I traded for a Marlin 336 and have questions.

[oneyeopn]

Hi ya'll, last night I traded a 10-22 for a Marlin 336 in 30-30. I always wanted one and thought they looked cool. Is the microgroove barrel as accurate as it is on a 22? I see on some other forums they talk about a 336RC or a C or a W, what are they talking about and how do you tell what you have? He had a scope on it and I didnt like it but is it better with the scope or not. My Rossi 92 45lc with the new sights from Steve's Gunz and the 225gr ftx bullet over 23 grains of H110 is absolutely knocking the bull out of the targets now. The load is running 1654fps +/-12fps. What weight of bullet is good for the 336. Are the FTX's in 30-30 a good bullet? The gun is going to be refinished and the smaller parts that need it reblued and it has joined my group of "keeper" rifles. Thanks for the information, so far everything I have received from this forum has been spot on and thanks for that also.

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[Marlin32]

Micro groove barrels are just fine. I have read alot stuff on that topic for years.
I would shy away from the FTX bullet, there are better bullets out there, for the 30/30 I would use the Federal Bullets, they will out perform the others. There used to be, not sure if it is still loaded or not, a partition bullet for the 30/30. If situation warranted its use, it is good bullet.

I have no problem expousing the shortcomings of the FTX bullet, but performance on game aside, I thought they shot great out of my Marlin 338ME XLR, until I tried the Remington 250 Core lokt bullets. Big difference in precision.

[ollogger]

Sounds like you did a great job on a trade
I shoot lead or rarley 170 speer in a Winchester or two, its a good bullet

ollogger

[AJMD429]

10/22's are nice, but everyone ought to have a .30-30 or some other variety of Marlin 336, too.

[sullkat]

Here is a C&P from MO that i found interesting, I thought the "W" was for Walmart.

Re: 336 suffix definitions???
CS .... Carbine Safety
C........ Carbine. 1968 and up
RC......Regular Carbine same as C prior to 1968
T .......Texan. Carbine with straight stock, 20 inch barrel
TS.......Texan Safety with 18.5 inch barrel.
SC.......Sporting Carbine, 20 inch barrel, 2/3 mag tube, pistol grip.
CB.......Cowboy, 24 inch octagon barrel and straight stock.
A.........Prior to 1980 24 inch round barrel PG stock
A........, Most recent, 20 inch PG carbine with birch wood, end cap forend.
W.......,20 inch PG carbine, birch wood, and two barrel bands
Y......... Spikehorn youth model short PG walnut stock 16.5 inch barrel.
LTS...... Texan Safety, 16.25 inch barrel.
Marauder.. same as 336 T except has 16.25" barrel and SG. Roll marked RC.
ER......... Extra Range PG stock in 356 Winchester.
375....... PG stock 20 inch barrel in 375 Win.
XLR.......Stainless steel 24 inch barrel PG laminated stock
CC....... 20 inch carbine with camo pattern birch PG stock
SS........20 inch PG stock Stainless steel.
ZG....... Zane Grey Century PG stock, 22 inch octagon barrel.
336 Octagon.. 22 inch octagon barrel SG stock.
336BL.... big loop lever and laminated PG stock

[Pete44ru]

You look to have a 336RC (Regular Carbine) - if the bbl's 20" long.

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[earlmck]

You made a great trade there, oneyeopen. You can't beat a good old Marlin 30/30, but I'd be tempted to put a Williams receiver sight on her before you do much more shooting (and maybe replace the front sight with a small ivory bead, just for grins )

My main shooter is a Marlin 336A (the old one that is a 24" round bbl) 30/30 and mostly I shoot 170 grain flat-nose gas-checked cast bullets with 18 grains of IMR 4759 (or 20 grains of Accurate 5744) for just over 1800 fps.

For jacketed loads I use the 170 grain Hornady or Remington with 36 grains of Hodgdon's LVR powder for about 2350 fps. And if you do decide to try the LVR powder I will tell you that I didn't get good accuracy until I worked up to a slightly compressed load and used the Lee Factory Crimp die to give it a firm crimp (one of the few loads I have tried where the Lee F.C. die made a major positive difference).

I haven't tried the FTX bullet so can't tell you about that. I'm sure the Hornady factory stuff uses the LVR powder to get very nice velocities with their bullet but I just don't have experience with it. I load that 170 grainer in case I might want to plug a lady elk with it one of these days, and I know it does a fine job on big bucks.

[Chuck 100 yd]

An 1895 SS could be Special Sporting ( 336 variant in .45-70)
Blued , not stainless ,2/3 magazine. I have one and it`s a great shooter.

[Streetstar]

I guess i am a reluctant MArlin fan ---- that doesnt make much sense --- but i rarely sit back in an overstuffed chair cradling my Guide Gun and admiring its beauty --- on the flip side, the GG has been the first gun i grab for deer season now for the past few years


I have not put an optic on any of my dozen or so winchesters , ever ---- but the Marlins i have ? --- no problems

The MArlins bridge the gap a bit between modern and antique in my eyes ---- its still a levergun, but a modestly sized scope seems to go alright on that flat top receiver -- something i havent dont to a Winchester yet

I am a Winchester maniac, but am now shopping for a short barrel Marlin 30/30 myself so i can have something to put an Aimpoint on besides an AR15

[oneyeopn]

You made a great trade there, oneyeopen. You can't beat a good old Marlin 30/30, but I'd be tempted to put a Williams receiver sight on her before you do much more shooting (and maybe replace the front sight with a small ivory bead, just for grins )

My main shooter is a Marlin 336A (the old one that is a 24" round bbl) 30/30 and mostly I shoot 170 grain flat-nose gas-checked cast bullets with 18 grains of IMR 4759 (or 20 grains of Accurate 5744) for just over 1800 fps.

For jacketed loads I use the 170 grain Hornady or Remington with 36 grains of Hodgdon's LVR powder for about 2350 fps. And if you do decide to try the LVR powder I will tell you that I didn't get good accuracy until I worked up to a slightly compressed load and used the Lee Factory Crimp die to give it a firm crimp (one of the few loads I have tried where the Lee F.C. die made a major positive difference).

I haven't tried the FTX bullet so can't tell you about that. I'm sure the Hornady factory stuff uses the LVR powder to get very nice velocities with their bullet but I just don't have experience with it. I load that 170 grainer in case I might want to plug a lady elk with it one of these days, and I know it does a fine job on big bucks.

thank you, you were spot on on the 23 grains of H110 for my Rossi 45lc 1654fps +/- 12fps. With the new sights on it from Steve's Gunz it tears the bulls out of targets now, As soon as Handicapped deer season opens I will take a deer with it. I was looking at the williams receiver sights, I believe my receiver is already drilled and tapped for them there are two little holes with screws in them right by where the ejector nubbin sticks out of the side of the 336 action on the left side. I saw there were two of the sights, which one of the two would you choose the FP or the 5D?

[earlmck]

I believe my receiver is already drilled and tapped for them there are two little holes with screws in them right by where the ejector nubbin sticks out of the side of the 336 action on the left side. I saw there were two of the sights, which one of the two would you choose the FP or the 5D?

Yep-that's them. 5 minute job to screw on your new receiver sight.

If you are a fellow who develops one or two loads and sticks with them, the FP does the job. If you like to play with loads, the 5D adjusts easier (that's why it's more money). That said, I have FP's even though I like to mess with different loads from time to time. I guess the dirt-simple of the FP appeals to me over the convenience of the click-adjustments on the 5D.

[oneyeopn]

I believe my receiver is already drilled and tapped for them there are two little holes with screws in them right by where the ejector nubbin sticks out of the side of the 336 action on the left side. I saw there were two of the sights, which one of the two would you choose the FP or the 5D?

Yep-that's them. 5 minute job to screw on your new receiver sight.

If you are a fellow who develops one or two loads and sticks with them, the FP does the job. If you like to play with loads, the 5D adjusts easier (that's why it's more money). That said, I have FP's even though I like to mess with different loads from time to time. I guess the dirt-simple of the FP appeals to me over the convenience of the click-adjustments on the 5D.

Ok I read somewhere that with some of the receiver sights you have to put a taller front sight on. Would this be true with the 5D, I generally find a load that both the rifle and I can live with that is accurate and has stopping power without abusing my already surgically repaired shoulders. Recoil pads have become a good friend of mine as I have gotten older. So would I need to put a taller front sight on? I was thinking about staying in the 150 to 160 gr range as far as bullets. I dont have to use the FTX's, I like them, I like the theory behind them, they get such mixed reviews that it is hard to tell. I know that they work well out of my Rossi, but now that it is sighted in so do some of the other bullets that I bought. I think I am mostly thinking out loud. I havent dealt with 30-30's since I started reloading and I do know the options are endless....

[Pete44ru]

Whether an FP or 5D, if it's a side-mount peep, Marlins don't usually require a taller front sight to achieve zero, like they do when using a top-mounted receiver peep sight (that uses the scope mount holes).

As for which to choose - the choice is personal, part economics, part plans for actual use.

The FP costs about 2X the cost of the 5D - but for the extra $$$$ you get micrometer click W&E adjusters, ILO sliding adjustments held by grub screws.

The use depends upon whether or not you intend to settle on one load, indicating a "set-'n-forget" sight like the 5D - or intend to need to be continually changing elevation adjustments, as when shooting silly-wets, where the FP is a better choice.

YMMV.

.

[earlmck]

The FP costs about 2X the cost of the 5D - but for the extra $$$$ you get micrometer click W&E adjusters, ILO sliding adjustments held by grub screws.

Thanks, Pete. I had the Williams numbers reversed in my post -- just normal senility.

Also I should mention that us Marlin shooters have been known to enjoy loading those 110 grain spitzers (I use Speers in my load with 32 grains of RL-7 but several powders and bullets work fine here) at about 2700 fps. And with a nice scope (I like the 2X7 Burris or Leupold) you can do serious damage to prairie dogs or similar varmints. Pay no nevermind to the purists among this crowd who scoff at this "carry handle". The sight you choose depends on the use you intend for the rifle, and the little Marlin is highly versatile!

And I'm glad to hear about your 45 Colt success -- that sounds much more like what that should do in a rifle.

[El Chivo]

speaking about microgroove, mine is accurate with full power loads and jacketed bullets, but not so much with low power loads and lead bullets. This is true of my 35 Rem also. My other rifles which are not microgroove seem to be able to go either way.

[oneyeopn]

What are grub screws? I am seriously considering going with a Williams Receiver Sight. I have a Lyman on one of my Mauser's and absolutely love it. I generally tend to make one or two loads and stay with them. I have my S&W M&P15 set up with a 6-24x50 Scope for prairie dog hunting and it is deadly accurate. Plenty of terminal hits at over 200 yards. So I dont expect to be loading the 336 for PDogs. I expect to load it for Deer, Coyotes and Feral Hogs. Staying in the 150 to 160 range. We have lots of game in SW Kansas but you dont get close shots very often. I have already started working on the rifle, going to try to make it look brand new except I am going to do a hand rubbed tung oil finish on the American Walnut instead of whatever kinda Lacquer/Poly Urethane finish that is a little beat up but on it.


I have already built these two rifles for longer distance hunting, The Bolt action is a WWII Mauser 98 converted to 308, the action has been trued, the bolt has been redone, Timney Trigger, Timney Speedlock Kit, Bell and Carlson Stock, Caldwell Bipod and Paint by Oneyeopn.

[Pete44ru]

A "grub" screw is a screw that holds a sliding part in position when tightened.

This is the 5D, with sliding W/E adjustments, held by grubscrews



This is the FP, with screwdriver-turned micrometer-click adjusters




.

[Boreman]

Re: Suffex defs.
I have a 1895 in 45-70 with a suffex of "S".It is not stainless,it is blued.I did not see an "S" on the list. Any one know what the def is for the "S" ?
Is this rifle unique in some way,you don't find many on Gunbroker.In fact there is only one on there now................

BTW,you will really enjoy that 336 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Chuck 100 yd]

Don`t you mean Gib screw? A locking or can be an adjusting for excess clearance screw as in the gib screws in a lathe or milling machine.

[Canuck Bob]

I understand a grub screw tightens against a part directly to lock it. A screw that locks a handle on a shaft is an excellent example. I call the screw on my Williams a grub screw.

A gib screw tightens against a separate gib, like in a lathe tool carrier, to set tension and remove play but is not used as a lock once set and secured. Then a separate locking handle and screw is sometimes available but not always.

[Canuck Bob]

Oneyeopn, I have a Marlin 444 on the same action. I own both Winchesters and a Marlin. For a working gun today I give the Marlin a nod. However this is a Ford, Chevy, Dodge favorite thing. Beside a guy should have a few lever actions.

My 444 has a Williams FP with the adjustable feature. I loaded up a small pile of good moose ammo years ago and never moved the sight again! I take it out and it still hits were I point. Personally I like my micro groove barrel because it works so darn well. Folks advise cast bullets need to fit the throat and a little larger than the bore is ideal. Ranch Dog Molds is a great site with chamber diagrams and info tailored for the Marlin 30-30 and cast loads. The 30-30 is cast friendly with its long case neck and mid range power.

I recommend our own 86er, Joe's, 4 part series on premium bullets for the 30-30 as a must read. Here is part 1.

http://www.levergunscommunity.com/viewt ... 9563&hilit

[Rifleman]

A "grub" screw is a screw that holds a sliding part in position when tightened.

This is the 5D, with sliding W/E adjustments, held by grubscrews



This is the FP, with screwdriver-turned micrometer-click adjusters




.

I would suggest getting the FP; I have both but the FP sits on my 30-30, the 5D sits in my sights box.

[Chuck 100 yd]

Canuck Bob I think we are on the same track here. That silver bushing the elevation lock screw goes through on Williams sights is called a gib by Williams when you order one.

[oneyeopn]

Oneyeopn, I have a Marlin 444 on the same action. I own both Winchesters and a Marlin. For a working gun today I give the Marlin a nod. However this is a Ford, Chevy, Dodge favorite thing. Beside a guy should have a few lever actions.

My 444 has a Williams FP with the adjustable feature. I loaded up a small pile of good moose ammo years ago and never moved the sight again! I take it out and it still hits were I point. Personally I like my micro groove barrel because it works so darn well. Folks advise cast bullets need to fit the throat and a little larger than the bore is ideal. Ranch Dog Molds is a great site with chamber diagrams and info tailored for the Marlin 30-30 and cast loads. The 30-30 is cast friendly with its long case neck and mid range power.

I recommend our own 86er, Joe's, 4 part series on premium bullets for the 30-30 as a must read. Here is part 1.

http://www.levergunscommunity.com/viewt ... 9563&hilit

Ok this was a great read...I will catch the other parts. Thank You, right now for reloading I have 150gr Speer Flat Soft Points and 160 gr Hornady LeveRevolution FTX, I have 4064, 4895 and CFE223 for powder. I thought that for a 30-30 you stay around 150 to 160 gr bullets for best results but maybe not now. So where do I find the other parts?

[Canuck Bob]

Canuck Bob I think we are on the same track here. That silver bushing the elevation lock screw goes through on Williams sights is called a gib by Williams when you order one.

I never thought of that, Chuck. I always thought of a gib in a limited sense on machine tools. Sure makes sense when you think about it. Thanks

[Canuck Bob]

So where do I find the other parts?[/quote]

Just enter "Premium Bullet" in the advanced search function narrowed down to Topics, all 4 will pop up.

I am lucky to stomp around country that is mixed game from whitetail to moose so big is always a possibility. I like bullets that are sturdy. For deer there seems to be lots of options and the 150 grain range is popular. There is no better forum than this one on the net for practical 30-30 advice.

I've only owned my 32 Special, same case as a 30-30 with a slightly larger bullet .321 versus .308, for a short time. I did own a Savage 30-30 bolt action many years ago rebadged as a Cooey for Canada. I was a kid and it was a deer slayer that helped finance the 444. I went to the Woolco store and bought the cheapest ammo available so I remember nothing of the loads used.

You will be real happy with that rifle. It is a dandy. Clean the magazine tube and lightly lube it yearly. The only time my rifle acted up was due to crud in the tube. A traditional lever, open hammer and tube magazine, with iron sights hand carries better than any other gun in my opinion.