OT Saddle Care???

[Rusty]

I have a saddle that is need of some care. Its not dry rotted that I can tell but is in definite need of some type of oil. My question is what do I use? Thanks in advance.

Rusty<><

[zack coyote]

I may get arguments on this, but oil is oil. That came from an old saddle maker who made saddles for me. Olive oil is good. Saddle soap is good, so is neatsfoot oil. Make sure the saddle is clean, everywhere you can reach, so you're not oiling the dirt. Use a lot of oil, it will dry in time. Check everything for cracks, especially the cinch (new ones are cheap), and the stirrup leathers. Good luck

[kimwcook]

That question is just about like asking what's the best caliber to buy. You're going to get a number of different responses. I'd first take some saddle soap and clean the leather real well. Don't use to much water and let your leather completely dry. Then use what ever quality leather oil you'd like. A lot of folks like neatsfoot oil, but make sure you use pure neatsfoot oil. Most neatsfoot oil being sold today isn't pure. It has any number of additives in it. There's a product out there called Saddle Butter and it's good stuff.

http://www.lostbuckaroo.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RH1

Depending on how dry your leather is you still might need to use some oil prior to the butter.

Skidmore's leather cream is good stuff. Look here:

http://shootingstar.montana.com/gear2.htm

Plus, there's some information on how to care for your leather and what to use.

Jeff Morrow's the one who built my saddle.

[BigSky56]

I use a product called, Leather New, some oils will rot the stitching. danny

[C. Cash]

I've used Lexol with pretty good results on my two Ozark saddles. It's what many folks in the leather business recommend but I'm sure there's a good number of other treatments out there.

[pokey]

[quote="kimwcook"]That question is just about like asking what's the best caliber to buy. You're going to get a number of different responses. I'd first take some saddle soap and clean the leather real well. Don't use to much water and let your leather completely dry. Then use what ever quality leather oil you'd like. A lot of folks like neatsfoot oil, but make sure you use pure neatsfoot oil. Most neatsfoot oil being sold today isn't pure. It has any number of additives in it. There's a product out there called Saddle Butter and it's good stuff.

http://www.lostbuckaroo.com/proddetail.asp?prod=RH1

Depending on how dry your leather is you still might need to use some oil prior to the butter.

Skidmore's leather cream is good stuff. Look here:

http://shootingstar.montana.com/gear2.htm

Plus, there's some information on how to care for your leather and what to use.


best answer so far.

[ornery]

I've been building and repairing saddles for many years. All of the advice given is good. What we use in my shop depends on the condition of the leather and its' original quality. If the leather has the surface quality of "alligatoring" or cracking you have big issues. If not...are the seat jockeys curling? Most shaping problems can be solved with water, pieces of wood and clamping. As to restoration....dusty? Lots of high pressure air. Black gooey oily dirt? Choose your cleaner, grab a toothbrush and get busy. Work top down with a bottle of cleaner in one hand and a spray bottle of PURE water to rinse with. Now I don't like giving away my secrets so if you PM me I'll tell you what I use in my shop. It has taken 20 years to come up with a combo for cleaning and oiling that suits me, so you'll have to forgive me if I don't post it openly...

Again, I don't think you've received any bad advice here. Warm the saddle in the sun, slowly. Warm the oil. Apply with a piece of trimmed sheepskin. Other materials can leave stroke marks. After applying oil, count to 12 YEAH 12if oil is absorbed fully you may re-apply a second time until you reach the point where it doesn't absorb fully. At that point wipe away excess and continue.

Oil selection depends on leather "life". We have found that location of cut or type of leather,(belly, shoulder, etc.)is a key factor in which type of oil to use. Extra Virgin Olive or PURE neatsfoot oils. Conditioners? Blackrock. Ray Holes products are first rate. His "Saddle Butter" is not an "every circumstance " product. Depends, here again' on the leathers "body" and "texture".

Clean first, oil second, condition with Blackrock last, buff with trimmed sheepskin.

Hope this helps...be well, Ornery

http://www.wildbill-tp.com
http://www.theoutfitranch.com

[jeepnik]

Though I've never used it on a saddle, all of my leather get treated with Redwing Boot Oil. Hides scuffs nicely, and darkens the leather just a bit, the way I like it. You might try it, or any other product for that matter on a small section that isn't readily visible.

[winchester1886]

Might as well add my penny's worth to some already good advice, I just wipe my saddles over with a clean damp cloth, but if yours is real dirty you may have to use saddle soap or some other good leather cleaner, before you oil the saddle make sure it is dry dry dry.................. you don't want moisture in the leather.
Olive oil is probably the best oil to use is very good for leather (and your skin) doesn't smell and isn't sticky, never knew this until I had my first Slick Fork made, but when the saddle makers make the saddles out of undyed natural leather they stick them out in the Sun and they get a tan just like we do,then most of them give the saddle a coat of Olive Oil, but don't over do it, give it one coat and then wait a week or two or three and if it feels nice and soft and pliable that's enough, if it stills feels a bit tough and dry give it another coat.
On your fenders and stirrup leathers and seat jockey's because you can get at both sides don't give both sides a coat of oil, because they will end up a different colour to the leather that only gets one coat, and don't put any of these new man made sealers or lacquers or anything like that on cause leather is a living breathing thing just like you and they will block up the pores and stop oil getting in and the leather will dry out underneath, and last but not least the best thing for your saddle is to ride it, keeps em good and soft, so get that ole cayuse and get that saddle on him and then as the song says ........................ " I steps on him an raises the blind get out the way boy he's gonna run wild ".......................... Nothing like the outside of a horse for the inside of a man, good luck.

[Don McDowell]

Neats foot oil is my favorite. Lexoil is pretty good, and Ballistol is good not only in the bore of your rifle, but also does a fair job of keeping leather in good shape.

[BenT]

I use neatsfoot oil to bring the leather back to being suple . Let dry a few days. Finish with blackrock. If you get caught riding in the rain, water will bead up on the blackrock finish and run off.

[JerryB]

Rusty, most all of these folks got you in the right directionto keep it in good shape. Just set it out in that hot Florida sun for an hour before you star oiling it.

[gimdandy]

I think maybe the EXPERT has answered your question. With deckers , sawbucks and riding saddles I've got 17 saddles and I'm listening to the expert. NEVER oil or saddle soap a cinch..............it'll never quit strechin

[jeepnik]

then as the song says ........................ " I steps on him an raises the blind get out the way boy he's gonna run wild ".......................... Nothing like the outside of a horse for the inside of a man, good luck.

My oh my, another Strawberry Roan fan. Marty sang some great western songs, didn't he?

[Sixgun]

I HAD some advice until I read Ornery's advice. Thats professional experience talking. While I like Lexol, Ornery says the condition of the leather requires different measures to be taken. I'm learning somethin' new today.--Thanks Ornery! --------------------Sixgun

[Hillbilly]

I have a saddle apart on the bench right now. Saddle soap and neatsfoot oil.

If you want to ride this saddle and dont care to really take it apart.. send it to a saddle shop...have then pop the saddle strings and clean everyting underneath and check the rigging ... especially wear it's screwed to the tree.

It sucks to spend money on latigos and cinchas then have a rigging plate you couldnt see break loose and auger your head into the ground.

~J

[kimwcook]

Been there done that, other than it was the halfbreed latigo that let go. And, luckily I did a side flop rather than an auger.

[Don McDowell]

If you want to ride this saddle and dont care to really take it apart.. send it to a saddle shop...have then pop the saddle strings and clean everyting underneath and check the rigging ... especially wear it's screwed to the tree.

It sucks to spend money on latigos and cinchas then have a rigging plate you couldnt see break loose and auger your head into the ground.

~J

Saddle shops are like gunsmiths There's the saddle shops that have a sewing machine and some tandy leather craft kits, and then there's honest to god saddle shops, just like there's gunparts changers, and gunsmiths, what you get back after you took something in might not be what you thought it would be.

[rangerider7]

I'll add my pennies worth. I have dealt in old leather for 40 years. I have tried all kinds of oil and have ruined a many an old saddle or gun leather using it. I have found that saddle soap works best on old leather. Try that first. If you are not satisfied go with the oil that these guys recommend. Take your time and try small areas first and with as little oil as needed.

[Hillbilly]

Don is right about that... When I lived in Michigan the nearest "real" saddle maker was about 80 miles away... an Arizona man stuck in the Piney woods of North Central Michigan.

A good shop that can do repairs is hard to find even down here in Oklahoma...I fiddle with it... and have a guy I can haul all the "extra parts" to in a ziplock bag when I get over my head.

~J

[Mutt]

I always clean very good with saddle soap . Then use a small paint brush or one of the foam counter parts and a product called Viscol. It dosen't leave any stain or residue after 24 hr drying time. Then it will shine real fine , plus it also water proofs , for a long time. I also used Viscol on work boots . My feet stay dry in minor amounts of water , till it's time to re- do . It contains silicone along with other ingredients . I've always had great luck with it. Ol' Time hardware stores plus feed stores , usually carry it.

Might even find it on the net today.

Mutt