Cracks, or finish checking?

[pneuby]

Got a clean 1894c, and I noted a series of what could be cracks right where the tang stops, both on the top and bottom of the wrist. While the finish seems thin, I was wondering if these could be stress cracks in the lacquer, or are they legit cracks starting. I don't see recoil from the measly .357 being able to to this, perhaps a notch cut just too short for the tang? Kinda like this, LOL...

/ l (
/ l l (

[Griff]

Pictures would be a help. But, to be sure, take the buttstock off and use some fine sandpaper (not less than say 300 grit) on the area. If they sand right out, they're stress cracks in the finish, if they don't... well, now you have the stock off to use some epoxy in there to keep them from separating further.

[AJMD429]

What Griff said.

If the stock is reasonably easy to get off and on, it isn't likely over-tight now, at least. You're right about the recoil of the .357 in my opinion at least - I can't imagine it would create new cracks, or even widen old ones unless the stock were still being 'wedged' by a too-tight fit.

I read somewhere that Marlin used to heat the tang up and 'burn' it into the wood for the final fit.

[Griff]

I read somewhere that Marlin used to heat the tang up and 'burn' it into the wood for the final fit.

Has anyone tried this? I have about a 1/16" of gap at the front of the stock, but both bottom and lower tangs are tight against their respective slots. The little "bevel" on the upper is also flush... this is the part that I'm leery of rasping away...

[Blaine]

IMO, Marlins crack there all the time.....even had a couple split....a little superglue while careful spreading the crack with the tip of a toothpick will fix it right up.

[Leverdude]

I read somewhere that Marlin used to heat the tang up and 'burn' it into the wood for the final fit.

Has anyone tried this? I have about a 1/16" of gap at the front of the stock, but both bottom and lower tangs are tight against their respective slots. The little "bevel" on the upper is also flush... this is the part that I'm leery of rasping away...

I dont think burning it in is real practical for us, not sure how Marlin got the tangs hot enough even enough. I usually try to leave a slight gap at the rear of the tangs so that the reciever flare where it meets the stock takes the recoil and most other stresses applied to the buttstock. Alot of factory guns are like yours is right now & I think thats why so many split or crack at the end of the tangs, theyre tapered & any setback after theyre fit has to act like a wedge. I use a set of cutters & scrapers I got from Brownells mostly, theres a short knife cutter thing that makes taking a nice shaveing off a radius pretty easy & controlable in the kit, but a exacto knife can do it too, the one in the kit wont flex though. Once the shoulder area is flush I use a little acraglass to fill the gap at the tang & to bed the shoulder to the reciever. Nice snug perfect fit.

[pneuby]

Thx all, then again, I may just slap some plastic on it.