Lead Solvent

kmittleman · Post by **kmittleman** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 4:49 pm

Hi fellas,

I just noticed that I've been getting a bunch of leading in the 1st inch or so from the chamber of my Ruger SBH. I've tried Hoppes #9 but it seems to take forever to get it off. Any suggestions?

-Kevin

Blaine · Post by **Blaine** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 4:58 pm

A half/half mix of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide eats lead. Flush with water to stop reaction.

Pisgah · Post by **Pisgah** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 5:20 pm

Get a copper kitchen scrubber -- Chore Boy is one brand. Many will warn to be sure it's really copper, but the cheaper steel ones are safe, too, as the steel used in them is far softer than barrel steel. Clip off a small bunch of coild\s, wrap the material in to a worn bronze bore brush. Scrub the bore. Lead gone.

Marvin S · Post by **Marvin S** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 5:25 pm

Get a copper chore boy pot scrubber the chore boy brand it should be copper you can check with a magnet. Wrap a few strands around a bore brush. It will scrub it out.

Sixgun · Post by **Sixgun** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 5:39 pm

Shoot some jacketed rounds and that will clear it up. While your waiting to do that, buy a Lewis lead removal tool, available about anywhere where shooting supplies are sold.----------Sixgun

Don McDowell · Post by **Don McDowell** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 6:23 pm

Nothing works any better than puregum spirits of turpentine soaked flannel patches on a jag. Push a wet patch thru the bore, then follow with a dry, and repeat until the leads gone. It won't take very many unless you've waited to long to and have some real severe buildup.

eric65 · Post by **eric65** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 6:53 pm

Won't carb cleaner or brake cleaner work also?

yooper2 · Post by **yooper2** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 7:03 pm

+1 on the Chore-boy method. Cleans 'em up in no time.

Eric

kimwcook · Post by **kimwcook** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 7:24 pm

I second the Lewis lead remover. It's not that expensive and it works great. Goobered up my Colt SAA's shooting some different loads through it and it wiped out the lead in a hurry. And, it's easy.

KirkD · Post by **KirkD** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 7:43 pm

Pisgah wrote:Get a copper kitchen scrubber -- Chore Boy is one brand. Many will warn to be sure it's really copper, but the cheaper steel ones are safe, too, as the steel used in them is far softer than barrel steel. Clip off a small bunch of coild\s, wrap the material in to a worn bronze bore brush. Scrub the bore. Lead gone.

I like that method. I've been using extra fine steel wool, but the problem is moving it back and forth in the bore. That worn brush idea is a good one.

Don McDowell · Post by **Don McDowell** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 7:47 pm

You guys try that turpentine, you'll wonder why you ever attacked the bore with those abrasives.

hightime · Post by **hightime** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 8:55 pm

A timely post for me Too.

Owen

KirkD · Post by **KirkD** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 9:03 pm

Don McDowell wrote: You guys try that turpentine, you'll wonder why you ever attacked the bore with those abrasives.

By gum. If Don McDowell things turpentine works, I think I'd better get some to try.

Old Ranger · Post by **Old Ranger** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 9:51 pm

I'm with Don here as well. That will take the lead out really well. A second choice is Kroil. It does a good job of lifting the lead too. Depending on what is in reach I use either for my "lead mining"!

I don't use abrasives in my bores...

Wade

Don McDowell · Post by **Don McDowell** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:19 pm

Kirk if you use one of the carbon rods from tipton, it's like using a graphite fishing pole, you'll feel that turpentined patch grab at each and every spot it finds lead.
As Old Ranger said,Kroil is good to, but you need to go after it to remove it from the bore or the first shot down the tube will replace all the lead you just removed in spades...

Post by **Chuck 100 yd** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:24 pm

I am going to try turpentine also. I have been using the
Chorboy method with great success but I am always willing to try another method.
It should do a fair to good job of cleaning the bore of powder fouling at the same time. Yes , No??

Don McDowell · Post by **Don McDowell** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:36 pm

Chuck yes it does a pretty fair job of cleaning the gunk out of the bore as well. I had it bring lead out of a bore I thought was clean and pure.

Post by **Chuck 100 yd** » Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:52 pm

Thanks!! I will get some in the next few days.
I really like the smell too. Just like fresh cut cedar fills the shop with an odor that is fresh and clean. I used to take an old broken cedar arrow shaft and snap it in two just to get that smell. Almost as good as smelling a fresh fired shotgun shell.

I am out of here. Top Shot is on in 10 min.

Borregos · Post by **Borregos** » Wed Apr 04, 2012 6:06 am

KirkD wrote:
Don McDowell wrote: You guys try that turpentine, you'll wonder why you ever attacked the bore with those abrasives.
By gum. If Don McDowell things turpentine works, I think I'd better get some to try.

+1 Think I will get some on the way back from the range today

bdhold · Post by **bdhold** » Wed Apr 04, 2012 8:00 am

lead water pipes from 1st century Rome are still in use.

Rub.

JB · Post by JB » Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:47 am

As other have pointed out, the Lewis Lead Remover works great. You can also wrap an old worn brush in bronze wool to scrub out lead. Another old but dangerous method is to use mercury to remove lead. It works, but mercury is highly poisonous.

mikld · Post by **mikld** » Wed Apr 04, 2012 9:56 am

BlaineG wrote:A half/half mix of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide eats lead. Flush with water to stop reaction.

Yep this works, but be careful about how long you leave this mix in a bore. I plugged a barrel and poured some peroxide/vinegar in and forgot about it. Seems that after it ate the lead, the mix pitted the barrel (.44H Dan Wesson). I left it in the barrel for a few hours too long. I'd say apply with a patch, wait a few minutes, then some dry patches to check progress, repeat if necessary...

Besides the good info above; chore boy, Lewis L.R., etc. I found Kroil will "seep" under lead deposits (or however it works) and allow for easy removal with a tight patch.

jackruff · Post by **jackruff** » Wed Apr 04, 2012 10:06 am

Chuck 100 yd wrote:Thanks!! I will get some in the next few days.
I really like the smell too. Just like fresh cut cedar fills the shop with an odor that is fresh and clean. I used to take an old broken cedar arrow shaft and snap it in two just to get that smell. Almost as good as smelling a fresh fired shotgun shell.

:

I agree on the smell, and that's enough reason to try it. But I have to say the Chore Boy method does work. I've using Ballistol, and it smells good, too.

Ranch Dog · Post by **Ranch Dog** » Wed Apr 04, 2012 4:36 pm

I've cleaned up my share of lead and I prefer turpentine and mineral spirits for the dirty work. I use a quality gun oil when I'm finished.

hightime · Post by **hightime** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 8:03 am

So..........I seem to have a problem in my 45 Colt, 1873 Uberti with lead. The good news is that I'm now sure it's lead. I had a tight spot near the rear sight. I will get at the clean up today with one or two of these suggestions. I have been useing Hoppes #9 and a brass brush. It's taking forever. I must be on two or three hundred patches. In the past I did not use the brush and when the patches looked clean I quit. There must be a lot of lead in this gun. I can't see it, but it keeps comming out.
My question is why so much lead? I might have shot fifty round of loose fit cast bullets through it before I slugged it at .451 dia. Is that it? Or is it that I have never got it clean and it builds up worse because of that? I now shoot .454 and .455 RN and 100 rds. of Jacketed .452's. The lube?
The bullets I bought had a red lube, on mine I use thr RCBS lube and on many rounds of Rem .455 rn there is that dirty looking tumble lube.
I'm thinking it's because I shot it with the lead build up and it keeps getting worse. Maybe if I can get it clean this time, use the tighter bullets and good lube, my troubles will be over. Do you think the same?

Owen

Don McDowell · Post by **Don McDowell** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 8:08 am

yes leading begets leading. If you have a hunk of lead in there from what ever reason, it will only grow and prosper with each following shot. The oft recommended shoot jacketed bullets to clean the lead out only aggrevates the problem as about all that does is iron the lead further and harder into the lands.

Old Ranger · Post by **Old Ranger** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:28 am

Folks, Don is on the money here. I can't remember how many folks I've heard saying that shooting a jacketed round or two will clear a leaded barrel. That, as Don stated so well, will only press the lead further into the bore. It is a "wives tale" and not a real remedy to remove lead. Get that turpentine going and brush it out with a proper fitting bronze brush. If you see grey on your patch after your 'regular cleaning', you've still got lead in there. Better get busy with the proper stuff and get it gone.

claybob86 · Post by **claybob86** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 10:34 am

Don McDowell wrote:The oft recommended shoot jacketed bullets to clean the lead out only aggrevates the problem as about all that does is iron the lead further and harder into the lands.

I agree with you. However, George Nonte, in his book "Pistolsmithing" says to fire jacketed bullets loaded backwards to remove lead. Never tried it and probably won't, but it makes more sense than just shooting jacketed bullets normally.

Don McDowell · Post by **Don McDowell** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 12:15 pm

I'm not even convinced that running a bullet backwards would do it. If you stop and think about it for something to scrape the lead out of a barrel it would have to be harder than the lead, have some way of supporting the scraping edge, and if something were that hard it would have to be pre conformed with the rifling, else wise the rifling would probably not fair so well, or the whole thing would be a barrel obstruction and you'll find yourself with a handful of hot flying shrapnel.

claybob86 · Post by **claybob86** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 12:27 pm

Don McDowell wrote:... you'll find yourself with a handful of hot flying shrapnel.

In which case the leading would no longer be an issue!

Don McDowell · Post by **Don McDowell** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 12:30 pm

very true.

KirkD · Post by **KirkD** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 3:05 pm

Picked up a can of turpentine this afternoon!

Alan Wood · Post by **Alan Wood** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:23 pm

I am looking forward to the reports of those who try the turpentine here. My 94ae in 44 magnum seems to have leaded up pretty bad.

Mescalero · Post by **Mescalero** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:40 pm

Has not done a thing for me.

jackruff · Post by **jackruff** » Thu Apr 05, 2012 10:59 pm

Alan Wood wrote:I am looking forward to the reports of those who try the turpentine here. My 94ae in 44 magnum seems to have leaded up pretty bad.

I used turpentine tonight to clean my Super Blackhawk. It worked okay I suppose, but no better than Ballistol. It's still the Chore Boy wrapped around the brass brush that gets the lead out. I don't think these liquids that have been discussed dissolve lead; they just penetrate under it and help to loosen it so the mechanical device can push it out. If I remember any of the high school chemistry I taught years ago, lead is a metal and just isn't soluble in anything except perhaps an acid solution. Anything that would actually dissolve lead would potentially damage the barrel.

hightime · Post by **hightime** » Fri Apr 06, 2012 8:12 am

I couln't find a copper scrubber at the store yesterday. I went back to Hoppes #9 solvent patches and brass brush. On and on she went. Lead on patches steady all day long. Dark patches after every cycle. Is that about as fast as it will come out? Will the Chore Girl speed this process up?
I must have had a lot of lead. The slug is pushing though much smoother now.

Owen

Old Ranger · Post by **Old Ranger** » Fri Apr 06, 2012 9:14 am

The use of pure gum spirts of turpentine or Kroil is where the liquid will creep UNDER the lead in the bore and in effect, raise it up and float the metal on a film of the liquid used. Then it is easily removed by passes of absorbant material and taken away from the metal and out the muzzle. Of course it won't dissolve the lead. Metal used in firearms have pores that allow minute amounts of lead and fouling to enter. Then add the striations cut in the bore from the rifiling process, and you have more porous locations in the metal. Further lead particles entering the metal goes into these spots. Once this action takes place it becomes like a mini-magnet for lead. Attracting further lead to that location and building up with every shot. Now ponder this for a moment...Using a tool that scrapes the surface of the bore removing the lead on th surface of the bore will give it a clean look. But the minute lead particles are still in the pores of the metal waiting for more lead to skim over it and will grab a little more each time a round is fired...With the use of a simple liquid that causes the lead, even in the pores, to rise for removal, the weapon is just that much cleaner for your next shooting session....In short, the less lead you start out with means less lead you end up with at the end of your shooting session. If you have trace amounts of lead already in the bore, it will attract more lead at a faster rate than a truly clean bore. So I remove all traces of lead from my bore with the above mentioned liquids and render my bore as clean as possible for the next shooting session rather than scrub out the top surface and get further leading at an accelerated pace. Some of you will think I'm all wet, and that's ok. We all have opinions on what is the best for this and that. That is what makes us individuals and things interesting. For myself, I am more than satisfied with the results I get from this method. If others wish to scrub their bores, doesn't bother me a bit and I wish them success in their efforts.

Wade

Don McDowell · Post by **Don McDowell** » Fri Apr 06, 2012 12:43 pm

I darn sure don't want to be around anything that will dissolve lead.
Turpentine works and works quite well but you need to use a jag on your cleaning rod, the slotted tips that are just feel good things like a bore snake don't clean bores anyway, they do make you feel good....

Blaine · Post by **Blaine** » Fri Apr 06, 2012 12:54 pm

If there is pitting after you use vinegar/hydrogen peroxide, it's because there were little pits filled with lead before you started

A fella could get that on him and it won't do a thing.

hightime · Post by **hightime** » Fri Apr 06, 2012 5:01 pm

Thanks for the info. But tell me this, if by swabs are comming out dark grey, is that about all the faster lead will come out?

Boy my gun was leaded bad. 300 dirty swabs so far and still going.

Owen

Mescalero · Post by **Mescalero** » Fri Apr 06, 2012 5:17 pm

I know hightime...............it is a sad state of affairs.

Don McDowell · Post by **Don McDowell** » Fri Apr 06, 2012 5:52 pm

If your pushing patches thru the bore on a jag, you should be getting slivers of lead on the patch.

jackruff · Post by **jackruff** » Fri Apr 06, 2012 6:17 pm

Don McDowell wrote:If your pushing patches thru the bore on a jag, you should be getting slivers of lead on the patch.

Yep. They'll be bright and shiny little slivers and flakes.

DixieBoy · Post by **DixieBoy** » Fri Apr 06, 2012 8:00 pm

I hear ya', about that endless scrubbing with Hoppe's # 9 and a brush, to get leading out. I used to do that too. And yes, you can get into the hundreds of patches and not have the bore really cleaned of lead.

The tips these guys are giving us about the Turpentine and Kroils are on the money. Those things work. I haven't tried Blaine's concoction of vinegar/hydrogen peroxide, but might give that a try just for grins. Don's and old ranger are right about the previously noted liquids "getting under" the lead. That's what they do.

Here's something I'll suggest that worked for me in my Ruger Blackhawk in .45 Colt. Granted, my velocities are usually right around 1000 fps, not rifle velocities, but still, it reduced overall leading greatly. This method will reduce leading even when you haven't matched up the bullet hardness and velocity perfectly, and do get some leading - it will be much less, and much easier to remove.

What I'm talking about is polishing the bore. My Blackhawk had a huge throat constriction just up from the forcing cone, so I firelapped it first. In talking with Marshall Stanton at Beartooth Bullets (where there is a wealth of information on shooting cast bullets) he STRONGLY recommended that I polish the bore with something like JB Bore Paste after I'd finished the firelapping.

If a barrel has major pitting you may still have to clean out of the barrel after every session, but for a barrel that has minimal pits, what you're doing when you polish the bore (especially after firelapping) is greatly reduce or eliminate the maching marks in the bore from when the barrel was made. Maching marks, or tool marks as they're sometimes called, are great lead accumulators. If you can reduce or eliminate them you're going to have much less to deal with when it's time to clean the old sixgun or rifle. Hope this helps. - DixieBoy

hightime · Post by **hightime** » Fri Apr 06, 2012 9:30 pm

Thanks, I stole this thred buy, it was right on for me. I'm working on a 1873 Uberti. I can't push a jag through from the breach. Another 100 patches tonight and I think I'm there. I hope to lick this thing tomorrow and get back to developing a good load.

Owen

jeepnik · Post by **jeepnik** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 10:03 am

If it's really bad, the previously mentioned Lewis Lead Remover. For general use, Shooter Choice Lead solvent. Their copper solvent is good too.

DixieBoy · Post by **DixieBoy** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 10:09 am

Owen - Now that you've learned all this good stuff about removing leading I wouldn't feel too bad about having gone through the Hoppes # 9 routine, and all of those patches.

After running all of those hundreds of patches through the bore you will be STRONG, LIKE BEAR !

- DixieBoy

Marvin S · Post by **Marvin S** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 11:51 am

For those that are worried about wearing their bore with a copper scrub pad I assume you are using some sort of guide with the methods that require so many passes with a cleaning rod. The scrub pad wont wear the bore anymore than the Lewis lead remover.

KirkD · Post by **KirkD** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 12:35 pm

hightime wrote:Boy my gun was leaded bad. 300 dirty swabs so far and still going.

Now THAT is awesome!

If you are getting more than a few pounds of lead out of your bore, then something else is going on.

hightime · Post by **hightime** » Sat Apr 07, 2012 5:31 pm

I was worried about the bumps of the rod on the barrel, so I slid a plastic gas line from a small engine over the rod.
I finally got all the listed cure items mentioned above and will get at it tonight.

Owen