Help Win 1886 rebound removaand Browning trigger hammer swap

[jjames]

I was motivated by another post to make these modifications to my Win 1886. Got the parts from Midwest yesterday and installed them last night. Everything went fairly smoothly until I tried the finger lever. The bolt binds up trying to travel over the Browning hammer. I note there is zero free play of the hammer to the upper tang when the bolt is bound. I swapped the original hammer back in and the bolt glides easily over the hammer with .03-.04 freeplay still in hammer to the tang. So I know it is the Browning trigger that is causing my problem. Has anyone else had this issue? How is MGW about taking returns. I am trying to decide if I should have my machinist wack off some the hammer to allow the bolt to pass over the hammer or to try to return this one hoping that it was not machined to specification. Any thoughts and advice woukd be great appreciated gents.

Thanks

[M. M. Wright]

If you were handy enough to make the swap then you should be able to grind enough off the hammer nose, (where the bolt contacts it), to let the bolt ride over it. Should be a simple adjustment. Should be too hard to file so grinding will be required. Dremel would probably work. Then the spot needs to be polished with emery cloth.

[Mike D.]

What method did you use to install the Browning trigger? Did you remove all of the unneeded original Winchester springs and pins? You need to retain the large flat spring and pin to keep tension on the one piece Browning trigger/sear. I also rounded off and polished the strut that fits into the recess on the back of the hammer.

[jjames]

Got rid of all the two piece trigger Hardware. Left the flat trigger spring in place. The problem is the distance between the face of the hammer that contacts the bolt and where the trigger bottoms out on the upper tang is too large but not by much. You can see the the diffference between the two triggers when you compare them.

MGW has contacted me. We will see what they say. I will probably end up machining the new hammer a bit.

Thanks for the feedback

[Mike D.]

That's strange. I have not had an issue with Browning hammers not working perfectly. Heck, even Model 71 hammers will do the job.

[jjames]

I spoke for 10 minutes or so to Jon at MGW. He is very helpful and interested in my problem. I got my new digital calipers today and took measurements from the face of the hammer where the bolt rides to the back of the hammer pad that hits the upper tang when fully cocked. The Winchester hammer measured .4885 inch while the Browning hammer measured .5235 inch. that 35 thousanths seems to be the difference. Jon said he would investigate my measurements tomorrow and see what he comes hup with.

[Mike D.]

When I tackle another Winchester EL it will have a original 1886 lower tang, mainspring, hammer and trigger. Much more positive hammer strike.

[kimwcook]

What method did you use to install the Browning trigger? Did you remove all of the unneeded original Winchester springs and pins? You need to retain the large flat spring and pin to keep tension on the one piece Browning trigger/sear. I also rounded off and polished the strut that fits into the recess on the back of the hammer.

I just replaced my hammer and trigger on my Winoku just like Mike described and I didn't have a single issue. One caveat, I haven't fired it yet, but it functions fine. Sorry to hear about the problem.

[jjames]

Thanks. I measured the same area of the hammer on my B-71 and it seems to fall in between the two measurements. I guess the weather was bad at MGW and Jon may not have made it in today. He is also advising to go with all Browning parts getting rid of the strut, main spring etc. Says it just takes one extra drilled hole in the lower tang channel. That unfortunately will not resolve the current issue.

[kimwcook]

It takes one extra hole for a part as far as I know they were out of stock on. I'd prefer to set it up the original way too, but I didn't know it was a currently available option. Keep us informed.