1873 Winchester information

[shiloh505]

After years of wanting one I finally acquired an 1873. It is .32 WCF and made in 1891 based on serial number. I'm looking for some information from those that know a lot more than I do.
1. Is .32 WCF the same as .32-20?
2. When I work the action the bolt comes back, dust cover slides back and loading block rises to the chamber. However, as I return the lever and the bolt goes forward the hammer falls to half cock. Any thoughts on what could be causing that?
3. The metal finish is brown, mottled and pitted in spots. Would this rifle have been blued originally?
Thank you for your advice.

[J Miller]

shiloh505,
Congrats on the Winchester. I had one many years ago when I was a teenager. It was fun but I didn't keep it. I was a dummy then.
Joe

After years of wanting one I finally acquired an 1873. It is .32 WCF and made in 1891 based on serial number. I'm looking for some information from those that know a lot more than I do.
1. Is .32 WCF the same as .32-20?
Yes, the 32-20 is the current name for the 32 W.C.F.
2. When I work the action the bolt comes back, dust cover slides back and loading block rises to the chamber. However, as I return the lever and the bolt goes forward the hammer falls to half cock. Any thoughts on what could be causing that?
Very possibly the sear or the hammer notch or both are worn or damaged. Only by disassembly and inspection can you tell for sure. It could also be really dirty.
3. The metal finish is brown, mottled and pitted in spots. Would this rifle have been blued originally?
A lot of them had the receivers and a few other parts color case hardened with the remainder blued.
Thank you for your advice.

[KirkD]

Congratulations on acquiring a classic historical rifle. The 32 WCF later became known as the 32-20 so, yes, they are the same caliber. An old gunsmith in Montreal who died last year at the age of 94, used to work a lot of the '73s back in the 1940's. He loved the '73 and said they would last forever, but you would have to build up the worn sear on the trigger assembly. I've done only one. Just a bit of weld to replace the worn down sear and a bit of diamond filing, and you are back in business. Before you do that, however, check the full cock notch on the hammer to make sure it has not broken off. The '73s are easy to work on. Your rifle was almost certainly to have been blued at that time in history. A brown patina is standard for a well used but honest rifle. Enjoy its history. Below are some diagrams to help with the disassembly and reassembly of your '73.

[Pete44ru]

After years of wanting one I finally acquired an 1873. It is .32 WCF and made in 1891 based on serial number.
I'm looking for some information from those that know a lot more than I do.

We're looking for some pics of thet puppy, Pardner ....................................


.

[M. M. Wright]

Just so you'll know, it is OK to replace or fix broken or worn parts but any changes to the finish/patina of an antique firearm will definitely lower its value. An original 73 Winchester in any condition is a collectable piece. Even cleaning the finish can detract from the value. I have a '92 in 32 WCF, (32-20) that was made in 1892 but has been refinished so it's only value is as a shooter.

[KirkD]

Just so you'll know, it is OK to replace or fix broken or worn parts but any changes to the finish/patina of an antique firearm will definitely lower its value. An original 73 Winchester in any condition is a collectable piece. Even cleaning the finish can detract from the value. I have a '92 in 32 WCF, (32-20) that was made in 1892 but has been refinished so it's only value is as a shooter.

Absolutely right. Repairing the sear is perfectly fine, but do not touch the exterior.

[JerryB]

When you get it in safe shooting shape Kirk is the man that can help you work up some good safe loads for your rifle. He has been a big help in getting mine shooting good.

[Nate Kiowa Jones]

kirkD,
It's usually not a worn sear notch. The problem is usually up and down wear on the firing pin, the receiver and the breech block. What happens is over time these part get loose and as the back end of the firing pin comes back to push the hammer back the loose fitting firing pin instead of pushing straight back it tends to ride up over the top of the hammer some. This upward slack gets so bad the hammer never gets pushed to full cock.
If there was an easy way to tighten all these wear point up again that of course would be the best fix. I've seen where some folks add some metal to the top of the hammer. The problem with that is it usually looks bad.
My fix is to just take a tad off the trigger nose. In other words lower the trigger nose just enough so it can catch the sear notch. This is a fairly common problem with the old 92's as well.

BTW, Welcome aboard Shiloh505

[shiloh505]

Gentlemen, thank you for the information. I tried unsuccessfully to upload pictures. I really appreciate all the information provided.

[Little Doc]

check this first. the frame behind the carrier where the bolt slides is worn and letting the bolt tilt. I have a 73 in 38-40 that had the problem you describe. without a ctg when closing the bolt it would let the extractor fall into the chamber. (badly worn) I thought I needed to do some of the fixes described above but determined the wear is in this part of the frame and the frame is very thin here and the wear will let the bolt tilt down when closed and up at the rear when the lever is lowered. I had a qualified welder braze the worn area. then filed the braze to fit the bolt so it would pass thru. this made my gun like new in this area. consider giving this a try or take it to a good smith and have this checked. this is if your trigger sear and hammer notches are in good shape. good luck
m

[Nate Kiowa Jones]

check this first. the frame behind the carrier where the bolt slides is worn and letting the bolt tilt. I have a 73 in 38-40 that had the problem you describe. without a ctg when closing the bolt it would let the extractor fall into the chamber. (badly worn) I thought I needed to do some of the fixes described above but determined the wear is in this part of the frame and the frame is very thin here and the wear will let the bolt tilt down when closed and up at the rear when the lever is lowered. I had a qualified welder braze the worn area. then filed the braze to fit the bolt so it would pass thru. this made my gun like new in this area. consider giving this a try or take it to a good smith and have this checked. this is if your trigger sear and hammer notches are in good shape. good luck
m

Sounds like what you are describing is the area of the receiver there where the breech block comes into the carrier well or cut-out. That wall is thin and if it wears down the breech block will sag allowing the extractor to actually start into the chamber rather than the extractor cut. it combined with wear at the rear where the firing pin comes back can cause the hammer to follow.
My fix for that is to add metal to the bottom of the breech block to compensate for the frame wear. Much easier to do.