AR-15 build question. Quality/Company run down?

[2ndovc]

There was a post awhile back that a couple guys gave their opinions on the various AR manufacturers and I couldn't find it.
Now that prices are returning to "somewhat reasonable" I'd like to build a couple AR's for the fun of it. Plans so far are for a 9mm for my lovely wife and a varmint style rifle for myself. I have a Colt Sporter Lightweight
and would like a 20" HBAR for fun. After that I really want a '60s style SP1 for my military collection.

And why are all these companies still making those stupid stepped down barrels? Anyone really need the grenade launcher option?

Thanks Guys!

jb

[AJMD429]

And why are all these companies still making those stupid stepped down barrels? Anyone really need the grenade launcher option?

Colt used to sell a "Target Sporter" version that used that very barrel, with the only other change being a ground-off bayonet lug...

As far as a 'company run down', there was a post I think on AR-15.com that went into the details of the various 'lower' manufacturers, and it turned out that almost ALL the lowers are made by about four companies, then marked/labeled for those vendors/retailers (at least as of when the article was written about five years ago). That was enlightening.

I bought one foreign-named lower that needed some hand-filing for stuff like the bolt-lock to fit, but I used it for a Zel bolt-action upper in 338 Lapua, so it didn't need to be precise in those dimensions, as long as it held tight to the upper, and held the trigger-group in place.

Personally, I find CMMG and Bushmaster and DPMS and Colt to all be quite well made, precise, and strong. However, it's like "Reloading Equipment" - most of us try a brand, like it (nearly all of them are good), and then become a strong advocate for that brand, or rarely, get burned by one item, and tell everyone to stay away from that brand forever.

The 18" 0.960" or whatever short/fat barrels seem to ME to be ideal, as they are short enough to not be as heavy as their diameter would otherwise cause, but stiff enough to be very accurate. If using a short/carbine gas system, consider an adjustable gas block, heavier spring or buffer, or even an exposed 'piston' system that vents excess gas, just for less wear, but honestly that may only matter if you are a very high-volume shooter.

Twist rates are debated, but just get the twist that suits the bullet weight you primarily want to use.

I currently have my AR set up with a 16" mid-weight barrel and carry-handle upper with iron old-school sights and suppressor, kept in the safe for urgent varmint duty (we live on a farm), plus these alternative uppers:

• a 18" fat barrel and scoped flat-top upper in 223 for more precise target shooting
  a 20" 'bull' barrel that I dislike, as it is a 'Clinton-era' with compensator and way too LOUD (but accurate)
  a 16" barrel (trying out several, actually) in 300 AAC Blackout, and suppressor (fun, but ? practical ?)
  a 16" barrel in 50 Beowulf (even MORE fun - think semiauto 45-70 in a carbine-sized gun)
  and the other lower with the 338 Lapua bolt-action upper (fun as well, but expensive to shoot)

So, as you can see, there is quite a variety of things and formats you can set up in the AR platform.

[Panzercat]

Palmento State Armory is generally well regarded for piecing together ARs.

[Mich Hunter]

Palmento State Armory is generally well regarded for piecing together ARs.

Most of PSA items to include receivers and barrels are made by FN

[fordwannabe]

Doc, I am looking to build either a 50 beowolf or 458 socom upper for one of my AR's. How do you like your's? Whose parts? Thanks. Tom

[Mich Hunter]

And why are all these companies still making those stupid stepped down barrels? Anyone really need the grenade launcher option?

Colt used to sell a "Target Sporter" version that used that very barrel, with the only other change being a ground-off bayonet lug...

As far as a 'company run down', there was a post I think on AR-15.com that went into the details of the various 'lower' manufacturers, and it turned out that almost ALL the lowers are made by about four companies, then marked/labeled for those vendors/retailers (at least as of when the article was written about five years ago). That was enlightening.

I bought one foreign-named lower that needed some hand-filing for stuff like the bolt-lock to fit, but I used it for a Zel bolt-action upper in 338 Lapua, so it didn't need to be precise in those dimensions, as long as it held tight to the upper, and held the trigger-group in place.

Personally, I find CMMG and Bushmaster and DPMS and Colt to all be quite well made, precise, and strong. However, it's like "Reloading Equipment" - most of us try a brand, like it (nearly all of them are good), and then become a strong advocate for that brand, or rarely, get burned by one item, and tell everyone to stay away from that brand forever.

The 18" 0.960" or whatever short/fat barrels seem to ME to be ideal, as they are short enough to not be as heavy as their diameter would otherwise cause, but stiff enough to be very accurate. If using a short/carbine gas system, consider an adjustable gas block, heavier spring or buffer, or even an exposed 'piston' system that vents excess gas, just for less wear, but honestly that may only matter if you are a very high-volume shooter.

Twist rates are debated, but just get the twist that suits the bullet weight you primarily want to use.

I currently have my AR set up with a 16" mid-weight barrel and carry-handle upper with iron old-school sights and suppressor, kept in the safe for urgent varmint duty (we live on a farm), plus these alternative uppers:

• a 18" fat barrel and scoped flat-top upper in 223 for more precise target shooting
  a 20" 'bull' barrel that I dislike, as it is a 'Clinton-era' with compensator and way too LOUD (but accurate)
  a 16" barrel (trying out several, actually) in 300 AAC Blackout, and suppressor (fun, but ? practical ?)
  a 20" barrel in 50 Beowulf (even MORE fun - think semiauto 45-70 in a carbine-sized gun)
  and the other lower with the 338 Lapua bolt-action upper (fun as well, but expensive to shoot)

So, as you can see, there is quite a variety of things and formats you can set up in the AR platform.

You can build a quality AR cheaper than buying one retail. Like another gentlemen stated, 99% of the major AR parts are made by by the same couple companies. Many times over, you are just paying for the name brand on the side of the receiver. This includes companies like Noveske. I have seen guys drop $2K plus on a Noveske then thumb their nose at one of mine because it has Aero precision marked on it. Funny thing is Aero precision makes Noveske lowers and are 1/8 cheaper. Don't be fooled.

[shooter]

I built one from Palmetto State Armory shortly before the Sandy Hook fiasco. Built it the way I wanted it, mil spec receivers, M-16 bolt and bolt carrier group, chrome lined barrel, and Magpul furniture. I got my lower from Spikes tactical, and the rest from PSA. I was out less than $750 when all said and done. I could have doubled my money at the minimum 2 months after I built it, but it took me long enough to actually break down and get one that I will never part with it while I'm alive. I'm not a black rifle guy, but they are practical and come in handy when you need them.

I would definitely recommend PSA for an economical good quality build. At the gun shows around here they are selling a bunch of stripped lowers for anywhere from $69-$89 depending on the brand.

[2ndovc]

Thanks Guys!

I picked up one Stag arms receiver so far for $90 and will be buying several more of various MFGs as I have the $.

What about Anderson? There are quite a number of them on Gunbroker.


Doc,
The .50 Beowolf is on the list as well. I've been wanting one of those for some time.

jb

[fordwannabe]

I bought an Anderson lower for the rifle I just got done with and all parts went together very nicely. My upper is also Anderson so the fit is spot on(no wigglies). I put a rock river lower parts kit in it with an LMT bolt(at the suggestion of 7.62 precision who was a MAJOR HELP WITH INFO ON WHO MAKES GOOD STUFF). I am having a short stroke issue,(gas system) but the receivers went together well.Good luck. Tom

[veeman]

I have only owned 1 AR, a SW M&P Sport. This model does not have the assist button or dust cover. I have never had any trouble whatsoever. For most shooters I cant see the need for forward assists or dust covers, not like Illinois is a desert. It helped knowing that I might have made the upper reciever, as I run the forge press that makes them. We make multiple different uppers and lowers.

[AJMD429]

Doc, I am looking to build either a 50 beowolf or 458 socom upper for one of my AR's. How do you like your's? Whose parts? Thanks. Tom

To be honest, I just bought the 50 Beowulf from Cabela's as a complete upper (I just corrected my post above; realized the upper is 16" not 20"). It has functioned flawlessly, and makes REALLY BIG HOLES in whatever it is pointed at. Some have reported 2" groups at 100 yards, and I'll bet mine would come close, but I've always just had a red-dot (holosight) on it, as I think of it as a 'charging-wild-hog' gun. Out to 200 yards it's "easy" to hit with, and if you know your range, it will still thump something hard out to 300 yards or more. http://alexanderarms.com/images/pdfs/beowulf_ballistics.pdf

I looked at the 458 SoCom, but found the Beowulf first, and I couldn't see an advantage to stepping down to the 458, 'cuz I wanted to shoot big heavy bullets. I don't think the 450 Bushmaster was around when I was looking, but again, I wanted to be able to make the biggest holes with the heaviest bullets (I'm still a kid ). All three are 2,400 ft-lb cartridges. (I'm hoping to try 27-28 grains of Lil'Gun under a 500 grainer; supposed to give about 1400 fps from a 16" barrel... )

[Griff]

Just watch that your components are all of the same "spec". My son decided on a new stock for his Colt Competition... So I "appropriated" his old one for my 16" Windham Weaponry... WRONG. My buffer tube was "mil-spec", and his stock was "commercial spec". New tube on my gun and all was well again. There are few of those anomalies, but... can they be aggravating!

[Les Staley]

Check Copes Distributing for blemished Anderson arms stripped lowers..bought them a. couple months ago for $42 each..built one up for my son with a Model 1 sales complete kit (carbine) for about $500. I've built and shot five or six kits from Model 1 and never had a bit of trouble..YMMV..Les

[piller]

I have a DPMS that I bought complete about 7 years ago. I like most of it, but the trigger group is the worst part of it. My son's Stag Arms lower and trigger group is much better. The trigger group. I can't really tell a difference in the lower receiver, but the trigger group is very good on the Stag Arms. As far as the barrel, get a chrome lined one. The ones that aren't are much harder to clean. I have only shot mine about 3,000 rounds, but the trigger now feels as if it is ready to be replaced at any time. That will happen soon. You also need to consider the recoil spring and buffer. The recoil spring can be had in a range of poundage resistance weights, and the buffer comes in a couple of lengths and weights. These can be changed very easily, but if you use heavier rounds such as the .50 Beowulf most of the time, you can tune the system to work best with that cartridge while still cycling the 5.56, but the 5.56 may cycle slower or need the gas block changed to give more backward thrust. Fortunately, there are gas blocks available for just such a setup. I honestly am not a big fan of the AR style rifle, but there is no way to argue that it is a versatile platform which can be worked on by almost anyone and that the modular components are accurate. What probably turned me off of them was the fact that the M16, not even an A1, that I was assigned in basic training bumped me in the nose every time I pulled the trigger if I was where I could see the sights. The A2 had a longer stock and that problem was solved, but the memory of the bump every time is still there. Don't use the fixed stock unless it fits you and there will not be anyone else ever shooting your gun that you build. If anyone else, kids or grandkids, will ever shoot it, be sure to have the adjustable stock.