I have a refinshing question in regaurds to Marlin Stocks

[Rifleman336]

Hi guys,

It's been awhile. I have a question I'm looking at refinishing my dinged and scratched wood on a Marlin 336 I bought used about 8 years ago. The question is in regards to the "Marguard" epoxy(?) based finish.

Is their anything special in the way of stripping chemicals that'll take it off so I don't have to sand it off and risk messing up the fit of the stock??

I'm also trying to look for a more brown satin finish instead of the orange shiny plastic like finish that currently resides on it. Any recommendations??


Thanks,

Rifleman 336

[kimwcook]

I've not worked with Marlin's finishes, but I have worked with Brownings and I used Jasco Paint and Epoxy Remover. It worked as advertised and very easy. Just make sure you use as directed and wear rubber gloves. That stuff is mean on skin.

[Pete44ru]

Every Marlin I've refinished over the last 10 years (15 or so), haven't seen sandpaper except for a few that had an area repaired prior to the refinish.

The EZest I've found is a green/red can (liquid) of Formby's Furniture Refinisher from Home Cheapo or a True Value hardware store or a Home & Auto store like Benny's/Western Auto/etc.
Just follow the can directions, using fresh pads of OOOO steel wool to wipe of the old finish - and be sure to let the totally-stripped wood dry overnite B 4 proceding.

I ALWAYS stain the wood with MinWax Stain/Sealer, usually mixing Black Walnut (75%) with some Red Mahogany (25%) in a jar for each job.

After drying the stain overnite, I then use TruOil for an oil finish, applying & rubbing in (w/1 fingertip) a small dollop in each area of the stock until the stock has 1 coat, letting dry 8hrs minimumm then rubbing the excess oil off with OOOO steel wool before wiping with a magnet & starting the next coat of TruOil.
I apply as many coats as each particular stock needs, as all wood is different.

I like Marlin stocks sans the white line spacers, but they are easily cleaned whiter via a light rubbing with the steel wool and/or laq thinner.


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[Dave]

I have had good luck removing the MarShield finish with Minwax Furniture Refinisher which is the same as the Formby's Pete mentioned. You may be surprised what you find under that factory finish.

I use 000 steel wool with the refinisher until all the MarShield is gone then come back with Tru Oil until it is a shiny as I want it. Maybe about three coats steel wooling it in between until the stock quits soaking up the oil. Never have sanded one.

Here is the link to an old post with pics of a gun I did.

http://www.levergunscommunity.com/viewt ... il#p277554

[Chuck 100 yd]

I have used a cabinet scraper to remove the hard flakey varnish from many stocks without damage to the wood. Good light and care is all you need to protect the underlying wood.
Keep all sharp edges sharp and if need be chase any checkering with a checkering file.
Have fun.

[marlinman93]

Either chemical stripper mentioned has worked great for me, but be sure to not put new finish over the stripped wood until you clean it well! I take mine to the laundry sink and wash them with plain old dishwashing soap and water. Rinse and let them sit for several days in a warm area to dry. Then proceed with finishing.
My favorite finish is MinnWax Wipe-On Poly. It goes on like oil finish by simply wiping it on with a rag and wiping the excess off. I scuff between coats by wet sanding with more WOP on 600 grit paper. After about 3 coats I stop wet sanding and just wipe it on until it gets to the sheen I like. Fresh wood takes 8-12 coats for what I like, but refinished is usually 4-5. I let it dry overnight between coats.