"Building" an AR

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Bill in Oregon
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"Building" an AR

Post by Bill in Oregon »

Gang, I have had a stripped AR lower set aside for a couple of years. I'd like to finish the lower with a decent (need mot be match-grade) trigger and a good, reliable 20-inch upper. Anyone have advice on which ones to look for or avoid? I'd like reliable first, accurate second.
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Griff
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Re: "Building" an AR

Post by Griff »

I put CMC triggers in my ARs. Good quality, reliable and match worthy... but reliable 1st and foremost. As for a barrel, I'd go with the Colt H-Bar or equivalent.
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Bill in Oregon
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Re: "Building" an AR

Post by Bill in Oregon »

Thanks Griff. I've heard good things about the CMC trigger.
Pisgah
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Re: "Building" an AR

Post by Pisgah »

I like the Rock River 2-stage Match trigger. Light and crisp enough for target work, but heavy enough for comfortable field use, and dead reliable and consistent. Also, much cheaper than most comparable drop-in units. $80 from numerous sources.
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Re: "Building" an AR

Post by Griff »

Another item I've put in all my ARs (2 so far), is the JP Captured Buffer Spring. I got mine from DSG on sale for $99.95, waiting for a sale can be a good thing. You can still hear it, but it's SO much quieter, you have to actually listen for it.
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horsesoldier03
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Re: "Building" an AR

Post by horsesoldier03 »

I have built two ARs so far using this lower build kit. The trigger is MILSPEC which means you shouldn't have to worry about a discharge if it is dropped. One of them came out excellent with about 6 lbs pull and no creep or over travel. The other is about 6 lbs but has slight creep and no over travel.

http://palmettostatearmory.com/catalog/ ... /id/10301/

You can't beat their complete upper receivers.
http://palmettostatearmory.com/ar-15-05 ... blies.html
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AJMD429
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Re: "Building" an AR

Post by AJMD429 »

I've read several places that only about six manufacturers make all the powers and most of the uppers, and I've not seen any issues with them. Depending on what your goal is, lots of barrel options, and that is a BIG factor for weight and probably less predictably, for accuracy.

I have one flat-top upper 'target' setup on the right here with 5-20x scope and heavy barrel, which wouldn't be great for 'grab-and-go' work, due to the high-magnification scope (although it does have a set of backup 45-degree sights on it you can't see in the photo). If I do my part it will hit chicken-eggs reliably at 100 yards.

The ACOG equipped one here will hit 4" gongs at 100 yards very reliably though. It is the bad-things-happening one but is heavy with the BooniePacker extra magazine holder and 80 rounds on board. The 'pistol' laser works well and the piston system seems to run cleaner with the Trek suppressor. I know the light isn't 'mil-spec' but it works reliably and is perfect night-time illumination for sights like the Burris FastFire-II's or this ACOG.

Image

The little lightweight guy is the go-for-a-hike one more likely to tag along on a family hike. Much lighter weight, and good for the 8" gong every time.

The backup sights on the scoped 'target' one aren't the most compact you can get, but when there is a scope on the gun anyway, they really don't pose a bit of inconvenience or noticeable extra bulk. I don't figure a scope as rugged as the ACOG needs backup irons, but on a carry-handle mount the ACOG let's you see through the base and still use your irons anyway...!

Image

The MagPul Rail Sling attachment is useful if you prefer single-point slings or want one as an option. I actually have a couple on my leverguns instead of 'saddle-rings'.

Image
Last edited by AJMD429 on Sun Nov 22, 2015 10:11 am, edited 6 times in total.
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Bill in Oregon
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Re: "Building" an AR

Post by Bill in Oregon »

AJ, you found the heart of the matter asking what my purpose is. I really don't think the AR would ever be used in a tactical role (nor am I trained in any way), yet it would have to function perfectly in that role. I probably really need two rifles: A heavy barreled target rifle with match trigger that will shoot 1/2-inch groups, and a practical rifle that can serve in a chips-are-down scenario. But I can't justify two, so rather than make a compromise that satisfies neither role, I probably need to looks at the tactical tool first, with reliability the top priority. A fine trigger and sub-minute-of-angle accuracy come a distant second.
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AJMD429
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Re: "Building" an AR

Post by AJMD429 »

Bill in Oregon wrote:AJ, you found the heart of the matter asking what my purpose is. I really don't think the AR would ever be used in a tactical role (nor am I trained in any way), yet it would have to function perfectly in that role. I probably really need two rifles: A heavy barreled target rifle with match trigger that will shoot 1/2-inch groups, and a practical rifle that can serve in a chips-are-down scenario. But I can't justify two, so rather than make a compromise that satisfies neither role, I probably need to looks at the tactical tool first, with reliability the top priority. A fine trigger and sub-minute-of-angle accuracy come a distant second.
You can always have two uppers - put the good trigger on your lower and keep the 'urgency' upper on it, and the target one ready to swap out (takes less than a minute).

Eventually I got a couple separate lowers just for convenience (and the kids to inherit), but other than the buttstock, everything else is quickly swappable.
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Rusty
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Re: "Building" an AR

Post by Rusty »

Check the Brownells catalog, they have a big selection.

Geissele and Timney seem to get good marks from a lot of people.
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Malamute
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Re: "Building" an AR

Post by Malamute »

I'd also suggest that a couple of uppers for one lower gives a lot of options and flexibility.

A lightweight barrel can still shoot well if you buy quality. This is a vid of a guy shooting a Daniel Defense 14.5" cold hammer forged lightweight barrel with free float handguard shooting at 700+ yards.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_cIuMw ... e=youtu.be


There are a limited number of forgers making lower receivers, but that doesnt mean they are all finish machined and finished equally. X brand may be "made" by the same forger as Colt or whoever, but that doesnt mean the quality of the finished product is equal. There are some good deals, and some relatively inexpensive products out that have decent reputations for being in spec and working well, but I wouldnt automatically want the cheapest parts I could get without specific recommendations from some hard use users or trainers that have seem them either work well or choke in hard use. This assumes you want the grade of gun thats unquestionably reliable in hard use. Recreational shooter grade guns are not hard to find.

The ALG triggers look interesting. They have two grades, and the price is very good, $66 I believe for the better grade. They arent match triggers, but are in military spec for weight, just in the lower range, and have reliability of stock type triggers. They have crisper cleaner letoffs, partly from polishing, partly from differentially plating the hammer and trigger parts. The company is owned by the wife of the Geiselle trigger guy.
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Warhawk
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Re: "Building" an AR

Post by Warhawk »

Look into the ALG triggers, I have used several of the ALG-ACT triggers and am very happy with them. PSA sells lower parts kits that include the ALG triggers.

This weekend will probably have some of the best prices on AR parts ever. (Black Friday sales)
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AJMD429
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Re: "Building" an AR

Post by AJMD429 »

Warhawk wrote:This weekend will probably have some of the best prices on AR parts ever. (Black Friday sales)
That's why it's "Black" Friday...cuz EBR stuff is fer sale... :D
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Griff
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Re: "Building" an AR

Post by Griff »

AJMD429 wrote:
Warhawk wrote:This weekend will probably have some of the best prices on AR parts ever. (Black Friday sales)
That's why it's "Black" Friday...cuz EBR stuff is fer sale... :D
:lol: :lol:
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MrMurphy
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Re: "Building" an AR

Post by MrMurphy »

The only nonfactory triggers I recommend are Geissele (ALG falls under that umbrella). I use an SSA on my patrol rifle.

You do not "need" a heavy bull barrel, or an HBAR to be accurate. I've seen a 12" LaRue Stealth with a midweight barrel shoot minute of angle at 300m. Both short AND light.

A medium contour barrel is about as heavy as you seriously need to go. 18 or 20" will ballistically, do anything you need to do, the ammo is made for 20" or shorter tubes.

If you're not primarily working around/in vehicles or doing urban combat, nothing particularly wrong with the 20" barrel. I spent my military time working around vehicles AND practicing urban combat/room clearing, so shorter barrels are my "thing". I work out of a Tahoe now not a Humvee but the basics all still apply, I carry a 16" now.

If you're primarily killing paper and only just maybe kind of want it for defense a 20" will certainly do the job. An adjustable stock is more important for shooter fit (one reason why the Canadian C7A1 is set up the way it is) than the shorter barrel. A 1 in 7 or 1 in 8 twist will shoot most everything you want as long as it's 55 grain or heavier.

Good barrel, decent trigger, good rock solid optic mount (LaRue, Daniel Defense, BoBro, and a few others) are what come first for me, making sure the gun was built right (castle nut staked, gas key staked, assembled by someone with a clue and not with parts from 8 different manufacturers) will keep the gun reliable.
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wvfarrier
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Re: "Building" an AR

Post by wvfarrier »

I highly recommend the Spikes battle trigger with JP springs
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