My 336

[flb]

Have had this 336 for many years and walked a lot of timber with it. 150 gr. Hornady, 34grs of H-335, 4 shots 3 bucks. Going to try the 130gr Speer and use my 340 for Antelope next year(if I draw). All good. Love the ole 30-30.

[Old Savage]

A classic picture.

[TedH]

Except he didn't get his slippers in the picture.

[woods-walker]

Nice Rifle.....I am using the Speer 130 fn bullets myself, over W748 powder for Whitetails here in Kentucky with good results....

[flb]

I am anxious to try the 130 grs so glad to hear it works well. The ones in the pic I cast myself, Lee 150 gr FN with gas check over 25 grs H-335. Just loaded them up so haven't been to the range yet with them. Cast bullets have that old classic feel and look that I like so much. Just a note on the rifle, I hollowed out a good sized hole and put in 2 extra rounds plus matches and firestarter. Hope I never need it but it's there.

[mescalero1]

So, how do you like that fiber optic front sight, does it obscure the target?

[Mutt]

Now that is a great picture. Good looking rifle and I like the the knife as well as the scabbard . Even rug or throw is fine to look at............... You're doing alright............................Mutt

[Jaguarundi]

Nice setup.Love the woodgrain figure in the butt stock !

[flb]

I'm 66 yrs old so the eyes are getting a little weaker and the fiber optic front sight combined with the Lyman receiver sight keeps me in the game out to about 150yds. Since I like hunting timber it works for me. I did refinish the stock and forearm, took off all the white line stuff and added the Kickeeze pad mostly for non slip. I also stripped it down and polished all the moving parts and worked the action filled with a light rubbing compound. It is pretty slick, I was careful not to change any angles or remove actual metal, just polish. Have done the same thing to my 340 in 30-30 but it has a Nikon 2 X 7 on it. Glass bedded the action, refinished the stock etc. I will use mostly the 130 grs Speers in that one. I firelapped both barrels some. Keeps me outa the bars.

[awp101]

Good looking rifle! Is it a 336A? It reminds me of the one my Old Man has and IIRC it's an A.

[flb]

Got me, think it was made in the mid 80's according to what I read. Always had the walnut stock that is on it and a buckhorn rear sight if I remember right. Will have to do some more research on that. I bought it used in late 80's and put the peep sight on the next day then added the front sight just 2 years ago when the eyes got weaker.

[WCF3030]

If you get in close there is not a whole lot that you can't take with that set-up.
Nice pic.

[Dave]

Nice gun

[rjohns94]

very nice picture, thanks for sharing

[Rodfac]

I've got some experience in the Hi-Power target game and here's my take on refinishing a stock. Per the CMP guidelines and several other equally reliable sources: linseed oil, boiled or plain, tung oil are nice for the wood but don't do much for waterproofing it. If you need it weather proof, use a polyurethane. I like the hand rubbed variety because I can control the amount of shine left in the finish when you're done. You need to spend at least as much time on the inside of the stock as the exterior. Of all the areas to be treated, the end grain may be the most important because it absorbs moisture much faster than the flat grain. That means under the butt plate and all (ALL) the end grain areas of the inletted action and barrel channel.
The inletted areas, as they don't show, can be done with Tru-oil or some similar varnish based finish. A couple of coats should do it. On the exterior areas, hand rubbed poly as made by Minwax does a good job and will fill the pores, and if rubbed down with one of the nylon based sanding scrubs, you can retain the flat finish so prized in the hunting fields. Here I use three coats, minimum, then heavily waxed with Johnson's floor wax; the kind you'd expect to find in a bowling alley.
Once the finish is done this way or for that matter any other way, use only that finish to restore it when heavy use demands. IE: use tung oil on a tung oil finish, Linseed oil on linseed oil, and hand rubbed poly to restore a poly finish.
Before dropping the action back into your newly finished stock and fore end, apply a heavy coat of johnson's wax to the metal work. Like your car, it'll protect the metal from a thorough drenching if you're out a week or two and can't strip it down. Pulling an action out of the stock, WILL change your impact points, sometimes by quite a bit... The above finishing technique was used by the USMC teams when they still shot blued steel and wood rifles.
My only objection to a poly finish is the shine. If you want to dull it down, and I do; then use fine #000 steel wool or it's nylon equivalent. HTH's Rodfac