis, but only on stubborn cases of leading or copper fouling.
There is no scratches, or marring, or wear in any of my guns that can be attributed to my occasional use of them.

I've been told, although I can't verify it at this time, that Ruger actually recommends the stainless brushes. So I'm not worrying about it.

Joe

Cast Bullet Hunter · Post by **Cast Bullet Hunter** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:43 am

As long as you keep using that brass jag you are going to turn every patch you use blue with any copper solvent, no matter how clean the barrel is!

Sixgun · Post by **Sixgun** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 10:54 am

I use an Outers Foul Out--Gets out copper and lead. Plus it gets out corrosion which is great when messing with the old rifles with less than perfect rifling. When the "clean" light goes on, I know its clean.

Nice takedown Marlin you have there. There's a lot less Marlin takedowns than Winchesters. How does she shoot?---------------Sixgun

bsaride · Post by **bsaride** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 11:09 am

Sixgun wrote:Nice takedown Marlin you have there. There's a lot less Marlin takedowns than Winchesters. How does she shoot?---------------Sixgun

Don't know yet, got the last buggered screw out yesterday on the
disassembly and cleaning, I have several locking lugs to try when
I put it back together and check headspace. haven't taken the front
end apart yet either. unsure how critical a tight takedown latch needs
to be, but still need to address that as well. slowly getting it right and
worst case will shoot it at the socal reunion.

1886 · Post by **1886** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 7:52 pm

Sixgun nailed it. Outers Foul Out. 1886.

marlinman93 · Post by **marlinman93** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 8:01 pm

I've never used stainless steel brushes, but I sure wouldn't try them out the first time on a vintage Marlin takedown, ith the older metallurgy! Give it a try on something with newer steel.