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I see the ads for the Wild West guns 1894 triggers, but they look so similar (in the picture) to the regular factory trigger, that I wonder - are they just a bit larger and with smoother or better angled engaging surfaces, or what? Are they all that much better than a careful stoning one could do at home? Granted, you start spending much time doing 'do it yourself' projects, and the money becomes worth it to just buy the product if it is a good one, but inquiring do-it-yourselfers want to know....
What about the $87.99 WWG triggers...?
Any of you guys have them in your Marlins...?
Do they enhance accuracy, or just 'feel' better by being less floppy when the gun isn't cocked...?
A precision EDM sear and trigger that is hand-polished to produce a crisp, clean 2 to 3 lb trigger on Marlin 336, 444, 1894 and 1895 rifles. Design eliminates the infamous Marlin trigger flop. Gunsmith fitting required.
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The Wild West trigger is a good unit. The big deal is that unlike the factory trigger and sear, which is a loose fit of two parts on the same pin, leading to "wandering" reset and the infamous Marlin "trigger bite", the Wild West trigger/sear is a spring-loaded affair on a bearing. It still goes in the same, with the pin through the middle, but it ALWAYS resets properly, so yer far less likely to impale a finger on it when ya close the lever. The sear is laser cut and will likely result in a crisper trigger than ya have. You WILL end up diddling with the trigger safety/return spring tension to get is set at some level you like (I like em at 3# or a shade less), but that's about it.
AJMD,
Having had four Marlin 1894s of my own, and having shot a fair number of other peoples Marlins I've come to the conclusion that the problems associated with the factory triggers are a non issue with normal use.
I've never seen, nor experienced the infamous Marlin "trigger bite" that adirondakjack alluded to and I suspect it's more of a problem for cas shooters due to their rapid firing of the rifles than others.
Personally I'd just as soon have a competent gunsmith (if you can find one) work over the factory trigger than buy an aftermarket one.
Just My Way Of Thinking
Joe
***Be sneaky, get closer, bust the cap on him when you can put the ball where it counts .***
i suppose I'm "lucky"...but the trigger in my 1894C is wonderful...right straight out of the box! i purchased the rifle brand new from a Big 5 Sporting goods store so as far as i know, it's the standard factory trigger. while it does have the 'play' in it, it is nothing i cannot live without and does not affect form or function...
i have yet to get the infamous "Marlin finger". like was said, i think that applies more to those who participate in the CAS than to us who use the rifle under normal field conditions.
if you think you're influencial, try telling someone else's dog what to do---will rogers
I have a couple sitting around waiting......you are more than welcome to borrow one to see if you like it. If you like it, merely leave it in and order me another. If you think it sucks, take it out and send it back to me. I have one on my 1895CB and it is as good or better than any trigger I have owned, including the single action trigger pull on my very best S&Ws.....just PM me if you are interested, Doc....
The Rotten Fruit Always Hits The Ground First
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Blaine's offer is a smoking deal. If my 1894 Cowboy didn't already have a nice trigger I'd be cuttin in line for it. Sounds like a win-win deal to me .
Joe
***Be sneaky, get closer, bust the cap on him when you can put the ball where it counts .***
I should have added, my "best" CAS rifle has one, while I can't quite bring myself to pay the $$ for another for the backup rifle They work well. Working on a Marlin last night, I cycled it vigorously, and yep, managed to pinch and nearly hole my trigger finger. That one has a stock trigger..... I got spoiled by the Wild West setup I guess...
I have a WW trigger in my .444 Marlin ..... very nice. When I received the trigger I also stoned the daylights out of every contacting surface that moved, contacted, and/or rubbed together. Very Nice trigger release, and the overall cycling action is much improved and quite smooth.
I have also done the complete stoning routine of 2 Marlin 375's and a Marlin .44 Magnum. All 3 likewise got "the total stone works" of every moving/sliding/rubbing surface and all 3 are now very very smooth. The .44 Magnum trigger was horrible out of the box, and really nice afterward, the owner was quite surprised at the difference.
SO, after all the stoning, is the WW .444 trigger better than the non-WW trigger of the others ?? Subjectively, it's kinda hard to tell, but I have no regrets installing the WW trigger. Has accuracy been improved ?? Uh, that assumes I'm a good shot, with consistent ammunition, etc etc. What I can be sure of is that smooth & consistent trigger pull will certainly contribute to better accuracy.
But best of all: no gunsmith fitting required for the WW trigger. After a bit of coaching and encouragement from some Marlin owners, I discovered that installing the WW trigger is the proverbial piece of cake.
I bought a 1911 trigger jig some years back to do a 1911 that I bought, it's a Marvel unit. I have been able to modify it by putting the pins and roller on the opposite side and have done a number of lever action sears and single shots. I don't hunt and I set all my triggers at 2-2.5 lbs. Most triggers are not rocket science. With a good arkansas stone and a means to firmly hold a sear or hammer in position getting a good trigger is not that difficult.
retmech wrote:With a good arkansas stone and a means to firmly hold a sear or hammer in position getting a good trigger is not that difficult.
Cool...
A "How To" thread with pics would be a really cool Christmas present to post for your fellow Levergunners...
USE A MAGNIFIER, and LOTS OF LIGHT, a square stone, a dead flat (steel?) work surface, and very carefully take a couple swipes off the sear, absolutely certain to respect and preserve the ANGLE of engagement. Generally, ya don't wanna get into the notch itself on the hammer, but you can take a few swipes (again square to the hammer) off the hammer itself, while it is laying flat on the dead flat surface, using the edge of a dead square stone. You'l reduce engagement a tiny bit, and slick up the edge where the sear and hammer engage so it is straight. Ya want two "chisel blades" that "snap" off each other when ya trip the shot, not two mangled spoons dragging and crunching as ya try and get em apart. DO NOT mess with angles nor reduce the hammer notch more than say 10%. Ya don't wanna create a hair trigger.
There is a gun shop in Germany, which sells this tuning kit. The springs are said to be weaker thus reducing the pull weight. Supposedly the kit is imported from the US. Anyone tried somthing like that?
Pete
Winchester model 88 .308 WCF
Winchester model 71 .348 WCF
Old Shatterhand wrote:There is a gun shop in Germany, which sells this tuning kit. The springs are said to be weaker thus reducing the pull weight. Supposedly the kit is imported from the US. Anyone tried somthing like that?
Pete
There is a popular kit sold in the US. it includes a stainless steel firing pin, reduced power mainspring and reduced power lever catch spring. It doesn't include a replacement safety spring. I sell lots of em, as do others. They are essential to a "race" marlin, as they allow much lighter hammer throw. You can't reduce the mainspring much without getting rid of the two piece firing pin.
.***
They work well. Working on a Marlin last night, I cycled it vigorously, and yep, managed to pinch and nearly hole my trigger finger. That one has a stock trigger..... I got spoiled by the Wild West setup I guess...
