redneck flashlight mount
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redneck flashlight mount
Fellas, looking to attach a flashlight to the tube mag of a Rossi 1892 . Purpose is targeting pest animals at night, legally of course.Light is about 5" long, 1" body, head same diameter, and has one of those remote light switches in the tail. Got tired of researching different ways to do it so I thought what about just going the old duct tape route. Anyone see any problem with this? As the head is same dia as the body I could mount it flush to the tube anywhere. If I put it just forward of the foregrip it doesnt effect balance too much. Also would wrap the bodyin a piece of rubber or something to protect the guns finish and act as a spacer to adjust where its illuminating exactly. No half measures this is a precision operation here
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Re: redneck flashlight mount
A Weaver scope ring will hold the 1" diameter just fine, easy to loosen with that big thumb wheel too. Hardest part will be getting a piece of base fastened. Suppose ya could try duct tape.
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Re: redneck flashlight mount
There are lots of affordable flashlight mounts available.
I'll post links later if I can find them.
But...
I have zip tied more than one flashlight to a pump shotgun or levergun. Works great, easily removed and replaced.
I'll post links later if I can find them.
But...
I have zip tied more than one flashlight to a pump shotgun or levergun. Works great, easily removed and replaced.
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Re: redneck flashlight mount
Thanks would like to see. I know lots of flashlight mounts for 1" scope bodies and rails, 45deg offsets etc, not a lot for hanging off a .6" or so mag tube. Hill people does one dedicated mount, but its about $100. Could also attach a piece of rail directly to the fore-end, but not that motivated.
Re: redneck flashlight mount
Thanks fir the reminder re zip ties too.
Re: redneck flashlight mount
Duct tape after awhile will leave a messy adhesive residue that you will *never* get off.
I concur with the zip tie crowd.
Grab yourself a small chunk of 1" x 1" wood.
Use a pocket knife to run a groove down the middle.
There's your mount.
I concur with the zip tie crowd.
Grab yourself a small chunk of 1" x 1" wood.
Use a pocket knife to run a groove down the middle.
There's your mount.
Re: redneck flashlight mount
I've cut a couple of big rubber bands from an old bicycle inner tube to do the job. These work well, are easy to remove when you don't need the ight, nothing scratched and no adhesive residue to clean off.
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Re: redneck flashlight mount
I don’t remember the title of the thread but I posted about doing that project a few years ago here. I found a scope mount for a Contender pistol and then used a grinder and then a dowel rod with sandpaper on it to shape it to the same radius as the magazine tube. It was already fairly curved because of the way it mounts on a Contender barrel. Then I believe I used JB-Weld or soldered - I forget which was first (I’ve done two that way).
This one was JB-Welded (aluminum base)
Without the light the gun is still sleek and looks fairly normal. I did slim down the tip of the fore-end a bit to clear the mount where it cantilevers to the rear and the finish never took as dark as the rest of the gun. All three of these are what I would call ‘working guns’ so I wasn’t really concerned with conventional appearance or preserving any ‘collectibility’...
This one was soldered (steel base) and has the light on it (same light quickly attaches to either gun).
This was the clamp-in PVC one
The other way I did such a mount was to make a piece of half inch gray PVC pipe into a ‘C’ shape and then countersink some holes inside it so I could put screws through it that would stick out and fasten a short scope base with the nuts facing downward. That can slip over the end of some magazine tubes depending on how they are mounted to the gun, or you could make it to snap on which is what I did; just depends on how wide you make the cut on the tube. If you scalloped the edges or you cut the PVC instead of keeping them straight it would probably make it even easier to snap on and off the gun.
The latter method doesn’t alter the gun and the first two only affect the magazine tube so you can always order a spare magazine tube to do it to and keep the original unaltered.
This thread has pictures of all three of them, and links to their manufacture.
viewtopic.php?p=583183&sid=a1b1a0066497 ... 69#p583183
There are companies that make various sorts of clamps that will work, that kind of look like the clamps a person uses to fasten two posts of chain-link fence dog kennel together at the corners. Basically a bolt going through two ‘W’ shaped pieces of metal. I wanted something that would be fast to take off or put on, and like the security of having two points of attachment for the light by using scope rings. The light I selected was one from a company called Coast and fit 30 mm rings nicely.
The other reason I wanted something with more reproducible attachment was that I might at some point mount a laser instead of a light, although the compact pistol lasers mounted above the barrel like I wound up with make a lot more sense geometrically and ergonomically to me.
Until you have used a combination of having both a laser and a red dot or holographic site at night it’s hard to explain the advantage that the combination has over either alone. Even a 200 or 300 lumen flashlight is enough to see what’s going on, then the red dot or holosight gives you an aiming point, and the laser has the added benefit of helping you distinguish things that may be in between you and the target like branches or other things that will reflect the beam.
I don’t really care if what I wind up with looks ‘authentic’ or ‘conventional’ or ‘tactical’ or whatever... I just want something that works in all lighting conditions, and all weather, when there is a barnyard predator to deal with. The three setups above all work really well. None would be a bad choice if the predator were two-legged, either.
This one was JB-Welded (aluminum base)
Without the light the gun is still sleek and looks fairly normal. I did slim down the tip of the fore-end a bit to clear the mount where it cantilevers to the rear and the finish never took as dark as the rest of the gun. All three of these are what I would call ‘working guns’ so I wasn’t really concerned with conventional appearance or preserving any ‘collectibility’...
This one was soldered (steel base) and has the light on it (same light quickly attaches to either gun).
This was the clamp-in PVC one
The other way I did such a mount was to make a piece of half inch gray PVC pipe into a ‘C’ shape and then countersink some holes inside it so I could put screws through it that would stick out and fasten a short scope base with the nuts facing downward. That can slip over the end of some magazine tubes depending on how they are mounted to the gun, or you could make it to snap on which is what I did; just depends on how wide you make the cut on the tube. If you scalloped the edges or you cut the PVC instead of keeping them straight it would probably make it even easier to snap on and off the gun.
The latter method doesn’t alter the gun and the first two only affect the magazine tube so you can always order a spare magazine tube to do it to and keep the original unaltered.
This thread has pictures of all three of them, and links to their manufacture.
viewtopic.php?p=583183&sid=a1b1a0066497 ... 69#p583183
There are companies that make various sorts of clamps that will work, that kind of look like the clamps a person uses to fasten two posts of chain-link fence dog kennel together at the corners. Basically a bolt going through two ‘W’ shaped pieces of metal. I wanted something that would be fast to take off or put on, and like the security of having two points of attachment for the light by using scope rings. The light I selected was one from a company called Coast and fit 30 mm rings nicely.
The other reason I wanted something with more reproducible attachment was that I might at some point mount a laser instead of a light, although the compact pistol lasers mounted above the barrel like I wound up with make a lot more sense geometrically and ergonomically to me.
Until you have used a combination of having both a laser and a red dot or holographic site at night it’s hard to explain the advantage that the combination has over either alone. Even a 200 or 300 lumen flashlight is enough to see what’s going on, then the red dot or holosight gives you an aiming point, and the laser has the added benefit of helping you distinguish things that may be in between you and the target like branches or other things that will reflect the beam.
I don’t really care if what I wind up with looks ‘authentic’ or ‘conventional’ or ‘tactical’ or whatever... I just want something that works in all lighting conditions, and all weather, when there is a barnyard predator to deal with. The three setups above all work really well. None would be a bad choice if the predator were two-legged, either.
Last edited by AJMD429 on Mon Dec 28, 2020 11:39 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Re: redneck flashlight mount
When I read the OP I immediately thought of you Doc....
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Re: redneck flashlight mount
I'm not a fan of mounting to the mag tubes if it's a Rossi 92. The only thing that holds the tube on the carbines is the notches for the barrel band screws and the screw through the mag plug.
This one require inletting the forewood, epoxy and screws.
This one require inletting the forewood, epoxy and screws.
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Steve's Guns aka "Rossi 92 Specialists"
205 Antler lane
Lampasas, Texas 76550
http://www.stevesgunz.com
Email; steve@stevesgunz.com
Tel: 512-564-1015
Re: redneck flashlight mount
Not sure if pic posted steve? could be my computer
Re: redneck flashlight mount
No, it's not you, picture was there yesterday.
If you would, imagine a short length of picatinny rail screwed on the front right end of the front stock.
If you would, imagine a short length of picatinny rail screwed on the front right end of the front stock.
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Re: redneck flashlight mount
Yeah, especially for those folks who may not want to ‘alter an original gun’ irreversibly, all you have to do is get an extra forend and use a wood rasp and a file to flatten a place to attach a chunk of Picatinny rail with screws, bolts, and/or epoxy, and then you can attach pretty much anything you want. Just replace the forend with the original if you want to sell the gun as a ‘non-tactical original’...
All kidding aside, projects like this and the ones I call my ‘Night Scout’ leverguns (see links above) are good reasons that they sell Rossi leverguns...it may be a criminal offense to ‘butcher’ a real Winchester (of whatever definition) for such a thing, but nobody will shun you for taking a rasp and drill and epoxy to a Rossi...! And IMHO you can wind up with a VERY practical ‘farmstead’ gun...
My 45 Colt ‘Night Scout’ made from the 16” Rossi ‘Trapper’ cline is THE go-to gun to grab if the chickens are squawking or the goats hollering at three a.m. for sure. Next would be the Marlin in 357 but the light wobbles a bit and annoys me. My threaded-suppressable 357 isn’t made up to ‘Night Scout’ specs yet, but may be soon.
Doctors for Sensible Gun Laws
"first do no harm" - gun control LAWS lead to far more deaths than 'easy access' ever could.
Want REAL change? . . . . . "Boortz/Nugent in 2012 . . . ! "
"first do no harm" - gun control LAWS lead to far more deaths than 'easy access' ever could.
Want REAL change? . . . . . "Boortz/Nugent in 2012 . . . ! "
Re: redneck flashlight mount
Thanks Doc. Rednecking a side fore-end mount might not be a bad idea. I dont think the weight of a 4oz light taped to a mag tube will bother a Rossi mag too much, its more if it gets bumped, snagged or dropped etc.
Re: redneck flashlight mount
years ago I used a clamp/bracket piece from a clamp light to attach a flashlight to a gun. the clamp light I'm talking about is the thing that we always used to use for working on cars - you know with the aluminum light cover and the plastic coated wire clamp - also kind of like is used to incubate chicks or something.
anyways, on those lights, there is a clamp bracket thing with usually a wingnut or something. one end of it goes around the base of the light socket, and the other end goes around this round ball on the wire clamp which allows the light to be positioned at any angle. and then the wingnut in the middle clamps it all together.
I had a couple of those lights, and one of them was sized just right to attach the light I had to the barrel of the gun I was using - which at this point I don't even remember what gun it was. I remember thinking at the time that it worked pretty well though, and requires no modifications to the gun.
anyways, on those lights, there is a clamp bracket thing with usually a wingnut or something. one end of it goes around the base of the light socket, and the other end goes around this round ball on the wire clamp which allows the light to be positioned at any angle. and then the wingnut in the middle clamps it all together.
I had a couple of those lights, and one of them was sized just right to attach the light I had to the barrel of the gun I was using - which at this point I don't even remember what gun it was. I remember thinking at the time that it worked pretty well though, and requires no modifications to the gun.
Re: redneck flashlight mount
Were talking redneck here. A couple of hose clamps. Find them with rubber inserts if you want fancy.
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"Go low, go slow and preferably in the dark" The old Sarge (he was maybe 24.
"Freedom is never more that a generation from extinction" Ronald Reagan
"Every man should have at least one good rifle and know how to use it" Dad