Help to Identify S&W

[jkbrea]

I didn't want to hijack the Mod 10 thread but it got me thinking. I may have one. I got this from my father in law when he passed a couple years back. I haven't fired it yet. I think it's a Model 10 but not sure. The serial numbers on the frame and barrel match but there is a different 5 numbers on the yoke. There is also the letter "Y" above that and a small "2" above and to the left of that. Serial # is S 987xxx. It's marked 38S&W Special CTG. Patent info on top of the barrel is Feb 6, 06 Sept 14, 09 Dec29, 14. I searched for a list of manufacture dates like Colt has but couldn't find any. Can anyone help me out. Thanks. Jim

[MrMurphy]

Open the cylinder, look in the frame window. There should be a model number there ("10-6", etc) if it's from the 1950s onward.

If it's from before that, might not be marked. Looks like a fairly classic Military & Police (what became the Model 10) with a 4" or 5" barrel and later grips, not the super skinny early ones.

The .38 Special was introduced with the M&P in 1899 or so, so that's your starting point.

[jkbrea]

No model number so I'm guessing pre 50's. Did find an article that said S&W didn't put Model numbers on their revolvers until late 50's. I'll keep looking. Thank you.

[milton]

You have a .38 Military & Police (Postwar) "Pre model 10).With the S prefix serial no. your revolver was probably produced in 1945 or 1946.Excellent .38 Special Smith!
This information is from Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson,3rd Edition,Supica and Nahas,I might add.

[Rusty]

Looks like a nice old piece. Is that a 5" barrel? It should be a good shooter with mild .38's. No plus P loads please.

[Booger Bill]

I can only echo and/or confirm what others said. It`s a old M&P 5" and in darn nice shape! I just showed mine on another thread. Yours is even older than mine. Besides the S serial # you can tell by the front sight shape difference.

[M. M. Wright]

Yeah! 5" M&P in marvelous shape. I love it. Shoot the snot out of it.

[jkbrea]

Thanks for the responses. My wife wanted a gun for home defense when I'm not around. Her dad's gun will be perfect. She's not a gun person but wants to learn and I'd rather she have a revolver. Less chance of a malfunction. Her dad also left a Colt Woodsman in excellent shape. The box was a little beat up but it still had the owners manual and test target. From the serial number it is from 1950 I think. 733xx S. Funny thing, I've had it for a few years and never looked through the box until recently. Here's a pic.

[2ndovc]

That Woodsman is sweet!!

I have my Great Uncle's Match Target that he won a pile of trophies with, deadly accurate.

Love the S&W too. Hard to beat a good old Smith .38 Special! My Dad carries a
nickel plated version just like that in his Old Guy Bag.


jb

[MrMurphy]

Revolvers don't malfunction much, but when they do, it can kill you.......

Shot a match about 20 years ago with a Model 10 HB and during one portion of a stage, I drew and squeezed, nothing happened. Cylinder would not rotate and would not open. Gun turned into a paperweight.

Don't remember exactly what the final verdict was, but one of the experienced guys discovered one frame screw had backed out about half a turn and somehow locked up the entire gun.

[hondo1892]

Very nice looking Smith there.

[Malamute]

^ ^ Sounds like the extractor rod unscrewed. They should be carefully torqued. Some like to muse blue loctite, but I havent found it neccessary if they are torqued. I use a pad of leather to clamp the rod in vise jaws, and with some shells in the chambers, gently unscrew, then retorque to be sure you are going the right way, and know where you are at and not overtorque it. The threads are very fine.

The things that cause trouble in revolvers often seen to be simple preventive maintenance related.

Spinning the cylinder back and forth by the rod (stopping and starting it each way by the rod) can reveal if its loose, and is part of my regular habit when dinking with them.

Not letting crud build up under the extractor star goes a long ways to keeping them running. Many molly-coddle the shells when extracting them. To keep the star clean, turn the muzzle straight up and give the rod a sharp slap to kick the shells out in the dirt where they belong until done shooting. Going slow and trying to keep the shells from falling on the ground is what gets unburnt powder and grunge under the extractor star. Using a toothbrush under the star regularly keeps them happy.

Really nice old guns!

[jeepnik]

I have a fair number of older Smth's. Not near as many as I'd like, but I'll get more.

I haven't run into a problem yet with the ejector rod on them. I suspect that they were made right to begin with and the years have just solidified things in place.

That said, before your wife uses it for self defense, have a good smith look it over. Also, based on it's condition in the photos you might just want to hang on to it as is and get a newer, preferably stainless .38 spl revolver. The finish on the stainless is much more forgiving of the salts in human sweat.

[MrMurphy]

No, I do remember him checking that later. It was one of the sideplate screws that came loose.

[Old Ironsights]

Lovely old Smith. Great "house gun". Put some "standard pressure" 158gr LSWCHPs (Buffalo Bore "short barrel/low flash" is a good pick) and call it a day - unless you have snakes nearby then keep a few CCIs in a speed strip handy...